Shopsmith Forums

Good Saturday all.
I am trying to reassemble my greenie headstock today as I write, it has been awhile since disassemble and I have slept since then.

I have viewed somr threads but I need to ask for some help. In an order of operations working to assemble, could someone please outline
(1. First quillfeedsecond 2. uppershaft ect.)

There are great pics but this is my first assemble.

Thanks all.

I have a specific questions regarding the instll of the eccentric bushing and idler shaft. On my greenie:
1. allign the notch in the ecentric towards the bottom ?
2. it has the allen screw that needs snugged but not over tightened
3. do I rotate the bushing to adjust the belt and to what standard ?
4. I have the bolt and 2 u-shaped clips to tighten up and hold the eccentric in place, I understand the cast ears can break ?
5. I don't have a pic of which way the u-shaped clips go? how come there are 2?

Mrhart
I always start with the drive (upper) shaft that the gilmer belt rides on. I have not done a Greenie as such but the assembly will be the same. I put the belt in the casting and then push the drive shaft into the casting and through the belt so the belt is around the shaft as you put the shaft in the headstock. One suggestion that I would make is to put the nylon drive sleeve on the drive shaft before installing the shaft. This seems to be easier for me.
To install the eccentric on the poly V belt systems I put the sheave into the casting without the eccentric and I install the eccentric from the outside of the casting. Never worked with the tabs so I won't comment on them.
The ears on the casting for the bolt that secures the eccentric can be broken if overtightened. One suggestion is to install a lockwasher on the bolt and tighten just enough to compress the lockwasher.
Bill Mayo will probably pop up here and guide you through a detailed assembly as he has a vast amount of knowledge and experience with the Greenie models.
When I take things apart I usually take some pics to help reassembly.
Good luck
Bill V

wa2crk wrote:Mrhart
I always start with the drive (upper) shaft that the gilmer belt rides on. I have not done a Greenie as such but the assembly will be the same. I put the belt in the casting and then push the drive shaft into the casting and through the belt so the belt is around the shaft as you put the shaft in the headstock. One suggestion that I would make is to put the nylon drive sleeve on the drive shaft before installing the shaft. This seems to be easier for me.
To install the eccentric on the poly V belt systems I put the sheave into the casting without the eccentric and I install the eccentric from the outside of the casting. Never worked with the tabs so I won't comment on them.
The ears on the casting for the bolt that secures the eccentric can be broken if overtightened. One suggestion is to install a lockwasher on the bolt and tighten just enough to compress the lockwasher.
Bill Mayo will probably pop up here and guide you through a detailed assembly as he has a vast amount of knowledge and experience with the Greenie models.
When I take things apart I usually take some pics to help reassembly.
Good luck
Bill V

Excellant instructions on the eccentric and bolt. I install the lock washer under the hex bolt head, not under the nut. Do not overtighten the bolt (10-20 ft. pds) or the Gilmer belt. I find leaving about 1/8"-1/4" deflection for the belt works well. Rotate the quill in the normal direction and watch that the Gilmer belt does not rub againest the pulley hub (1/16"-1/8" clearance). I sometimes file one of the u-shaped extended clip tips to help position the belt. The u-shaped clips must prevent the eccentric bushing from coming out of the headstock. I have been drilling and tapping the headstock for a #10 screw above the eccentric and using a large body washer to prevent the eccentric and idler shaft from exiting the headstock but the clips can work well also.

billmayo wrote:Excellant instructions on the eccentric and bolt. I install the lock washer under the hex bolt head, not under the nut. Do not overtighten the bolt (10-20 ft. pds) or the Gilmer belt. I find leaving about 1/8"-1/4" deflection for the belt works well. Rotate the quill in the normal direction and watch that the Gilmer belt does not rub againest the pulley hub (1/16"-1/8" clearance). I sometimes file one of the u-shaped extended clip tips to help position the belt. The u-shaped clips must prevent the eccentric bushing from coming out of the headstock. I have been drilling and tapping the headstock for a #10 screw above the eccentric and using a large body washer to prevent the eccentric and idler shaft from exiting the headstock but the clips can work well also.

Which way do the clips go? I'm guessing the bigger ear to the outside of the headstock?
Why is there 2? It seems that doesn't fill the gap snug between the cast ears and that they'll still rattle around a bit? kind of odd.

mrhart wrote:Which way do the clips go? I'm guessing the bigger ear to the outside of the headstock?
Why is there 2? It seems that doesn't fill the gap snug between the cast ears and that they'll still rattle around a bit? kind of odd.

Good guess!

My question would be why is there more than one clip.

Maybe two rattles less than one!:D


Make sure the gilmer belt does not rub against them.

mrhart wrote:Which way do the clips go? I'm guessing the bigger ear to the outside of the headstock?
Why is there 2? It seems that doesn't fill the gap snug between the cast ears and that they'll still rattle around a bit? kind of odd.

Yes, the bigger ear goes outside. I cut off the inner ear on a few of the clips that somewhat worked but was not happy with that change. Because of the idler shaft being held too much toward the back of the headstock, I made up many much thicker aluminum clips which positioned the idler shaft so the Gilmer belt was away from the drive sleeve Gilmer clutch hub. I found a few years ago, it was quicker to drill and tap the "A" headstock for the #10 screw and large body washer than make up more of the clips to reposition the idler shaft bearing. This is identical to the "B" headstock casing that holds the eccentric bushing.

billmayo wrote:Yes, the bigger ear goes outside. I cut off the inner ear on a few of the clips that somewhat worked but was not happy with that change. Because of the idler shaft being held too much toward the back of the headstock, I made up many much thicker aluminum clips which positioned the idler shaft so the Gilmer belt was away from the drive sleeve Gilmer clutch hub. I found a few years ago, it was quicker to drill and tap the "A" headstock for the #10 screw and large body washer than make up more of the clips to reposition the idler shaft bearing. This is identical to the "B" headstock casing that holds the eccentric bushing.

Thank you sir for your help. I left the ears on and adjusted the eccentric and belt and snugged everything down. I only tightened the lock washer under the nut until I could see it flatten out. No ears broken

Regarding the Quill, I watched the sawdust session and reviewed JPG's threads, but my issue doesn't seem to be addressed.
My quill worked fine when I took it apart, upon this reassembley, I'm not sure if the spring is ok.
with everything loose and I wind the handle a few turns as I saw in the video, I feel no "stopping" place as Nick describes. It just goes around and around. Does that mean it is not hooked on the inside anymore
If so, what is the procedure or am I just doing something wrong. I didn't see a thread pretaining to all this.

Sidenote: Time is amazing how easily it slips by. I started this forever ago, but because it's a "spare ss" it never seems to get done.

mrhart wrote:Regarding the Quill, I watched the sawdust session and reviewed JPG's threads, but my issue doesn't seem to be addressed.
My quill worked fine when I took it apart, upon this reassembley, I'm not sure if the spring is ok.
with everything loose and I wind the handle a few turns as I saw in the video, I feel no "stopping" place as Nick describes. It just goes around and around. Does that mean it is not hooked on the inside anymore
If so, what is the procedure or am I just doing something wrong. I didn't see a thread pretaining to all this.

Sidenote: Time is amazing how easily it slips by. I started this forever ago, but because it's a "spare ss" it never seems to get done.

Probably!:(

Remove the quill shaft etc. and look into the spring housing. Getting it 'hooked' again can be frustrating. Forming the spring so that it will grip the shaft SLIGHTLY and wedge under the stud makes it much easier. Go easy with the 'forming' - it can break!

Once 'hooked' prevent it from slipping off!!!!! Easier said than done.