Restoration Progress On My 1952 ER10

johnmccrossen · Post by **johnmccrossen** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 1:15 am

Mickyd, You might be able to come up with or make a clamping split collar bored just a little larger than the shaft size. Something like that might then work with your slide hammer and heat. Also a split collar clamped tight on the shaft might give you something to pry against. Last resort, split it with a hacksaw and have it rewelded if you can't come up with another hub. Good luck, I know you will get it soon. John McCrossen

eartigas · Post by **eartigas** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 7:01 am

I tackled a similar problem with repeated heating - cooling cycles. They seemed to break the bond. Before I tried all you did with no success.

Good luck with the "big gun" otherwise : ))

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 12:20 pm

eartigas wrote:I tackled a similar problem with repeated heating - cooling cycles. They seemed to break the bond. Before I tried all you did with no success.

Good luck with the "big gun" otherwise : ))

The "big guns" did the trick removing the frozen feed lever knob. Mechanical advantage sure does wonders. The 3/8-16 x 9" Hex Cap Screws suggested by jpg did the trick without the need for heat.

[ATTACH]5036[/ATTACH]
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Didn't spin off easy though as you can tell by the resulting straightness of the top bolt. There was nothing remarkable looking once the feed lever knob was finally off other that the rust residue. The knob is just such a tight fit and a deep bore that any extra material in the ID binds it up.

[ATTACH]5035[/ATTACH]
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This rusty beast is going to fight me all the way. I thought the last item disassembly issue was going to be the feed lever knob but NNNNNOOOO!! Now I have to fight with the last remaining collar that frozen solid. This one shouldn't be a big deal. Sprayed it with "Kroil" last night and this morning so I'll check it tonight.

[ATTACH]5034[/ATTACH]

eartigas · Post by **eartigas** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 2:34 pm

You may now say EUREKA!

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 7:14 pm

JPG40504 wrote:#4?:rolleyes: Do you have any 3/8-16 bolts about 6-8" long? put one ...........
BTW How long are the quill handle shafts, and what is the diameter of the ball?

Quill handle knob is 1.240". Knob and shaft overall dimension is 6-1/2".

In your "BTW", you mention shafts . Mine has only one.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 8:59 pm

mickyd wrote:Quill handle knob is 1.240". Knob and shaft overall dimension is 6-1/2".

In your "BTW", you mention shafts . Mine has only one.

Use your imagination! There ARE three threaded holes! 'NORMAL' drill presses usually have three handles on the quill advance 'knob'.

I asked because I recently purchased a 3 handle/knob 'set' "built to SS Specifications" which do NOT look the same as pix of 'original' issue. Your reply has confirmed my suspicions that there is some luncheon meat in that 'description'.

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Wed Jun 17, 2009 12:23 am

JPG40504 wrote:Use your imagination! There ARE three threaded holes! 'NORMAL' drill presses usually have three handles on the quill advance 'knob'.

I asked because I recently purchased a 3 handle/knob 'set' "built to SS Specifications" which do NOT look the same as pix of 'original' issue. Your reply has confirmed my suspicions that there is some luncheon meat in that 'description'.

Since there are 2 quill knobs, each with three threaded holes, I'm imagining 6 quill handles / knobs. Wow!!

Original ER10 design was one handle, part #102-5, 102-6. [ATTACH]5040[/ATTACH]

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Wed Jun 17, 2009 1:44 am

The problem with putting three handles on the knob is, in certain configurations they are really in the way. They would hit the table, the sanding disc, etc. Would this be true on a Mark V as well?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Jun 17, 2009 2:07 am

heathicus wrote:The problem with putting three handles on the knob is, in certain configurations they are really in the way. They would hit the table, the sanding disc, etc. Would this be true on a Mark V as well?

Not when in Vertical Drill Press mode. The Mark 5/V has three depressions in both quill advance shafts. The handle/lever has a hub and it can be loosened and moved from depression to depression without taking it completely out. The Mark 5/V Drill Press Hub/Handles(3) uses one of the handles as like the single handle hub thus it does NOT include the set screw. That is one feature(as well as the new style(shaped) lever handles) of it that I do not like. That is why I also have a 10ER quill hub and handleS. A bushing is needed to adapt the 3/4" bore of the 10ER hub to fit the 5/8" Mark 5/V shaft.

You would not use the 3 handled hub when NOT in vertical drill mode. Depending on the setup, It may be used when in horizontal boring mode.

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Wed Jun 17, 2009 12:39 pm

I have one of the 3 handle units for the Mark V but only use it in drill press mode since it is in the way for almost everything else. I changed the handle that locks it in place with one I had. The new 3 handle knobs were all black. I used a red knob one on the locking handle so I don't have to look to see which one to loosen. They are alike except for color.

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