Shopsmith Forums

I am just getting started using the table saw feature of my ShopSmith 10ER. Although I have used it several times in the past for rough cuts, I am now making a bookcase that requires more precision. I have been rereading parts of Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone and am confused by instructions for setting the rip fence. Page 5 says to "set the rip fence to an approximate position and lock it in place front and rear. Then make the final adjustment by advancing the blade." However the splitter is attached to the table so advancing the blade would bring it out of alignment. Are they suggesting ripping without the splitter attached, or making extremely limited adjustments (1/32" or less) so that the splitter still lines up with part of the saw kerf?

This may be an obvious question, but when ripping and crosscutting pieces from a long board, is it generally preferrable, given the option, to rip first then crosscut or to crosscut then rip?

Lastly I need to square up some sizeable plywood pieces, on the order of 3/4"x1'x6' and one 1/4"x3'x6'. Is there a good way to do this on the 10ER, or would it be easier to use a circular saw with a straightedge clamped to the plywood as a fence?

These are my opinions which are based on general wood working knowledge and use of a Shopsmith Mark V. Disclaimer: I do not have and have never used a 10ER.

Finetuning the distance between the fence and the blade is easily accomplished using the quill advance. Provided you are using a standard saw insert and NOT a ZCI. I know on my Mark V I have to pay attention to the splitter position and sometimes need to make minor adjustments to that as well once the blade is set to the desired width. Most of the time I use a ZCI so I wind up adjusting the fence only.

In general rip first then cross cut. It's much easier to rip longer pieces and cross cut narrower pieces. Note: This is a general rule there are times especially when breaking down panels or very long stock that it goes back and forth. Either for convenience of handling or using shared setups. It really all depends on the situation.

Unless I have assistance in the form of 1 or 2 people (One of whom knows how to use a table saw) and outfeed support to help with large panels, I break them down with my circular saw and a straight edge.

Just my thoughts and how I do things.

Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately on the 10ER there doesn't seem to be any way to adjust the position of the splitter with respect to the back of the table. It can be tilted so that it stays vertical when table is tilted, but it is always aligned with the middle of the insert. I guess I will move the fence to change the size and only use the quill advance for the most minute adjustments.

I have 3 10ER machines, so I have some experience with this.

You cannot move the splitter on the ER, so you have two choices - you can either leave off the splitter, or you can align the splitter and the blade and then align your fence to give you the width you want.

If you are going to do a lot of cutting of large pieces I recommend buying a second carriage and table. They are readily available on eBAy at fairly reasonable prices if you are patient. You can mount the two together and have a larger surface area to work with. You can also buy a second extension table and have on at each end of the machine. Even with such extensions I find it hard to cut large sheet goods and keep the cut really straight and accurate on the ER. Even on my Mark V with the 510 tables this is hard, so it may be as much my issue as it is the machine's.

If you are going o use the ER a lot I highly recommend joining the Yahoo users group. This is a great group with very knowledgeable and helpful members on all things related to these machines. They have been a huge help to me as I have restored and used these machines. You can find the group at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shopsmith10ERusers/

Hope this helps!
Karl Schwarz
Centreville, VA

Considering that my inexperience probably puts me in sufficient danger already, I wouldn't want to compound it by removing the splitter and guard. I might end up getting a second extension table if it seems like it will be helpful. I had never thought of getting a second table and carriage. When dealing with large panels, it seems like sticking with a jig for my circular saw will be more practical than anything I can manage on the table saw. I just joined the Yahoo group. It sounds like a good place to direct my 10ER-specific questions and get ideas for improving my setup. Thanks.

Shopsmith sells the True-Trac made by Insight Toolworks. It was on sale last week. It is amazing and allowed me to cut 3/16" strips off of each side of 4 bi-fold doors which were ordered too wide. I believe I could of achieved 1/16" accuracy by using the track and a plastic plate mounted to the underside of my circular saw. There are other manufacturers who make plunge saws that are far more expensive.

I simply made a mark on each end & aligned the plastic edge to my mark. The weight of the circular saw kept the track from moving. The plastic edge prevents chip outs. I didn't have to clamp a thing or have any assistance. The same thing can be done on 4 x 8 sheets of plywood or anything up to I believe 115" in length.

I have several 10E/ERs and don't use the table saw feature on them. Insight also makes a contractor table that allows you to use a 2' x 4' piece of 3/4 plywood and extend the tracks attached with sacrificial 1 by lumber for easily cutting 4' x 8' plywood sheets.

Good luck & be safe.

Tony

Cutting large 4 x 8 sheet stock is burdensome for most home small table saws, including a Shopsmith. Sort of silly to think ANY table saw WITHOUT some sort of outfeed is practical. That said, can still be done but as your concern is the splitter on a 10er but would have to agree with the others on non-alignment with the splitter once you move the quill.

Not to difficult but there's many ways to cut sheet stock and since this is 10er specific, first make sure your machine is properly aligned including the fence. Double check everything and when dialed-in, these machines really are precise. Read the manual on how to or check out youtube. Next, ready your homemade outfeed. You can see the chapters in PTWFE on making one or come up with your own design. A two 'A' frame like a wide and taller adjustable sawhorse is the simplest. You might want to add a long scab board of some sort to the fence. Many different fence designs but it if you add a horizontal piece to the vertical board, it stiffens and prevents flex.

I'm assuming you choose to keep the splitter and guard in place so I would lock the quill in the fully retracted position.

Once all the machine prep and outfeed is ready, lets get that rip number and set the fence to the inside edge of the blade kerf. IMPORTANT - First tighten the front fence knob, THEN the back knob. Let her rip.

BTW: A jointer is a must have and with the table saw, these two work together for clean and precise edges. Good luck.

terrydowning wrote:These are my opinions which are based on general wood working knowledge and use of a Shopsmith Mark V. Disclaimer: I do not have and have never used a 10ER.

Finetuning the distance between the fence and the blade is easily accomplished using the quill advance. Provided you are using a standard saw insert and NOT a ZCI. I know on my Mark V I have to pay attention to the splitter position and sometimes need to make minor adjustments to that as well once the blade is set to the desired width. Most of the time I use a ZCI so I wind up adjusting the fence only.

In general rip first then cross cut. It's much easier to rip longer pieces and cross cut narrower pieces. Note: This is a general rule there are times especially when breaking down panels or very long stock that it goes back and forth. Either for convenience of handling or using shared setups. It really all depends on the situation.

Unless I have assistance in the form of 1 or 2 people (One of whom knows how to use a table saw) and outfeed support to help with large panels, I break them down with my circular saw and a straight edge.

Just my thoughts and how I do things.

I have to agree with Terry D on this point. It's why I spent the money on an 8' straightedge.

Any recommendations on a long straightedge, then? For a limited amount of use, is it important to spend $250 on a nice True-Trac system? Would an 8' board, run through a jointer and nailed to a piece of MDF, produce good results? I occurs to me that a piece of plywood might be less likely to bow than a board, but I have read that you shouldn't put it through a jointer. Would simply having it cut on the Lowe's panel saw produce a straight enough edge?

[quote="Eric"Shop"Smith"]Any recommendations on a long straightedge, then? For a limited amount of use, is it important to spend $250 on a nice True-Trac system? Would an 8' board, run through a jointer and nailed to a piece of MDF, produce good results? I occurs to me that a piece of plywood might be less likely to bow than a board, but I have read that you shouldn't put it through a jointer. Would simply having it cut on the Lowe's panel saw produce a straight enough edge?[/quote]
Yes, a long straight board works great as a straight edge. A piece of 2" aluminum angle also works well]This[/URL] might be of interest.