Shopsmith Forums

McGill was the manufacturer of the original switch in my Mark V. I thought - just maybe - this came back from the Arizona distributor for McGill parts.
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I checked with McGill and we don’t show this part # in the system. McGill seems to be getting out of the Switch business.

Doug Miller
Miller Electrical Sales
3208 N 16th Street
Phoenix, Arizona 85016

Phone: 602-240-5050
Cell: 602-570-9346
Fax: 602-240-5044

From: Richard Wagner [mailto:dustywoodworker@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 11:01 AM
To: mesinc1@qwest.net
Subject: Searching for a Source

I am seeking a source for some switches that have the following markings. I can not locate this switch in the McGill online catalog.

0811-1129 ON-OFF MEXICO
20A 277VAC 1 1/2
HP 125-250 VAC
16A 277VAC 1 1/2
HP 125-250 VAC

Any help that you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

Yesterday, I received the replacement switch that Bill Mayo is offering for sale - thanks Bill! It installed nicely and works like a charm. This particular switch is a SPDT but fits and works just fine.

I have also ordered a switch from the Ace Hardware store in NY. It should be here sometime next week. That particular switch is supposed to be a more close match to the original SS power switch. Will let you all know once I get it.

I don't know about anyone else but getting the switch out of the SS headstock can be a bloody and painful event. I don't have big hands but find myself scratched up every time I go in their to work on the switch. So, I took a piece of scrap angle aluminum and cut two prongs on the end of it that match the width and shape of the plastic clips on the side of the switch. I also angled the aluminum so it fits nicely into the area just above the switch. This allows me to simply press down with the aluminum to release the plastic clips. No more scrapes and fighting with the switch - it just pops out now without any damage to the plastic clips at all. Will take a picture later this morning and post it in this thread.

drmcroberts wrote:Yesterday, I received the replacement switch that Bill Mayo is offering for sale - thanks Bill! It installed nicely and works like a charm. This particular switch is a SPDT but fits and works just fine.

I have also ordered a switch from the Ace Hardware store in NY. It should be here sometime next week. That particular switch is supposed to be a more close match to the original SS power switch. Will let you all know once I get it.

I don't know about anyone else but getting the switch out of the SS headstock can be a bloody and painful event. I don't have big hands but find myself scratched up every time I go in their to work on the switch. So, I took a piece of scrap angle aluminum and cut two prongs on the end of it that match the width and shape of the plastic clips on the side of the switch. I also angled the aluminum so it fits nicely into the area just above the switch. This allows me to simply press down with the aluminum to release the plastic clips. No more scrapes and fighting with the switch - it just pops out now without any damage to the plastic clips at all. Will take a picture later this morning and post it in this thread.

Good show. You should probably patent that. There is a large number of potential customers. We probably all have gained a few scratches trying to remove that switch.

Picked up an ACE PN 3135878 'rocker switch' yesterday. I also picked up an ACE PN 33492 'toggle switch(non-metallic). The pix below show a SS switch and the two ace switches. The 'toggle switch' is of interest because the switch portion can be attached to a SS actuator. The 'toggle switch' is SPST. Ace PN 33493 is a DPDT, BUT is center off(3 position). I did not get one of those to determine WHAT makes it a center off.

The original SS switch is a 'McGill'. The Ace 3135878 is an EATON. The Ace 33492 is a Carling. The switch portion clamps onto the actuator the same on all three switches. The hole mounting of the SS and Ace 3135878 are identical.

The SS switch is on the left, the Ace 3135878 in the middle and the Ace 33492 is on the right in all pix.

[ATTACH]4669[/ATTACH]

This shows the differences in the actuator portion. The removable 'key' is different.

[ATTACH]4670[/ATTACH]

This again shows the differences in the actuators from the side.

[ATTACH]4671[/ATTACH]

This shows the guts of the switches. The contact arms(copper colored) of the SS and Ace 33492 appear identical. The Ace 3135878 appears more substantial and the contact button(s) are larger(implies greater capacity/life).

The actuators(inside that move the contact arms) although different will function interchangeably.

The rear termination is different on all three. The SS has 3/16" tabs, the Ace 3135878 has 1/4" tabs and the Ace 33492 has scew terminals.

