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Powerpro Hstk-owner Upgrd
Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 7:54 pm
by mikelst
Ok folks, MyDo-It_yourself PowerPro Upgrade
is being shipped shortly.
I got a call today asking what type of headstock switch I have. Since I have Three headstocks and they all have the same type of power switch that is a no brainer but,,, I have an 86 headstock on my system that has been upgraded to a 520.
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/attachment.htm?attachmentid=8352&d=1270171422
I have the 59 Greenie shorty system
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/attachment.htm?attachmentid=9028&d=1274921410
And I have a frame with a full set of 510 tables on it. I also have a 'new' 55 ShopSmith Mark 5.
Is there any advantage to using a newer headstock?
Is there any interior maintenance that will require a maintenance access port on the 'new' powerepro parts?
Thanks
Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 7:59 pm
by JPG
My preference is an "A" headstock casting due to its being 'heavier'.
I do not think the 'access' hole behind the medallion is of particular usefulness with a PP.
Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 9:05 pm
by charlese
Sorry, can't give you any specifics, but can tell you the DIY written instructions address the differences between the headstocks and specific directions for each.
Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 12:28 am
by paulmcohen
mikelst wrote:Ok folks, MyDo-It_yourself PowerPro Upgrade
is being shipped shortly.
I got a call today asking what type of headstock switch I have. Since I have Three headstocks and they all have the same type of power switch that is a no brainer but,,, I have an 86 headstock on my system that has been upgraded to a 520.
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/attachment.htm?attachmentid=8352&d=1270171422
I have the 59 Greenie shorty system
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/attachment.htm?attachmentid=9028&d=1274921410
And I have a frame with a full set of 510 tables on it. I also have a 'new' 55 ShopSmith Mark 5.
Is there any advantage to using a newer headstock?
Is there any interior maintenance that will require a maintenance access port on the 'new' powerepro parts?
Thanks
What I would use to decide is how much money can I get for the extra parts, newer parts may be worth more. If you are not planning on selling extra stuff, then I would upgrade the oldest machine. The PP upgrade comes with new belts and dual bearing quill which you may or may not have on your older machines. Lastly the instructions for very old machines seemed more difficult because you had to destroy something to do the upgrade and the part(s) you destroy are not included in the upgrade kit.
Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 1:16 am
by JPG
paulmcohen wrote:What I would use to decide is how much money can I get for the extra parts, newer parts may be worth more. If you are not planning on selling extra stuff, then I would upgrade the oldest machine. The PP upgrade comes with new belts and dual bearing quill which you may or may not have on your older machines. Lastly the instructions for very old machines seemed more difficult because you had to destroy something to do the upgrade and the part(s) you destroy are not included in the upgrade kit.
Any details?
Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 8:15 am
by dusty
paulmcohen wrote:What I would use to decide is how much money can I get for the extra parts, newer parts may be worth more. If you are not planning on selling extra stuff, then I would upgrade the oldest machine. The PP upgrade comes with new belts and dual bearing quill which you may or may not have on your older machines. Lastly the instructions for very old machines seemed more difficult because you had to destroy something to do the upgrade and the part(s) you destroy are not included in the upgrade kit.
I don't understand! What would you have to destroy? Just completely dismantle the headstock that you intend to upgrade (destroy nothing) and then rebuild with the parts in the upgrade kit.
Just curious. Do you sell off the leftover loose hardware too or just the big ticket items?
Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 10:16 pm
by claimdude
dusty wrote:I don't understand! What would you have to destroy? Just completely dismantle the headstock that you intend to upgrade (destroy nothing) and then rebuild with the parts in the upgrade kit.
Just curious. Do you sell off the leftover loose hardware too or just the big ticket items?
Dusty,
You do have to drill a few holes in the housing (all hidden from view when all the covers are installed) and drill or file a large hole in the motor pan but I agree it is certainly not destroyed.
Jack
DIY PowerPro
Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 10:25 pm
by mikelst
dusty wrote:Just curious. Do you sell off the leftover loose hardware too or just the big ticket items?
Dusty
If this is directed to me... I will probably sell off the pulls as they will be coming from the 55 headstock. Gilmer drive and 3/4 hp motor that I will not need for spares. If the speed control is good I may keep it as a spare for my other two headstocks.
I may be moving the 86 headstock to the 510 setup and putting the powerpro on the 520, but maybe not too:rolleyes:?
more thinking on this required, in part as a space consideration.
Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 1:04 am
by paulmcohen
dusty wrote:I don't understand! What would you have to destroy? Just completely dismantle the headstock that you intend to upgrade (destroy nothing) and then rebuild with the parts in the upgrade kit.
Just curious. Do you sell off the leftover loose hardware too or just the big ticket items?
I sold everything, usually bundled into collections that made sense. I was a year ago but I seem to remember getting $500-$700 for everything and the buyer paid shipping.
I don't remember the details the in early mark 5's the carriage lock handle did not have a pin and had to be cut out. Maybe someone else has more details.
Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 4:37 am
by JPG
paulmcohen wrote:I sold everything, usually bundled into collections that made sense. I was a year ago but I seem to remember getting $500-$700 for everything and the buyer paid shipping.
I don't remember the details the in early mark 5's the carriage lock handle did not have a pin and had to be cut out. Maybe someone else has more details.
Blind hole perhaps? I have encountered that on some early models. Drilling a pilot hole through the tension pin center allows drilling a through hole for pin removal.