Shopsmith Forums

Dang, I've been fighting with that since I got the dang thing. Overlooking the obvious IS one of my stronger points tho. Thanks for shairing that.

Mike

robinson46176 wrote:I have one of the 3 handle units for the Mark V but only use it in drill press mode since it is in the way for almost everything else. I changed the handle that locks it in place with one I had. The new 3 handle knobs were all black. I used a red knob one on the locking handle so I don't have to look to see which one to loosen. They are alike except for color.

Unless you have an older red one in which case the shape is different!:( Can you tell I do NOT like the 'new' shape?

P.S. I have put 3 older style red handles in it with a lock nut on the two not used as a clamp(they tend to protrude a little and interfere with taking it on & off. I also put a black stripe around the 'clamper' handle. After doing all this I went & got a 10ER hub, inserted a 5/8" x 3/4" bushing(drilled for set screw clearance) so that NONE of its handles was the clamp and they can ALL be torqued down so as to NOT come loose while using! The set screw fits nicely into one of the mkv quill shaft.

There have been times when I wished for a chain drive on the end of the pinion shaft that ran over to an idler shaft over on the left of the headstock so you could put the 3 handle feed over where it would clear the table when the SS is in the horizontal position. Notice that I said "there have been times". I never wished for it hard enough to make me try to build one.
I don't suppose it would be too hard though. Just maybe not worth the effort.

Keep in mind that the 'interference' only occurs when the table is too close to the headstock. The handle clears if the table does NOT extend underneath the quill when fully retracted. Also IF closer, the single handle ALSO interferes and must be repositioned when it does. A simpler work-around would be to extend the quill shaft so the handles clear the front/back of the table.

robinson46176 wrote:There have been times when I wished for a chain drive on the end of the pinion shaft that ran over to an idler shaft over on the left of the headstock so you could put the 3 handle feed over where it would clear the table when the SS is in the horizontal position. Notice that I said "there have been times". I never wished for it hard enough to make me try to build one.
I don't suppose it would be too hard though. Just maybe not worth the effort.

P.S. This is what I be talking about! [ATTACH]5055[/ATTACH]
A longer version would be needed to work on 'front' side.

Wasn't sure whether to call this post "The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly", "Reverse Restoration", or just plain "Oh Crap!". Wasn't even going to post but thought "What the hey...c'est la via". (that will no doubt have several of you googling!!).

Sometimes when winding down for the night, I'll go out and peruse the disassembled ER10 making a mental checklist of stuff I still have to do. It's part visualization process / part planning. Sometimes I'll just look through all the ziploc bags of parts taking an inventory of fasteners I need to replace, inspecting the bearings I want to try repacking (thanks farmer for the light bulb grease packing trick that I am dying to try!), I'll consider whether I want to polish something vs. just clean up, you know, all that stuff that goes into project planning. Often, I'll see something (a relaxing something) that I can do that will just take a few minutes to complete so I'll do it. The other night was those times. However, I should have just went to bed!!!

In my last post, I was trying to get the frozen rusty collar off the quill feed shaft (aka pinion shaft).

[ATTACH]5085[/ATTACH]
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I had used "Kroil" spray applied several times each day over a couple days to try and unfreeze it. I decided it was time to try and take it off. It wouldn't budge by hand. Tried tapping with a hammer and punch and that didn't help either. Tried inserting a 1/4-20 x 1" bolt into the set screw hole to use as a lever arm to twist it off which worked so successfully at removing the quill lever knob a few posts back. All that did was bend the bolt. Decided that I would just use my bearing puller. If that wouldn't get it off, nothing would. Incidentally, I've yet to see the proclaimed miracles of the "Kroil" spray. It's 0 for 2 in getting my frozen parts unstuck. Not saying it's NG but just hasn't worked in my two applications. Bearing puller worked like a charm. The collar came off easily. It was heavily rusted at the shaft interface.

Next "quicky" task before calling it quits for the night (getting tired) was taking off the quill end cap (aka gauge collar) so that I could inspect the quill bearings.

