Easy Overhead Router Set-Up

[charlese]

As I've had problems setting up the Overhead Router arm - after I got it figured out (at least for me) - thought I'd post this easy method. For me this method ends all problems with "having enough router movement" and having the "stop screw" where it will reach the stop, and will adjust high enough.

-Set the headstock 8 inches from the left end of the way tubes and lock it.
-Place the OPR table on the main table.
-Turn the tables to the "Drill press position.
-Lower the table until the OPR table touches the way tubes.
-Place the nearest mounting bracket of the router arm 3.5 inches away from the OPR table.
-Tighten down the router arm to the way tubes.
-Mount the router 1/8 inch away from the chip guard (if not already mounted)
-Put in your bit.
-Stand up the way tubes to drill press position.

For horizontal routing I think a good method of setting up would be to drop a Carpenter's square over the inside edge of the horizontal OPR table and then place the router arm bracket 3.5 inches from the inside edge of the square.
Haven't done this myself yet because didn't have the measurements until today. You will most likely have to move the headstock to the left, but that will not be a problem since the Mark V will remain horizontal.

[ATTACH]635[/ATTACH]

[scottss]

That seems pretty low for me.

[charlese]

Yeah Scott! It won't go any lower. Assuming you were referring to the photo, the height of the table was was for this operation only. The workpiece was clamped to the table and it was a no hands operation. Both of my hands were on the "Table Height Crank".

Of course you can move the table and the router arm and the headstock up - The spacings I gave in post No. 1 were supposed to be relative positions. The most important spacing is the 3.5 inches between the router arm clamp and the table. (while leaving ample distance between the router arm and headstock) It's very possible to have the table and OPR up another 12 to 14 inches. All you have to do is move the headstock.

As you can see in the photo, there are several inches to spare between the OPR and the headstock. When these two are too close, the stop rod can get jammed on the headstock quill. I've done that and it's a bummer! Because then you have to lower the tubes and re position the headstock or OPR.

The headstock being 8 inches from the way tube tie bar, makes the unit easier to lift. I've lifted the unit with the headstock all the way left, but that is not as much fun.

[fjimp]

Hey Chuck I am curious do you have all 4 of the 1" slots end holes drilled all the way thru the table.? If so how well does that work? Jim

[charlese]

Hey Chuck I am curious do you have all 4 of the 1" slots end holes drilled all the way thru the table.? If so how well does that work? Jim

Yep! I did that by mistake - I looked at the blackboard drawing and drew it out on my CAD program by memory. Shouldn't have done that! Took the drawing into the shop and proceeded to drill and cut the slots on the Overhead router. Made the same mistake on the sliding table. The holes on the machine side of the tables don't work worth a darn! A few weeks ago I posted this error and cautioned against drilling 4 holes.

Here is my fix , which also fixed another concern I had at the same time. In my thinking, I also had to fix the soft underside of the slots (MDF I think). I felt if the shoulder bolts get twisted they will eventually wear out the bottom of the slots. Also I quickly:rolleyes: (after trying it out) realized sometimes the bolts should be closer to the inside edge of the table. With the holes there - there was no grab Duhh!:( So to fix both issues - I made the counter-bore parts of the slots 3/8" or so deeper. Then lined the counter-bores with oak. Then did thru routing again of the slots - including through the misplaced holes. Since the bolts hold real good without filling the tops of the holes I see no need to plug the holes and then route slots through the fillers. Took several pix earlier when warning of the mistake. Here's two of them.
[ATTACH]639[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]640[/ATTACH]

[fjimp]

Chuck,

I am sorry to have reminded you of the prior goof. This morning I had some time to finish up the last details on my on sliding table and the grooves in in the OPR Table. I was very careful as I did so because of your prior explanation. Then it hit me. Was this the same fellow who posted both messages?! When I finished up and took care of blowing leaves from our front yard I checked the thread and felt awful. I asked my question yesterday based solely upon looking at your recently posted pictures. I should have looked back and kept my mouth shut. Please accept my apology. I do appreciate a fellow who can share an error and help the rest of us from looking foolish.

I for one can make enough mistakes without help.

Incidentally what CAD program do you use? Is is user friendly enought for somone with little or no training in drawing to learn? Jim

[charlese]

Hi Jim! Please don't worry There was no foul, and absolutely no offense taken. I certainly don't mind repeating a previous posting, especially if it involves an error I made where it might save someone else having the same problem!:)

A while back, I read an article in "Fine Woodworking" about CAD programs for under $100. I Googled the sources and entered into free trial programs on three of the programs. There was one out there that I didn't get (wish I had!) because the lines drawn on the screen looked to be quite wide, but it was very easy to use. It was a 2D program. I spent my $ (think +/- $60) for an IMSI program named Design CAD Express 15. this is also a 2D program. After a while, and a bit of frustration, using their tutorial, I can get it to do what I want. Problem with this program for me is there are literally thousands of commands and I have trouble remembering the 100 or so that I use. With the 2D program I can draw front, top/bottom and side views that are very workable for me.

I found it invaluable for drawing out a corner cabinet. It saved a lot of time doing trig. and pencil drawing. The cabinet is triangular with three truncated apexes - I knew how far the sides of the cabinet could extend along a wall before reaching a window, but couldn't figure the front and was only guessing at the back. The back apex was to be cut so if the wall corner wasn't perfect, the cabnet would still fit against the wall. The other two apexes of the triangle have short sides extending perpendicular from the walls. A drawing in the CAD program gave me all dimensions after I knew only how far the sides should reach.

Thinking it would be a good thing to graduate to a 3D program, I also bought Design CAD 3D Max 16. If I was inclined to spend more learning time on this program it would be wonderful. But so far, I want results quickly from the program rather than spending hours learning.

To read about the above programs, Google IMSI. I think you can download a free trial program(s) for a 30 day, or so, time period. I think they are on versions 18 now.

I'll look up the original magazine article and try to give you the name of the program that I didn't buy. It's pretty intuitive and workable. I'll post what I find on this THREAD. You can give it a free trial.

Some folks like the Google CAD program, but I've had my problems with it. The Good part about the Google program is, it is absolutely free, unless you want to up-grade it!

[charlese]

The article was easier to find than I'd guessed. Here's what I found:

Oct. 2004 - Issue 174 of Fine Woodworking Magazine

2D Programs:
DELTACAD http://www.deltacad.com $39.95 - Beginner - 2 hours learning time

QUICKCAD http://www.autodesk.com $49 - Intermediate - 10 hours learning time

3D Programs:
AUTOSKETCH http://www.autodesk.com $99 - Advanced - 30 hours learning time

DESIGNCAD 3D MAX http://www.imsisoft.com $99.95 - Beginner - 9 hours learning time

TURBOCAD http://www.imsisoft.com $99.95 - Intermediate - 22 hours learning time

I checked out the DETACAD Program on the Internet - It is still $39.95 and they have a free trial. They call it a free Demo. The tutorial is in the help program. I still like it and will probably buy it. Didn't want to buy it 3 years ago, because I'd already shot my wad on the other programs.

I believed what they said in the article about DESIGNCAD 3D MAX was a beginner program and that it could be learned in 9 hours. Not quite 9 hrs - more like 900+!!:(

Good Luck

[fjimp]

Chuck,

Thanks for the Cad Program idea. I have passed it along to the Christmas Gift Selection Team. I am forbidden from buying anything until after Christmas:-) Jim

[charlese]

At least you can try out the demo - for free! Let the gift team see what it is!