Shopsmith Forums

A while ago I saw a video on setting up a Carter blade on one of two bandsaws. One thing the demonstrator did was adjust the upper blade tilt-something that is fixed on the Shopsmith bandsaw.

I contacted customer service over the weekend as I do not want to pass out incorrect information. Tech support isn't in yet; however they told me,"The bottom wheel is straight up and down the upper wheel is at a slight angle so the 1/4" blade rides to the back of the upper wheel. I do not know if you would call that coplanar."

So I went back further in my emails & found the email that I think is the proof of the pudding & where I made a mistake in the terms co-planer vs crowned"

The upper wheel of the Shopsmith is set at a fixed angle so the blade always runs to the back of the wheel.

The guy on the video talked about "crown" wheels. The Shopsmith has flat wheels not crowned wheels. The Shopsmith design causes the back of the blade to ride against the tracking roller in the bandsaw as well as the upper and lower back-up rollers above and below the table.

Shopsmith has never commented to me using the words planer/coplaner. The only word used was crowned- my mistake. Now I need to go check my wheels again as the other night, the appeared to be what I would call co-planer. This I believe now is not possible. Just wanted it to correct something I thought I understood. Thanks for not beating me up. Tony

[quote="backhertz"]A while ago I saw a video on setting up a Carter blade on one of two bandsaws. One thing the demonstrator did was adjust the upper blade tilt-something that is fixed on the Shopsmith bandsaw.

I contacted customer service over the weekend as I do not want to pass out incorrect information. Tech support isn't in yet]

You are safe. This forum never beats up on anyone.

backhertz wrote:Now I need to go check my wheels again as the other night, the appeared to be what I would call co-planer. This I believe now is not possible. Just wanted it to correct something I thought I understood. Thanks for not beating me up. Tony

Yes they can be co-planer, BUT that's knot what ya want. Ya want the top wheel bottom to be canted out. So that when ya place a straight edge vertically across the wheel, it's about an 1/8 in front of the bottom wheel.

beeg wrote:Yes they can be co-planer, BUT that's knot what ya want. Ya want the top wheel bottom to be canted out. So that when ya place a straight edge vertically across the wheel, it's about an 1/8 in front of the bottom wheel.

Opps, are we sure of this. My upper wheels are canted the other way. My upper wheel (top edge) is about 1/8" back.

dusty wrote:Opps, are we sure of this. My upper wheels are canted the other way. My upper wheel (top edge) is about 1/8" back.

HHHMMMM KNOW ya got me wondering.

beeg wrote:HHHMMMM KNOW ya got me wondering.

This is when I jump up and run out to the shop.

WARNING: Do not grasp the upper bandsaw wheel to attempt any change the angle of the upper wheel to the lower wheel. If the upper wheel needs to be tilted, remove the upper wheel and use a pipe on the upper bandsaw axle to bend/tilt the upper bandsaw arm. I built a jig that I was able to straighten some bent bandsaw wheels. Also Bandsaw blades do no track evenly or smoothly when the bandsaw wheel rim is bent.

I have a few badly bent upper bandsaw wheels that owners used their hands on the wheels to bent the upper bandsaw axle arm that I was unable to straighten or use on a working bandsaw.

beeg wrote:HHHMMMM KNOW ya got me wondering.

You and Dusty are saying the same thing, but differently.

Beeg: Place straight edge against the upper(canted) wheel and the straight edge will miss the top of the lower wheel.

Dusty: The top edge of my upper wheel is 1/8" back(when placing a straight edge against the lower wheel).

Both statements describe a properly canted upper wheel.


The bold type contains word(ing) implied but not actually stated originally.