Design ideas on making a strong door out of 2x4s ?

[jere]

Hi my grandfather recently gave me his 82 ss. My fist project is to make a new burglar proof door to secure the ss in the garage. The old door is a rotting mess, and big box doors give me the same uneasy feeling of security as the old door. I don't have much spare cash on hand for those doors either. I do however have a pile of 2x4 taking up space. So I have been thinking about using those. Does anyone have any design suggestions? It doesn't need to be pretty just tough.

[dusty]

FIRST - have you spoken with grandpa about this idea. He likely has a few ideas and also - would be pleased to know that the SS is being put to use.

A door made from 2x will be heavy. Is the casing that will have to carry this weight in good condition? If the door has deteriorated, the casing may have as well.

What besides the SS do you have to work with. Specifically, do you have a jointer. You will need to edge glue a number of 2x4 to achieve door width. Edge glueing is best done on jointed edges. However you cut them, make certain the cut is square to the face of the 2x (blade is square to the table).

I would recommend three heavy duty hinges.

Good luck with this project.

Pictures would be really nice.

Welcome to the forum. You have come to a good place for information.

[Lancer_28]

If you don't already have the tools to mount the door knob and lock, it may be just as cheap to buy a slab door at the local store.

Keep in mind that the casing is the weak point. You might consider rebuild of the casing using 2x6s or 2x4s keeping everything around the door as tight as possible.

Also you need dead bolt that extends at least 1" into the casing and screws of at least 3" for the associated hardware.

Ofcourse someone with bump keys can just walk in.

[jere]

Thanks for the helpful reply! My plan is to finish the first project and then let grandpa see it as kind of a surprise. Right now I know he is busy packing up for a move right now too.

I am pretty new to wood working as my garage has been dedicated to my project car. Most of my tools are wrenches and sheet metal hand tools. Now as for the jointer if you mean jointer as a planer , my grandfather also gave me a 12 inch planer that makes boards smooth. Otherwise there are just a stack of attachements to do moldings I think. I would really like to be able to post pictures right now but my computer doesn't get along with my camera at the moment. Some of them are square will those work?

You are right about the framework for the door it has a good amount of rot around the ground. I will have to find something other than 2x4s for that. That wood will attach to cinder blocks. Any recommendations on the best way to attach those? Liquid nails and/or masonry nails perhaps? Oh what what kind of glue would be best for the 2x4s?

[jere]

If you don't already have the tools to mount the door knob and lock, it may be just as cheap to buy a slab door at the local store.

Keep in mind that the casing is the weak point. You might consider rebuild of the casing using 2x6s or 2x4s keeping everything around the door as tight as possible.

Also you need dead bolt that extends at least 1" into the casing and screws of at least 3" for the associated hardware.

Ofcourse someone with bump keys can just walk in.

Thanks for the advice I put in locks and door knobs before so I know I can do that part at least.

I am with you on the deadbolt also right now the current door has a door knob that can be unlocked with skeleton key and a deadbolt thats just screwed onto the inside on the door. I have unlocked it with a library card before when I locked my keys inside. So just about anything will be better.

[beeg]

Jere welcome to the forum. Lots of info here for ya. As far as what is meant by a jointer, here's a pic of one.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/jointer.htm

It also seems to me that a door can be kicked in pretty easily.

[camerio]

In order to never again forget your keys inside, think of a handle or lock that required the keys to be locked, it is usually separate from the handle and has a longer dead bolt that goes into the frame ... but as already mentioned the frame must be good.
When I bought my first house, I lock myself out on the first day, the locksmith told me I needed the kind of lock that requires the keys to be locked, so that way I have never locked myself out ever.

[camerio]

You can always find a used door very cheap. Today, most places have used market or demolition outfit that sells second hand doors with the frame ... and sometimes those old doors are easy to refinish and are sturdier than new ones and could be in your budget ...
Just measure and know your prices from shopping around even on the internet.

[dusty]

Jere welcome to the forum. Lots of info here for ya. As far as what is meant by a jointer, here's a pic of one.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/jointer.htm

It also seems to me that a door can be kicked in pretty easily.

Not if it is made from laminated 2x4s and the hinges are put on right with screws that go well into the casement. Don't use your shoulder to ram the door!!

[jere]

Jere welcome to the forum. Lots of info here for ya. As far as what is meant by a jointer, here's a pic of one.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/jointer.htm

It also seems to me that a door can be kicked in pretty easily.

Ahh ok that's a jointer ! Thanks. I don't have one of those but it's nice to know I can pick one up in the future. Now I do have the two items below. Could they and the table saw get the job done?
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... oarbor.htm

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... erhead.htm

As far as kicking in the door the weak point there seems to me to be the frame where the bolt goes in or the door spitting itself. My plan for the frame bolt hole is to reinforce it with some steel plate and long screws rather than what they sell with the knob kits. As for the door itself I am not sure best route to take that's why I'm here.