Bandsaw drift Question

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paulmcohen
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Post by paulmcohen »

I learned a lot today, first take the stabilizer off, second put on my larger blade. I can't use the table saw because the cuts are all stopped and that just seems too dangerous. I don't know about a knife for the same reason the cuts are not straight across.

Thanks everyone. Also I am sure I got the stabilizer for under $50 somewhere on the internet you might want to check Google.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
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Nick
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Post by Nick »

On compensating for blade drift (also called "blade lead"), quoted from Woodworking Wisdom, by Nick Engler:

"Position the fence parallel to the blade drift, not the blade body. Unlike circular saw, bandsaw blades rarely cut parallel to their blade bodies. The teeth usually cut more agressively on one side than the other, and the blade "leads" or drifts" a few degrees toward the aggresive side. To cut a straight line, the fence must guide the wood past the blade in the same direction that the blade leads.

"To find the blade lead, make a test cut in a long scrap. This scrap should be the same width and species as the stock you wish to resaw. Scribe a line down the center of the stock and begin cutting it on the bandsaw. Adjust the feed direction until the blade is cutting straight along the line, then stop cutting and turn off the machine. Don't let the scrap move!

"Use the scrap like a straightedge to mark a line on the table with a nonpermanent marker, such as a wax pencil. This is the lead line for that particular blade as it's presently mounted. When you change or readjust the blade, you must draw a new lead line.

"Adjust the bandsaw fence parallel to the lead line. Don't be alarmed if it as much as 4 or 5 degrees off parallel to the miter gauge slot, if you have one. This is normal."

With all good wishes,
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