Bandsaw drift Question

paulmcohen · Post by **paulmcohen** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 12:40 am

I am cutting plastic floor tile with the Shopsmith Bandsaw on "slow" with the Kreg fence. I have a 1/4" blade with the Carter bearings on top and Cool Blocks on the bottom. Then I cut the material it pulls away from the fence at a very quick rate, over 1" before I get to the end of a 1 foot tile. Also the blade moves off the grove in the bearing and if I am not careful eventually it comes off the drive wheel.

The blade is tightened until the red arrow is just above the 1/4" mark.

What am I doing wrong? This seems like much more drift than I would expect. I have not adjusted the fence for drift it is parallel to the groves in the table, but I don't think I could even adjust it this much.

reible · Post by **reible** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 1:44 am

Hi,

I don't have a shopsmith but in general....

Which Carter set do you have on top? If it is the single bearing with the notch in it then you have the Stabilizer™ and it is NOT designed for doing what you are trying to do. The other option is a conversion kit which should work well, the one I have has three bearings on top and a pair below.

Second question is how close to the tile are you able to get the blade guard? It should be within a 1/4" of what you are cutting.

If you could get a couple of photos that might help....

Ed

paulmcohen · Post by **paulmcohen** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 4:09 am

[ATTACH]675[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]677[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]676[/ATTACH]

I noticed that the bottom roller was much too far forward such that the top roller never touched. I adjusted them so now both rollers move. I have not tried it yet but I don't think it will matter. I did not know carter offered another choice for the Shopsmith bandsaw.

chiroindixon · Post by **chiroindixon** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 7:42 am

I suspect that you are doing nothing wrong, especially if you checked your drift prior to use...ON wood. I have had similar problems cutting Plexiglas using my scroll saw. The issue, and I seem to remember that Nick posted tips here, is the plastic is heating up and grabbing the blade. I gave up scrolling on plastic.

For straight cuts though, I've had little problems running them off on my 520 table saw. Regular speed, using a fence/miter sled.....no problems. I've done 1/2" thick plastic cutting boards. Some small melting, looks kinda like chipout, but scrapes right off to reveal a straight edge.

I've wanted to put Carter guides on my band saw but was only aware of the single set. Ed, can you enlighten us on the conversion set with multiple bearings?

Doc

drewa · Post by **drewa** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 8:01 am

Paul,

I would suggest using a thicker band saw blade. I am almost certain that the 1/4" blade is just too "flimsy" for you task. 1/4" blades are generally used for curves. How about using a 1/2" blade for this straight cut? I think that would solve your problem. You might get a little drift, but not what you are getting now.

Be Good,

Drew

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 9:24 am

Looking at your photos, I would have said you have a Carter guide.

Yours looks to be the single bearing type that ed commented on.

http://carterproducts.com/

The Carter site does not list Shopsmith; however, they state that your bandsaw can be converted - just contact them.

foxtrapper · Post by **foxtrapper** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 9:53 am

No bandsaw expert am I. But I have learned and observed a few things.

The smaller the blade, the more it twists and walks.

The finer toothed the blade, the more it twists and walks.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 10:08 am

I knew this had been discussed here before.

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... ght=carter

http://www.carterproducts.com/product.a ... &cat_id=14

reible · Post by **reible** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 5:40 pm

So is everyone clear on this subject?

If not let me go over this again.

Carter Products doesn't have a conversion kit listed for the Shopsmith band saw. "This is the part you need for complete three side support that allows you to cut perfectly straight resaw/rip cuts and traditional radius curves better then any other guide system on the market."

They do how ever make what is called a Stabilizer™. The reason you would want that product is to allow the saw to make tight radius and more complex curves that can not be done with traditional guide system. So if you want to make elaborate scroll saw type cuts with your bandsaw this is what you need.

So for resawing and ripping you need to have the std shopsmith gear on. For scroll type cutting use the stabilizer.

I don't own the stabilizer yet but it is on my list for this next year. There goes $70+ our of next years budget already.... oh the cost of woodworking and always wanted that next tool or attachment....

Ed

dougrl · Post by **dougrl** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 10:37 pm

Hi Paul, We did a lot of this, and used a Carbide lino knife, score it and snap it. We did all our arborite this way also. Or, use Doc's idea cut them with a table saw using a plywood blade [many many teeth] we cut all kinds of plastic , plexiglass, lextan, Just wear a face mask the blade throws a lot of pieces around. Also, with a band saw blade for cutting a straight line, the blade must only be use for cutting a straight lines, the first time you cut a curve, it is history for straight lines[re-sawing] cutting. P.S. My experience only. Cheers Doug

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