Electrolysis Power Source
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I have a couple of questions about the electrolysis process. Hopefully they will contribute to the discussion and not be a thread-jack.
First, when wiring the anodes together, do you make a complete circuit or not? Does it matter since the circuit essentially completes through the solution?
Second, is it ok to submerge the negative lead coming from the charger when connecting it to the rusty part? Or do you need to suspend the part with something conductive and connect the negative lead to that?
Thanks.
-Loren
First, when wiring the anodes together, do you make a complete circuit or not? Does it matter since the circuit essentially completes through the solution?
Second, is it ok to submerge the negative lead coming from the charger when connecting it to the rusty part? Or do you need to suspend the part with something conductive and connect the negative lead to that?
Thanks.
-Loren
- mickyd
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If your using more than one electrode as the anode (+), all you need to do is connect them, for example, one piece of wire. No need to run a second piece back to the positive lead.hobbydad wrote:I have a couple of questions about the electrolysis process. Hopefully they will contribute to the discussion and not be a thread-jack.
First, when wiring the anodes together, do you make a complete circuit or not? Does it matter since the circuit essentially completes through the solution?
Second, is it ok to submerge the negative lead coming from the charger when connecting it to the rusty part? Or do you need to suspend the part with something conductive and connect the negative lead to that?
Thanks.
-Loren
Submerging the copper negative lead isn't recommended. Copper doesn't like the electrolyte solution.
Mike
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mickyd wrote:If your using more than one electrode as the anode (+), all you need to do is connect them, for example, one piece of wire. No need to run a second piece back to the positive lead.
If I am understanding correctly, a setup like the top picture is ok, and a setup like the bottom picture is not necessary.
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--Loren
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- dusty
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TECHNICALLY, for the process of electrolysis, there is no difference between the two. In both pictures, the rods (+) are all connected together and in turn are connected to the positive terminal of the power source.hobbydad wrote:If I am understanding correctly, a setup like the top picture is ok, and a setup like the bottom picture is not necessary.
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--Loren
The circuit is completed via the solution to the negative lead which is connected to the item to be derusted. Avoid making direct contact between the rusted item (-) and the anodes (+).
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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- dusty
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I have been submerging the copper lead. Is there a problem with doing this so long as I consider the negative lead to be sacrificial? That is - is this hazardous to anything other than the copper?mickyd wrote:If your using more than one electrode as the anode (+), all you need to do is connect them, for example, one piece of wire. No need to run a second piece back to the positive lead.
Submerging the copper negative lead isn't recommended. Copper doesn't like the electrolyte solution.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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- mickyd
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It ok to submerge the copper lead as long as you view the copper as sacrificial as you said. There is nothing hazardous.....it just corrodes the copper over time.dusty wrote:I have been submerging the copper lead. Is there a problem with doing this so long as I consider the negative lead to be sacrificial? That is - is this hazardous to anything other than the copper?
I am curious to know if you can see corrosion on the copper? I've never tried it but just read about it. How long has it been in the solution with current passing through it?
Mike
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- dusty
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The carriage that was scheduled for electrolysis is an ebay special and it looks horrible. No corrosion. Just somehow stained and somewhat rusty (corroded).mickyd wrote:Correct-a-mundo. Aluminum will be harmed by the electrolysis if it is kept in too long.
Were you planning on putting the carriage assembly to remove the paint, remove aluminum oxide of the casting surface, or to derust the steel components?
It was to be an experimental restoration before I start on something more valuable.
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"Making Sawdust Safely"
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- mickyd
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You can try it dusty but from what I've read, you need to visually check it often for pitting. My aluminum table insert was in the tank for a total of ~45 minutes, checking it every 10 minutes and in the end, wire brushed quite nicely with no sign of pitting. With your part having paint on it, I don't know how long it will take to remove the paint and get down to base metal. If you have nothing to loose, and you have time to babysit the process checking it often, give it a shot. I'd be really interested in your results. My thinking is even if it pits the aluminum, texured paint will hide it. And even if the way tube bearing surfaces get pitted, so what.dusty wrote:The carriage that was scheduled for electrolysis is an ebay special and it looks horrible. No corrosion. Just somehow stained and somewhat rusty (corroded).
It was to be an experimental restoration before I start on something more valuable.
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Like Heath said with the cement mixer polishing that PG-ZAG proposed, GO FOR IT (for the good of the forum!!!:D )
Mike
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