PowerPro Woes...

[neal560sl]

I still say I would lean on them pretty hard for a new replacement and then they could figure out what is wrong with the problem unit in their own sweet time.

[dusty]

Just a question out of curiosity.

You state that you upgraded to the PowerPro headstock. Which method of upgrade 1)purchased new, 2)refurbished headstock or 3)your headstock, reconditioned?

[wa2crk]

Dusty
He said in his second post that was a complete new headstock.
I believe that he is in line for a replacement unit that meets Shopsmith's stated specs and claims as stated on the website.
Bill V

[dusty]

Dusty
He said in his second post that was a complete new headstock.
I believe that he is in line for a replacement unit that meets Shopsmith's stated specs and claims as stated on the website.
Bill V

Yes, I understand. I got a new car, too. It is a 2006 Chev Impala.

[JPG]

Now about retraction???

I gotta think tight setscrew and/or inadequate tension.




Tolerance buildup! BS!


Wear in MORE SAME.



Not happy with all that 'merde'.

[dusty]

Dusty
He said in his second post that was a complete new headstock.
I believe that he is in line for a replacement unit that meets Shopsmith's stated specs and claims as stated on the website.
Bill V

The warranty applies no matter which upgrade version he got.

When the question popped into my head, I was thinking what other items could possibly contribute. The list is short. Idler Shaft and Sleeve Assy, Casting (Bearing Race Alignment???).

Then there is the probability that we just do not have a good feel for the problem. Troubleshooting without being able to touch, feel, hear, see the symptoms is difficult.

[reible]

Now about retraction???

I gotta think tight setscrew and/or inadequate tension.




Tolerance buildup! BS!


Wear in MORE SAME.



Not happy with all that 'merde'.

The more common but disliked in common practice is the term break-in, which was replaced with the more liked wear-in. You don't believe? So did your new cars come with the instructions to do what for the first 1000 or xxxx miles and then do an oil change? Now more precision and finer designs have made this a not so common thing but we have a design from the 1950's which will have a break-in period if you will.

I have seen this happen way to many times and each and every time I change quills to think that it happens to some extent all the time. If you observe it or not.

The fact that it has just happened again with my new powerpro makes it fresh in my mind.

Ed

[JPG]

The motors breakin is a different degree than a quill. Those tolerances are far smaller than any associated with the quill. IIUC the car breakin was essentially cylinder wall to rings and the linearity of the wall surface.

Since the quill is a less demanding machining implementation and the interfacing parts count so low, I consider a breakin for the quill to be the result of either too loose tolerances or poor surfaces.

Then however, it is not intended to be a very precise fit anyway.

Ed and Dusty may be correct that the 'issue' is 'typical' of new parts fit.

The vibration however is a puzzle. Touchy-feely here would indeed help like pix do otherwise.

[dusty]

The motors breakin is a different degree than a quill. Those tolerances are far smaller than any associated with the quill. IIUC the car breakin was essentially cylinder wall to rings and the linearity of the wall surface.

Since the quill is a less demanding machining implementation and the interfacing parts count so low, I consider a breakin for the quill to be the result of either too loose tolerances or poor surfaces.

Then however, it is not intended to be a very precise fit anyway.

Ed and Dusty may be correct that the 'issue' is 'typical' of new parts fit.

The vibration however is a puzzle. Touchy-feely here would indeed help like pix do otherwise.

I obviously stated my position poorly. I do not accept this as an example of new parts working poorly together. What are we really talking about. The quill housing and a few bearings along with their respective seats (races).

If this is a parts issue, I would immediate suspect that Shopsmith has lost control over their vendors. NONE of the aforementioned parts are new in the Shopsmith inventory.

Sticky quill could be the result of a problem in the quill control; we have not talked about that (I think because it is obscure).

[reible]

So I got a new powerpro not long ago. I got a used "C" skull and cleaned and painted it up waiting for the arrival of the kit. I think put it together and it has been in use for just a short while now.

The quill was stiff when I first used it, not wanting to retract smoothly for the last part of the stroke. I used it for a while then pulled the quill and cleaned it up and re-waxed it. In a short while it was working like normal and the sticking or lack of smoothness was gone it works just like all of my other experiences with shopsmith quills.

As I have indicted this has happened each and everytime I have put a new quill in. Sometime more, some times less. This case was probably the longest it has taken. It did happen.

So as long as we were on the subject I had just finished another drilling project so I had the time to pull the quill again. Now this is the second time since it was put together.

Since we have the rule that without pictures it didn't happen I got the camera and shot some pictures. You will see what I saw. I also place a sheet of white paper down so what ever fell off could be seen. So the pictures please.......

IMG_0195sc.jpg (95.31 KiB) Viewed 4731 times

IMG_0201msc.jpg (60.62 KiB) Viewed 4731 times

So since there are pictures you must know it happened.

I cleaned it up with at tooth brush and re-waxed it. Its back together and working fine. I also adjusted the spring for a little less pressure, I like it better that way.

Ed