Page 1 of 1
Ringmaster Inquiry
Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 5:35 pm
by williamoyoung
Hello all Shopsmith Users .
I just now joined this site but do not own a Shopsmith tool

. My purpose at this time was to ask a question regarding the Ringmaster.
I enjoyed the bowl making video on this site being used on a Shopsmith but my Ringmaster is a self contained Model 723 with its own motor.
Making straight sided bowls is a piece of cake for me so I am now progressing into curved sided ones.
I downloaded the Excell sheet that was provided for a 10" curved bowl. So far I am wasting some wood trying to make that one
What I would like to know is if the guide plate with all the holes should be used on either the side with the holes closer together or the ones farther apart.
If the plate is not used at all , then how far should the assembly be moved along each time before cutting the thickness of the rings.
Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 6:20 pm
by SDSSmith
williamoyoung wrote:Hello all Shopsmith Users .
I just now joined this site but do not own a Shopsmith tool

. My purpose at this time was to ask a question regarding the Ringmaster.
I enjoyed the bowl making video on this site being used on a Shopsmith but my Ringmaster is a self contained Model 723 with its own motor.
Making straight sided bowls is a piece of cake for me so I am now progressing into curved sided ones.
I downloaded the Excell sheet that was provided for a 10" curved bowl. So far I am wasting some wood trying to make that one
What I would like to know is if the guide plate with all the holes should be used on either the side with the holes closer together or the ones farther apart.
If the plate is not used at all , then how far should the assembly be moved along each time before cutting the thickness of the rings.
You can use either set of holes for 'standard' Ringmaster rings. One side yields thicker rings. The instruction manual guides you on setting the correct angle.
What Nick was doing was done using a scale mounted as the reference. He was not using the guide plate. He was also varying the angle depending upon the vessel's shape.
Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 7:15 pm
by williamoyoung
SDSSmith wrote:You can use either set of holes for 'standard' Ringmaster rings. One side yields thicker rings. The instruction manual guides you on setting the correct angle.
What Nick was doing was done using a scale mounted as the reference. He was not using the guide plate. He was also varying the angle depending upon the vessel's shape.
Yes . I understand about seeing him using a ruler taped on for checking distance. What I am concerened about is what distance he uses for making the 10" curved one shown in the Excel spreadsheet he provided.
Using 3/4" stock as shown on the spreadsheet, I believe it is important to know the right distance to move forward for each ring . .
Also , what is not shown in the video is if he trims each ring just cut for the angle of the next ring before cutting that ring out. Someone has told me that is a important step. I think in the video he is making a straight sided bowl where that step is not necessary because the angle and the forward travel is the same for every ring.
I have a PAG (Precision Angle Guide) where I can set the angle in thousands of an inch . As an example , in the plan, the first ring is 1.312 , second ring is 1.468, third ring is 1.688 and so on.
I can set those values with extreme accuracy with the PAG and a digital micrometer.
My problem is that I need to know how far the machine has to be set ahead for each ring because so far it has been trial and error (mostly error). The plan does not say which holes on either side of the guide plate should be used or if any other type of measurement should be used which is different from the pre-set holes on either side of the guide plate .
The video shows what I believe to be an easy straight sided bowl where he uses the same distance and angle for every ring.Those bowls are extremely easy to make with no challenge at all . Curved sided ones are a whole new ball game.
In the case of a curved sided bowl , changing the angle for every ring also changes the amount of travel required for each ring or you run into a very thin ring on one side that will not match up with the previous one when stacked.
Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 2:12 pm
by terrydowning
Welcome William!
I'm familiar with your work from the IAP Other Things we make section.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f45/
For those of you that don't Know, William does some amazing turnings!! Welcome to the SS Forum William.
Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 2:28 pm
by williamoyoung
terrydowning wrote:Welcome William!
I'm familiar with your work from the IAP Other Things we make section.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f45/
For those of you that don't Know, William does some amazing turnings!! Welcome to the SS Forum William.
Thank you Terry for the warm welcome.
I have a PictureTrail album site at this address showing a sampling of my work over the years since I retired. I recently added a "Bowls From A Board" album since I got my ringmaster. I am a real rookie with the Ringmaster but having fun learning
http://www.picturetrail.com/willyswoodcrafting
I also have a woodworking discussion boards site called Woodworking Friends.
http://wmyoung.proboards.com/
With that link , if it is against forum rules here please edit it out and I will understand completely . Some discussion board site allow links to other ones and some don't for various reasons.
Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 4:04 pm
by beeg
Welcome to the forum Bill. You've done some very NICE work I see on your site. I wanted to check some prices, but I was unable to thru the valleyview site.
Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 6:01 pm
by williamoyoung
beeg wrote:Welcome to the forum Bill. You've done some very NICE work I see on your site. I wanted to check some prices, but I was unable to thru the valleyview site.
Most of those items have either been sold at craft sales or given away over the years. I don't usually put prices on stuff I make but am open to offers on any current ones.
I almost gave up completely on woodworking a couple years ago and downsized some of my equipment. But it is something that gets in a persons blood and even with me being ancient

(76) I still enjoy puttering around in my shop. The Ringmaster is my latest toy , , , er . .tool so I am having fun playing with that one.
BTW
How does one put a live signature link in this site ? When I put it in as a http:// address it doesn't show so if I add the url tags they show but it is not a live link .
If a moderator wants to edit my profile and put that in , it would be great or else let me know where I am going astray.
Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 6:36 pm
by SDSSmith
williamoyoung wrote:Most of those items have either been sold at craft sales or given away over the years. I don't usually put prices on stuff I make but am open to offers on any current ones.
I almost gave up completely on woodworking a couple years ago and downsized some of my equipment. But it is something that gets in a persons blood and even with me being ancient

(76) I still enjoy puttering around in my shop. The Ringmaster is my latest toy , , , er . .tool so I am having fun playing with that one.
BTW
How does one put a live signature link in this site ? When I put it in as a http:// address it doesn't show so if I add the url tags they show but it is not a live link .
If a moderator wants to edit my profile and put that in , it would be great or else let me know where I am going astray.
That 'feature' has been turned off on this group.
Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 7:33 pm
by williamoyoung
SDSSmith wrote:That 'feature' has been turned off on this group.
Thanks for the explanation.
Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 11:25 pm
by JPG
williamoyoung wrote:Thanks for the explanation.
That 'feature' and others are disabled due to the spammers using them for less than good objectives.