Restoration of Mark V / produced on 11/84

[GetterDone]

A little more progress.

I machined a Block to mount this to /so I could straighten the arms.

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I used my mill/drill as the press.

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Front/top way tube out of the Bath.

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[stihlsawer]

Sorry, I'm kind of slow on this comment.

I use Rust-oleum Charcoal Gray paint for my Model 10E and 10ER restorations. I find it close to the original paint color used on them. For me it is a little too glossy for the Model 10's, so I use a Rust-oleum Matte Clear Coat. I haven't used the Rust-oleum Charcoal Gray on a Mark V or any STP so far. For the one Gray Mark V (1982) I restored I used the Shopsmith Gray and have also used it for touch-ups. Painting an entire gray Mark V, it should look close to original for the color.

It looks like you are coming along very well in your restoration. I will enjoy seeing it when finished.

Thanks for the encouragement.

I had this paint on hand to paint a Bridgeport machine I am retrofitting.

I may use your idea about the matte clear coat.
It does have a shine.

Looking great! Russ told me that you used the charcoal gray and told me about your restoration. I sprayed my legs earlier today with charcoal gray and think it looks pretty good IMHO.

[chapmanruss]

A good example of how we all learn from each other.

[GetterDone]

Sorry, I'm kind of slow on this comment.

I use Rust-oleum Charcoal Gray paint for my Model 10E and 10ER restorations. I find it close to the original paint color used on them. For me it is a little too glossy for the Model 10's, so I use a Rust-oleum Matte Clear Coat. I haven't used the Rust-oleum Charcoal Gray on a Mark V or any STP so far. For the one Gray Mark V (1982) I restored I used the Shopsmith Gray and have also used it for touch-ups. Painting an entire gray Mark V, it should look close to original for the color.

It looks like you are coming along very well in your restoration. I will enjoy seeing it when finished.

Thanks for the encouragement.

I had this paint on hand to paint a Bridgeport machine I am retrofitting.

I may use your idea about the matte clear coat.
It does have a shine.

Looking great! Russ told me that you used the charcoal gray and told me about your restoration. I sprayed my legs earlier today with charcoal gray and think it looks pretty good IMHO.

It's good to have other positive opinions.

[GetterDone]

A good example of how we all learn from each other.

I have gained at least 5 Great ideas from this Forum that have helped me this this 1st Restoration.

I hope to share my idea's/ Progress that I can give back to the forum.

[GetterDone]

Tonight's progress.

Time is changing and some of the pictures are poor quality.

This is a before picture of when I hand honed this bore with a 800 grit Silicon carbide Hone that is pictured below.

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After Picture .
I was impressed that It did not take much, if any material.
It just smoothed the surface up.

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Before picture of this bore.

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Then this is an after picture.

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I used the Vice Grips to drive this hone thru the bore smoothly.

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And now Preassembly of Headstock.

I Have A Question???

What putty to use to fill these 3 Set Screws back in with?

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[chapmanruss]

Since you have to remove or a least back out the Set Screw to remove the Quill for maintenance don't bother refilling that one with putty ever. It should not have been done by the factory originally. As for the Quill Return Spring and Collar lock set screws, they don't need removing nearly as often, if at all, but just in case why bother filling them up with something that most likely will need to be removed sometime in the future. Refilling those set screw holes with putty is one thing I do not replace to make it as it came from the factory in my restorations. Just my two cents worth.

[DLB]

Refilling those set screw holes with putty is one thing I do not replace to make it as it came from the factory in my restorations. Just my two cents worth.

Me too, so that's four cents. Especially the quill guide setscrew, which I back out regularly to wax the quill and bore.

- David

[GetterDone]

Since you have to remove or a least back out the Set Screw to remove the Quill for maintenance don't bother refilling that one with putty ever. It should not have been done by the factory originally. As for the Quill Return Spring and Collar lock set screws, they don't need removing nearly as often, if at all, but just in case why bother filling them up with something that most likely will need to be removed sometime in the future. Refilling those set screw holes with putty is one thing I do not replace to make it as it came from the factory in my restorations. Just my two cents worth.

Thank You.
I value your opinion.

I was thinking along the same lines.

This putty was (To keep the not so Knowledgeable person from making a mistake) installed at the factory for people that are not aware.

[GetterDone]

Refilling those set screw holes with putty is one thing I do not replace to make it as it came from the factory in my restorations. Just my two cents worth.

Me too, so that's four cents. Especially the quill guide setscrew, which I back out regularly to wax the quill and bore.

- David

This is Definitely worth 4 cents.

I was thinking of how to keep the Teeth of the Quill clean.