SO; What does all this mean?
A) The switch portion of any of the three can be put on any of the other actuators. This AIN'T easy. Some would say IMPOSSIBLE! Requires extreme patience(try/try/try/try/ again and again). These parts just sit in position until you try to assemble them, then any sudden motion causes them to 'get out' of their assigned location! After putting one back together do NOT force anything(during assembly OR after). Take it back apart and start over!

B) Because of A, an option for a bad SS switch would be to replace only the electrical switch portion and continue to use the SS actuator. Termination needs to also be 'solved'. See C for white wiring directions.

C) The Ace 3135878 could be used on a 115V SS by tieing the neutral(white) wires together and connecting the other two wires to the new switch(again termination needs to be solved).

Looking at carling website http://toggle-switches.carlingtech.com/ ... ch__54.asp it appears they are very much in business! They do NOT make a 'safety actuator'!

When I ordered the Ace 3135878 last week the 'distribution center' had 10 in stock. After I ordered it, it had 9 in stock. I do NOT know the stock status of the acehardware http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(x55qq ... urer=34929

They refer to it as a RACO part?????

One last 'difference'. The SS switch is dust proofed with a membrane between the actuator and the switch. The 33492 has HOLES in the back which would NEED to be PLUGGED!!

Thanks JPG40504 for the excellant pictures of the switches. I received a few of the Ace Hardware switches and will use them after sealing the switch holes with sealer material. Sawdust can make a switch stop working over time.

I remove the quill housing first as it is in the way of removing the "C" headstock safety switch. Then putting pressure on top of the switch on the outside, Inside the headstock, I press down on the one of the switch upper holding arms until I feel it letting that corner start out of the headstock. Then press down on the other holding arm. I may have to do this several times until the teeth on the holding arms are are no longer inside the headstock. Then keeping pressure on the switch outside, I do the same for the bottom 2 holding arms. It normally takes me about 5 sec to remove the "C" headstock safety switch.

I am interested in the removal tool as there is always more than one way to accomplish a task (skin a cat). I would think a "U" shaped tool could hold down all 4 arms for quick removal. I will add that to my list of projects to play with.

drmcroberts wrote:Yesterday, I received the replacement switch that Bill Mayo is offering for sale - thanks Bill! It installed nicely and works like a charm. This particular switch is a SPDT but fits and works just fine.

I have also ordered a switch from the Ace Hardware store in NY. It should be here sometime next week. That particular switch is supposed to be a more close match to the original SS power switch. Will let you all know once I get it.

I don't know about anyone else but getting the switch out of the SS headstock can be a bloody and painful event. I don't have big hands but find myself scratched up every time I go in their to work on the switch. So, I took a piece of scrap angle aluminum and cut two prongs on the end of it that match the width and shape of the plastic clips on the side of the switch. I also angled the aluminum so it fits nicely into the area just above the switch. This allows me to simply press down with the aluminum to release the plastic clips. No more scrapes and fighting with the switch - it just pops out now without any damage to the plastic clips at all. Will take a picture later this morning and post it in this thread.

Today I received an email from Shopsmith Customer Service with the following message:

"The switches finally came in and yours shipped today via 1st class mail. I am so sorry that it took this long and appreciate your patience.
Thank you".

Wow, after not so patiently waiting since December of 2008, my order is finally being filled. It is coming 1st class mail so I should have it in a few days. I will be very interested to see who the manufacturer is and whether the switch will be a DPST model like the original.

Interestingly, I also received an email from Mouser.com that my order for a Solid State Relay also shipped today and is due here on 6/12. It is a 40A model from Optek.

My plan is to build a little bracket for the SSR and let it do the heavy switching of the motor current. Once all of this takes place I will post some pictures of my setup.

Has anyone else received emails regarding any back orders being shipped from SS?

If this occurred with the previous owner it may be that he had an under voltage condition either from the power company or through internal shop/house wiring.

In the case of under voltage, current runs higher to get the same work. The formula for power is V*I=P where v is the voltage and I is the current. From this you can see that as voltage goes down current must go up to achieve the same power. This could result in overheating the switch and motor. If the switch were the weak link that would result in the switches burning up.

If this is the case (as I suspect it may be) then as long as you have a good 115vac +/- 10% at your tool you probably wont have the problem. Keep in mind this is voltage under load at the tool cord, not the wall socket. This can be measured at the duplex box the tool is plugged into while the tool is running. Just measure in the other outlet, since they both share the wiring at that point the voltage read will be the same as that to the tools power cord.

Mike