JPG wrote:Continue by attaching spring to lower arm, shimming upper arm cover and positioning spring washers.
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Place shaft in lower arm bushing, place into right side bore, and secure with flat washer, lock washer and screw. Attach free end of spring to lower arm.
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Not clear from this pix, but the rocker assembly is secured to the upper arm by a screw.
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A spring washer is placed over the upper and lower arm shafts. The upper one is raised so better 'see' it. They are positioned so the shafts are centered in them.
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Position the left side onto the three shafts then, shims are inserted between the left side and the upper arm cover and secured with the screw, flat washer and lock washer. The ss parts diagram shows one shim. but there were two when I disassembled it.
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Finally secure the left side with three screws/flat washers/lock washers.
Where did you order the tension rod from? Is there a repair kit for this or do you have toorder part by part?
The tension arm was from SS, but is the new version hence the Need
for washer spacers.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Adding here because it it the go-to thread for scroll saw maintenance. My bushings are going to be delivered today. Like JPG and others, I ordered bushings with over-large flanges and will machine them to fit. (MSC #06454979)
However, it occured to me today that carefully installed, flangeless bushings would do every bit as well, and might be worth considering for future rebuilders.
Lastly, I was reviewing Nick Engler's "Scroll Saws" volume of his Workshop Companion book series. He states that a dab of lithium grease is well advised on the brass bushings in scroll saws. Because of the relatively low duty of the bushings, they rarely warm enough to release the impregnated oil, which is cause for premature failure.
Clearly this saw "saw" some use. Tensioning rod spring pin is worn much like JPGs. The tensioning rod itself seems to be in pretty good shape but is a different style than either of those posted previously. New spring pin installed round side down since that is the pivot side.
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After new bushings and a general tuneup, it seemed a shame to have such a corosion stained and age warped table. That was a *much* bigger undertaking than I anticipated. But other than one low spot the size of an apple (low about 0.010" in center) , the table is as flat as I could hope for.
If I knew then... I probably wouldnt have done it.
Pics: 1 hour into leveling, and final product.
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Does any one know what size mounting holes are in the upper and lower Blade Blocks? I'm looking to retrofit better blade holding clamps to my Delta scroll saw.
edma194 wrote: Sat Mar 20, 2021 3:31 pm
Does any one know what size mounting holes are in the upper and lower Blade Blocks? I'm looking to retrofit better blade holding clamps to my Delta scroll saw.
17 518154 Scroll Saw Upper Blade Block
Slot in upper measures 0.2 x 0.7" with my calipers.
Drilled hole in lower measures 0.192" -- sanity check: a 13/64 (0.203") drill bit is just a hair too big.
Thumb and set screws are 1/4-20.
Spring pin in upper toggle arm is 1/8"
paulrussell wrote: Sat Mar 20, 2021 5:31 pm
Slot in upper measures 0.2 x 0.7" with my calipers.
Drilled hole in lower measures 0.192" -- sanity check: a 13/64 (0.203") drill bit is just a hair too big.
Thumb and set screws are 1/4-20.
Spring pin in upper toggle arm is 1/8"
Thanks. I'll try to figure out if that will work. The quick blade change feature of this saw ain't quick.
A few observations and updates after a week of new bushings:
My saw did not have the spring/wave washers like JPG's (nor are they on the parts list in my manual) but I can see why they were added. I've a bit more lateral instability than I care for. Spring washers are on order.
I posted earlier that my tension arm is different than JPGs. I realized that not many threads on the tension toggle were engaging, so I cut off about 1/4" from the spacer.
More than one person, here and in other forums, found the puffer inadequate. Mine blows more than enough air, but we'll see how long it lasts. I removed the hold down foot and attached the blower nozzle directly to the hold down leg.
I noticed today that not only does the (not currently available) Teal scroll saw on the Shopsmith pages come with the upgraded clamps, but that the upper arm no longer has the spring-loaded clamp release. Instead it is permanently mounted by a roll pin. Also the rightmost portion of the arm that held the spring captive has been deleted. This lightens the arm (theoretically reducing vibration) and removes the interference between the clamp knob and the clamp release. I simply swapped sides between the set screw and the knob.
And finally: the clamps are really a loose lateral fit. I'm thinking of closing the gap a bit with a brass shim.
Shims made and added. Making a nice shim is harder than expected. I made 0.010" shims from brass and 0.005" from aluminum (coke can). The upper blade mount took two brass shims (total 0.02") and the lower one of each (total 0.015") both leaving sufficient clearance for operation.
Yes it is probably overkill, but it won't hurt either.
(Aluminum shim pictured still needs center hole deburred.)
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