Bandsaw drift Question
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Bandsaw drift Question
I am cutting plastic floor tile with the Shopsmith Bandsaw on "slow" with the Kreg fence. I have a 1/4" blade with the Carter bearings on top and Cool Blocks on the bottom. Then I cut the material it pulls away from the fence at a very quick rate, over 1" before I get to the end of a 1 foot tile. Also the blade moves off the grove in the bearing and if I am not careful eventually it comes off the drive wheel.
The blade is tightened until the red arrow is just above the 1/4" mark.
What am I doing wrong? This seems like much more drift than I would expect. I have not adjusted the fence for drift it is parallel to the groves in the table, but I don't think I could even adjust it this much.
The blade is tightened until the red arrow is just above the 1/4" mark.
What am I doing wrong? This seems like much more drift than I would expect. I have not adjusted the fence for drift it is parallel to the groves in the table, but I don't think I could even adjust it this much.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
Hi,
I don't have a shopsmith but in general....
Which Carter set do you have on top? If it is the single bearing with the notch in it then you have the Stabilizer™ and it is NOT designed for doing what you are trying to do. The other option is a conversion kit which should work well, the one I have has three bearings on top and a pair below.
Second question is how close to the tile are you able to get the blade guard? It should be within a 1/4" of what you are cutting.
If you could get a couple of photos that might help....
Ed
I don't have a shopsmith but in general....
Which Carter set do you have on top? If it is the single bearing with the notch in it then you have the Stabilizer™ and it is NOT designed for doing what you are trying to do. The other option is a conversion kit which should work well, the one I have has three bearings on top and a pair below.
Second question is how close to the tile are you able to get the blade guard? It should be within a 1/4" of what you are cutting.
If you could get a couple of photos that might help....
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
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I noticed that the bottom roller was much too far forward such that the top roller never touched. I adjusted them so now both rollers move. I have not tried it yet but I don't think it will matter. I did not know carter offered another choice for the Shopsmith bandsaw.
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I noticed that the bottom roller was much too far forward such that the top roller never touched. I adjusted them so now both rollers move. I have not tried it yet but I don't think it will matter. I did not know carter offered another choice for the Shopsmith bandsaw.
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Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
- chiroindixon
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I suspect that you are doing nothing wrong, especially if you checked your drift prior to use...ON wood. I have had similar problems cutting Plexiglas using my scroll saw. The issue, and I seem to remember that Nick posted tips here, is the plastic is heating up and grabbing the blade. I gave up scrolling on plastic.
For straight cuts though, I've had little problems running them off on my 520 table saw. Regular speed, using a fence/miter sled.....no problems. I've done 1/2" thick plastic cutting boards. Some small melting, looks kinda like chipout, but scrapes right off to reveal a straight edge.
I've wanted to put Carter guides on my band saw but was only aware of the single set. Ed, can you enlighten us on the conversion set with multiple bearings?
Doc
For straight cuts though, I've had little problems running them off on my 520 table saw. Regular speed, using a fence/miter sled.....no problems. I've done 1/2" thick plastic cutting boards. Some small melting, looks kinda like chipout, but scrapes right off to reveal a straight edge.
I've wanted to put Carter guides on my band saw but was only aware of the single set. Ed, can you enlighten us on the conversion set with multiple bearings?
Doc
Paul,
I would suggest using a thicker band saw blade. I am almost certain that the 1/4" blade is just too "flimsy" for you task. 1/4" blades are generally used for curves. How about using a 1/2" blade for this straight cut? I think that would solve your problem. You might get a little drift, but not what you are getting now.
Be Good,
Drew
I would suggest using a thicker band saw blade. I am almost certain that the 1/4" blade is just too "flimsy" for you task. 1/4" blades are generally used for curves. How about using a 1/2" blade for this straight cut? I think that would solve your problem. You might get a little drift, but not what you are getting now.
Be Good,
Drew
"When one has finished building one's house, one suddenly realizes that in the process one has learned something that one really needed to know in the worst way - before one began."
[INDENT][/INDENT]Friedrich Nietzsche
[INDENT][/INDENT]Friedrich Nietzsche
- dusty
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Bandsaw Drift Question
Looking at your photos, I would have said you have a Carter guide.
Yours looks to be the single bearing type that ed commented on.
http://carterproducts.com/
The Carter site does not list Shopsmith; however, they state that your bandsaw can be converted - just contact them.
Yours looks to be the single bearing type that ed commented on.
http://carterproducts.com/
The Carter site does not list Shopsmith; however, they state that your bandsaw can be converted - just contact them.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
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- dusty
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Bandsaw Drift Question
I knew this had been discussed here before.
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... ght=carter
http://www.carterproducts.com/product.a ... &cat_id=14
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... ght=carter
http://www.carterproducts.com/product.a ... &cat_id=14
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
So is everyone clear on this subject?
If not let me go over this again.
Carter Products doesn't have a conversion kit listed for the Shopsmith band saw. "This is the part you need for complete three side support that allows you to cut perfectly straight resaw/rip cuts and traditional radius curves better then any other guide system on the market."
They do how ever make what is called a Stabilizer™. The reason you would want that product is to allow the saw to make tight radius and more complex curves that can not be done with traditional guide system. So if you want to make elaborate scroll saw type cuts with your bandsaw this is what you need.
So for resawing and ripping you need to have the std shopsmith gear on. For scroll type cutting use the stabilizer.
I don't own the stabilizer yet but it is on my list for this next year. There goes $70+ our of next years budget already.... oh the cost of woodworking and always wanted that next tool or attachment....
Ed
If not let me go over this again.
Carter Products doesn't have a conversion kit listed for the Shopsmith band saw. "This is the part you need for complete three side support that allows you to cut perfectly straight resaw/rip cuts and traditional radius curves better then any other guide system on the market."
They do how ever make what is called a Stabilizer™. The reason you would want that product is to allow the saw to make tight radius and more complex curves that can not be done with traditional guide system. So if you want to make elaborate scroll saw type cuts with your bandsaw this is what you need.
So for resawing and ripping you need to have the std shopsmith gear on. For scroll type cutting use the stabilizer.
I don't own the stabilizer yet but it is on my list for this next year. There goes $70+ our of next years budget already.... oh the cost of woodworking and always wanted that next tool or attachment....
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Cutting plastic
Hi Paul, We did a lot of this, and used a Carbide lino knife, score it and snap it. We did all our arborite this way also. Or, use Doc's idea cut them with a table saw using a plywood blade [many many teeth] we cut all kinds of plastic , plexiglass, lextan, Just wear a face mask the blade throws a lot of pieces around. Also, with a band saw blade for cutting a straight line, the blade must only be use for cutting a straight lines, the first time you cut a curve, it is history for straight lines[re-sawing] cutting. P.S. My experience only. Cheers Doug