[ATTACH]5084[/ATTACH]
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I removed the set screw holding it on and tried pulling it off. Wouldn't move (gee....with all the frozen parts I've run into on the machine, that didn't EVEN surprise me!!). Since I had my bearing puller out already, decided not to even mess around with with any other removal method. Put the puller on it, cranked it a few turns and heard that nice SNAP sound of a rusty bond breaking loose and the puller started turning freely. Made a few turns and heard something hit the floor. Looked down and saw the unique orange color this ER10 is painted on a TINY piece of metal. Picked it up and saw one side had threads on it.........not good. Looked closer at the gauge collar end cap and saw a HUGE crack with a set screw sitting right in the middle of it.
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[ATTACH]5083[/ATTACH]
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Well, when I took out the one set screw, I hadn't noticed that there was a second set screw 90 degree from it. You can just see the second set screw two photos back, on the top of the gauge collar. That's the one I DIDN'T see, thus didn't remove. The puller however had NO PROBLEM removing the metal that went all around it though!!

Looks like another job for J. B. Weld....NO. Looks more like a job for Bill Mayo......HELP MR. MAYO!!!

I'll try to locate a replacement part, however I will attempt to repair this one with J. B. Weld just because I have to see if I can. It will be good practice for me prior to my attempting the repair on the jigsaw mounting base.

Lesson learned in this whole process.....buy stock in J. B. Weld:D

So that's how to perform a "Reverse Restoration"!

Sorry about the set back Mike.

Mark

Removed the bearings on the ER's spindle/quill and drive shaft assemblies. They seemed to be in good condition except they feel and sound dry.

Spindle / quill Assembly

In order to get to the bearings, first loosen the 2 set screws that hold on the gauge collar and remove. Next, loosed the set screw on the retaining collar then the spindle can be pushed through the quill housing which removes the front bearing. The nice surprise once the spindle came out was seeing that the ER has both a front and rear quill bearing. Early Mark 5 "Greenie" owners know that their units only have a single quill bearing. The part number of the spindle bearing was Fafnir 202KLL3.
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[ATTACH]5136[/ATTACH]
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Drive shaft assembly
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Both bearings on the drive shaft assembly were pulled off at the same time. The bearing part number I have was a NSK 6205V. The Fafnir cross reference I was told is Fafnir 205KLL2



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All 4 of the bearings removed were the same STYLE of bearing but different part numbers. They look like this:
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[ATTACH]5141[/ATTACH]
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robinson46176 - I'm not sure if this type of bearing can be repacked using the light bulb method since there are no "weep holes" (no idea what the weep holes are officially called). Do you know if they can be repacked?

Another thing I'd like to know is what type of bearings are these considered?

mickyd wrote: robinson46176 - I'm not sure if this type of bearing can be repacked using the light bulb method since there are no "weep holes" (no idea what the weep holes are officially called). Do you know if they can be repacked?

Another thing I'd like to know is what type of bearings are these considered?

If I'm seeing the picture correctly that is a "metal shielded" bearing. Yes, you can relube those. A certain amount of the practicality of it depends on the environment they are in. If they were decently clean with only surface dirt I would not be afraid of them at all. If on the other hand they were "running in grunge" that may have worked inside then maybe not. I have many many times removed the shield from one side and cleaned and lubed those successfully even in a lot of dirt but most of the time just warming the bearing well and submerging it in good grease was all that was needed. Often times my decision about how much effort to go to rested on whether or not I had the bearing in stock or could get it quickly or if it was going to be on backorder for a month. We used to do a lot of work on commercial vacs for a chain of theaters and having one down for any time was a drastic problem for them. Sometimes you go the extra mile two or three times for a very good customer.

Geez, Mike! Your 10ER has turned into a wild venture for you. Thank you for all of your posts and photos! They are very informative. I'm glad you are enjoying this restoration!

I've decided that I am going to remove the corrosion pits on my ER's tubes by sanding them down. I'm turning them on my Mark 5 using the rubber freeze plugas the chuck and held by homemade idler roller setup clamped on the tailstock.
[ATTACH]5156[/ATTACH]
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I'm using 36 grit sandpaper on a sanding block. Removing about .004" from the OD gets rid of almost all of the pits. I won't take them down any further than that. How this will effect accuracy is ?????? The variation in the OD after sanding is no more than .0005". The process I use is traversing across the tube surface left to right while at the same time advancing the sanding block from top to bottom as I go to ensure that the tube sees equal grit.

Here's a sneak peek......

As purchased
[ATTACH]5157[/ATTACH]
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After electrolysis
[ATTACH]5159[/ATTACH]
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I haven't done the very beginning of the tube here. I'll flip the tube around and get it when it's on the tailstock side.
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After 32 grit sanding
[ATTACH]5158[/ATTACH]

I'll follow up the 32 grit sanding with 80, 150, 220, 320.

UPDATE 10-11-09
After final sanding - Post #114 shows the final tube surface finish.