Shopsmith Forums

I sheared the headstock handle off the rod. I have the new parts: handle, rod and new wedges. How do I remove the sheared rod with the headstock locked to the tubes to replace?

If there is enough stub to put vice-grips on, grab with them, after soaking in some penetrating oil where the shaft enters the wedges. If I remember correctly, the motor has to come out to remove the locks. There is a non-threaded section in the center of the shaft that is amenable to vice-grips also.

jimthej wrote:If there is enough stub to put vice-grips on, grab with them, after soaking in some penetrating oil where the shaft enters the wedges. If I remember correctly, the motor has to come out to remove the locks. There is a non-threaded section in the center of the shaft that is amenable to vice-grips also.

Yes, I do believe that you will have to drop the motor pan and disconnect the power connections from the switch. Doing this will allow you to go to the vertical position so that you can work on the threaded rod.

WARNING: Don't let the headstock and/or carriage slam down when you go vertical. Doing so can cause GREAT DAMAGE.

Once you get vertical (with the motor pan removed) the threaded rod will be accessible. You may have to cut (hack saw) the rod to get the rod and wedges out.

minimaker wrote:I sheared the headstock handle off the rod. I have the new parts: handle, rod and new wedges. How do I remove the sheared rod with the headstock locked to the tubes to replace?

I just did a replacement like this.

I dropped the motor pan, but was able to keep the electrical connections in place (though not required).

Use a 1/8" pin punch to pop the roll pin out of the handle.

Use vice grips to hold the rod in place while you unscrew the handle.

I used a sawzall to *carefully* cut the rod in half. I was using a hacksaw, and certainly could have used a dremel or similar...but it was right there, so why not

Once you have the rod in parts, you should be able to remove the two parts.

jimthej wrote:If there is enough stub to put vice-grips on, grab with them, after soaking in some penetrating oil where the shaft enters the wedges. If I remember correctly, the motor has to come out to remove the locks. There is a non-threaded section in the center of the shaft that is amenable to vice-grips also.

You don't have to remove the motor to remove the locks...but it definitely helps

I held off replying to this so y'all could break the bad news(motor/pan).

If the handle is sheared off using an easy out MAY allow loosening the wedges to allow headstock movement. If not, I would remove the motor/pan(disconnecting all wires), and go vertical for easier access.

Assuming the rod and wedge threads are operative, the wedges can be moved towards the center by either rotating the rod or each wedge or all the above. Once the wedges are positioned to the middle of the rod, it should be able to be removed.

If the threads are not operative, the rod MUST be sawed at the middle.

Installation should start with(MHO) the new wedges all the way to the middle(thread limit) and then the rod inserted into the wedge bores. While holding the wedges to prevent them rotating, rotate the rod so the wedges move out towards the bores. Alternatively rotate each wedge the same turn count. The objective is for the wedges to be equidistant from the middle of the rod. Once the wedges contact the way tubes, the wedges no longer need to be held while rotating the rod. Once the wedges clamp to the way tubes, the handle and roll pin can be replaced.

Caveat: Since the rod/handle were drilled for the roll pin at the factory, the rod should be drilled to match the handle. I do not know if the replacement rod is 'pre drilled'. If so it is crucial to get a good alignment of the knob hole to the rod hole for the roll pin to hold. If redrilling is needed, it would be more easily done out on a bench/vise.

Thanks, for all the responses. I will attempt later in the week.