Evaluating thickness planer

wdelliott · Post by **wdelliott** » Tue Sep 04, 2012 6:06 am

I am asking for guidance on how to evaluate my SS thickness planer. My project is to plane black walnut. I am having difficulty taking any more off than about a 1/8th turn, which I believe is about a 1/128th. A 1/4 turn is 1/64th.

Is there a rule of thumb for determining when the planer blades need sharpening?

The noise level on this black walnut is terrifically loud. I'm wondering if this loud noise level for especially hard wood, such as this black walnut, is normal.

I'm getting it done, but the slowness and noise level make me wonder.

I welcome the thoughts of the experts. Thanks.

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Tue Sep 04, 2012 8:31 am

Check the owners manual of the planer where you'll find a chart telling you how deep you can cut on the Shopsmith depending on the type and width.

But if these boards are in the 6" range or so, you should easily cut much deeper than that what you're getting with sharp blades. In any event, perhaps it's time to resharpen them and then you'll have a starting point for understanding how the planer should cut.

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Tue Sep 04, 2012 8:35 am

P.S., here's a recent thread on honing the planer blades -- http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=11068

garys · Post by **garys** » Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:30 am

I find that black walnut planes fairly easy compared to the harder woods.
I have a cheap Chinese standalone planer, and last winter I planed a huge pile of Cherry. It also planes quite easy like walnut.
Oak makes my cheapie planer complain more, and a few years ago, I did a complete room in my house in hickory. The planer really screamed when planing hickory.
Before these big projects, I pull my blades and take them downtown to the man who sharpens them for me. Then the job goes fairly easy.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Sep 04, 2012 11:12 am

Any reason a visual(and 'tactile') inspection of the blades cannot be performed?;)

jimthej · Post by **jimthej** » Tue Sep 04, 2012 5:29 pm

[quote="JPG40504"]Any reason a visual(and 'tactile') inspection of the blades cannot be performed?]
With the work involved in really exposing the blades and feeling them, might as well sharpen them.

letterk · Post by **letterk** » Tue Sep 04, 2012 5:48 pm

jimthej wrote:With the work involved in really exposing the blades and feeling them, might as well sharpen them.

You mean lifting the cover and carefully feeling/checking the edges of the blades. Looking at them shouldn't take more than 60 seconds.

Big warning - UNPLUG THE TOOL FIRST!

brad_nalor · Post by **brad_nalor** » Tue Sep 04, 2012 6:02 pm

I don't have the SS planer but guessing my 13" Delta is close enough. Generally I can hear slight differences between hard and soft species and depending on the speed. To me, the hardwoods do indeed resonate louder. Are you feeding primarily with the grain or against it? Also, I prefer to run on the highest speed as it machines clean.

fjimp · Post by **fjimp** » Tue Sep 04, 2012 7:43 pm

brad_nalor wrote:I don't have the SS planer but guessing my 13" Delta is close enough. Generally I can hear slight differences between hard and soft species and depending on the speed. To me, the hardwoods do indeed resonate louder. Are you feeding primarily with the grain or against it? Also, I prefer to run on the highest speed as it machines clean.

I have a rigid 13" planer, no real issues with it. Yesterday I planed some red oak boards with a used Shopsmith planer I acquired a few years ago and only recently went thru making it shop ready.. The difference between the two planers is like day and night. The Shopsmith make far less noise, cuts smoother and the DC3300 collects 99% of shavings. I suspect its time for blades at the least and perhaps a good cleaning and blade alignment. Jim

cincinnati · Post by **cincinnati** » Tue Sep 04, 2012 8:42 pm

My guess you need to sharpen the blades. But first give the table a good coat of past wax and see if that helps.