Shopsmith Forums

Yeah for sure.

I bought a gallon jug that is really helped with the reuse of the Evapo-Rust.

This evening, I learned alot about Quill Washers.

This info to be asked about and shared later.

Here's some progress pictures.

The First Quill spring was easy.
This one (Someone has been messing with.
It is tightly coiled on the outer Diameter.
So I knew better that to try to extract it from its Home.
These are going in a Evapo-rust bath.
I turned down a piece of Bronze to press the spring back in the housing.
Before press Picture.
After press picture
I had some Matte Deep Gray and its a No go.
This is another gray I had for my Milling machine.

This is what the color I am going to paint it.

A little more Progress.

I bought 2 Sticks of PVC .

I got this idea from 2 members of this group.

I cut them to leave a few inches for liquid for Evapo Rust.
I run with the ball with this idea.
I made 4 Tubes for keeping up with the Order of Stuff.
I used another members idea about pulling this out of the tube.
Thanks /You know who this idea came from.

First tube reveal after Evapo-Rust since yesterday .

This is lower Support (back) tube.

Almost looks like New.
End of tube picture.

Okay now I will start the Next lower tube.

Front support tube ( before ) pictures.
It just got drop in the juice tonight.

Bottom side of tube. (Before)
Inside of worst end of this tube (Before) Picture.

I think I will let this one soak for 2 Days.

A little more Progress.

Cleaned this shaft and prepped for Blacken-ing
And some late night shots of the 2nd Clean tube.
This is the End that was (So) real Rusty. and now
Now this is a before of the 3rd Tube in line for a bath.

This one is not bad / Especially after seeing what Evapo /Can Do For You.
Before and I will let that soak overnight.

Then update soon.

I think these spot will be okay.

Sorry, I'm kind of slow on this comment.

I use Rust-oleum Charcoal Gray paint for my Model 10E and 10ER restorations. I find it close to the original paint color used on them. For me it is a little too glossy for the Model 10's, so I use a Rust-oleum Matte Clear Coat. I haven't used the Rust-oleum Charcoal Gray on a Mark V or any STP so far. For the one Gray Mark V (1982) I restored I used the Shopsmith Gray and have also used it for touch-ups. Painting an entire gray Mark V, it should look close to original for the color.

It looks like you are coming along very well in your restoration. I will enjoy seeing it when finished.

chapmanruss wrote: ↑Fri Oct 25, 2024 11:09 am Sorry, I'm kind of slow on this comment.

I use Rust-oleum Charcoal Gray paint for my Model 10E and 10ER restorations. I find it close to the original paint color used on them. For me it is a little too glossy for the Model 10's, so I use a Rust-oleum Matte Clear Coat. I haven't used the Rust-oleum Charcoal Gray on a Mark V or any STP so far. For the one Gray Mark V (1982) I restored I used the Shopsmith Gray and have also used it for touch-ups. Painting an entire gray Mark V, it should look close to original for the color.

It looks like you are coming along very well in your restoration. I will enjoy seeing it when finished.

Thanks for the encouragement.

I had this paint on hand to paint a Bridgeport machine I am retrofitting.

I may use your idea about the matte clear coat.
It does have a shine.

A little more progress.

I Re-Blackened this side of the shaft.
I am using a paint filter to filter the Evapo-Rust before being poured into the next tube.

This is the only spots that didn't clean up with Tube Bath.
I worked them with a fine Stone and got it smooth and it's in for another Bath.
I got these little baskets off Amo zon to use for small parts.

These are the Quill related washers.
Which I will ask questions about later.


This is the Gallon jug I bought for Evapo-rust baths.

It has really been working with this project so far.
This is the front way tube (before) picture .
The evapo-rust is doing a Great job at cleaning the inside up as well.


This is a Before picture of the worst of the rust on this Front way tube

For small parts, I just used zip ties reversed so I could easily remove them and put them in the rust remover. Then I just grabbed the end of the zip tie to pull them out.

AllenH wrote: ↑Mon Oct 28, 2024 5:07 pm For small parts, I just used zip ties reversed so I could easily remove them and put them in the rust remover. Then I just grabbed the end of the zip tie to pull them out.

Great Idea.

I will use that.