Shopsmith Forums

I'm a new owner of a SS 520. And, fairly new to using the table saw.

When using my bench top table saw, I'd turn off the saw between rip cuts to remove the cut pieces.

However, turning off the SS is a bit more involved - turn down the speed, then turn off.

This seems like it will double my time ripping boards.

Is there another way?

Thanks,

Jim

Jim,

I'm sure others will jump on me, but I don't turn down the speed every time I turn off the machine. My rule is to never adjust the speed without the motor running and always turn down the speed before mounting the belt sanders or band saw.

I know this goes against what SS teaches, but I've been using mine for 50 years now without an issue.

jmoore65 wrote: Is there another way?

Thanks,

Jim

Yes turn it off, in 30+ years I have just turned if off and never had an issue. I am careful to make sure the speed is correct before changing function. The only one I can think of is the possibility of blowing a fuse if the circuit can't handle the startup current. My 520 is plugged into a 20 AMP circuit without
an extension cord so it is not an issue.

Greenvilleguy wrote:Jim,

I'm sure others will jump on me, but I don't turn down the speed every time I turn off the machine. My rule is to never adjust the speed without the motor running and always turn down the speed before mounting the belt sanders or band saw.

I know this goes against what SS teaches, but I've been using mine for 50 years now without an issue.

Doug - SURPRISE! I don't think anyone will do the jumping! Like Jim, for several years I turned down the speed from "P" to "Slow" every time I turned off the Mark V from a sawing operation. Also turned it down between drilling operations. During this same time, I wore out an idler shaft/ control sheave assembly. This wear was not because of the continuous sliding of the sheave assembly, but from lack of lubrication, while doing all the sliding!

When I replaced the sheave along with the "Short" Key, I discovered the only time this sheave and shaft wear is when the speed control is moved. After that episode, I stopped winding down every time before turning off the machine, and developed a system to insure regular lubrication. (Nothing like cosing the barn door after the animals escape!)

We have discussed this "winding down issue" earlier on the Forum. The consensus and recommendations (summary in my words) is:
Although there is more strain on the motor from starting up at higher speeds, it is not all that appreciable at mid to lower speeds.

The important concern over starting the Mark V at "Slow " speed is that the Mark V should always be started at "Slow" when attached to a Special Purpose Tool, such as the bandsaw or sander.

Also it stands to reason it is not good practice to continually start and stop the machine at "High" Speed.

Lessons I have learned are: Always check the speed control before connecting with a SPT - - and - - Regularly lubricate both shafts in the Mark V and Keep the Speed control clean and the worm and rack greased.

The business about turning the machine down to a slow speed is a leftover from the days when people's houses were wired with 14-gauge Romex in 15-amp, fuse-protected circuits. The old Mark V 500 came close to drawing 15 amps on initial startup with the speed in the high range and a blade attached.

Nowadays the standard is 12 gauge with ground leading to a 20 amp circuit breaker. The Shopsmith motor is more powerful, but also more efficient and the "draw" isn't quite as bad on initial startup. As long as you have up-to-date wiring and the Mark V is plugged in to a 20-amp circuit, you can dispense with the need to wind down after every cut. Just remember to wind down whenever you can modes or add an SPT, as others have mentioned.

If you do start tripping circuit breakers, you may be plugged into a 15-amp circuit. If this case, I'd suggest you go back to winding down every time you switch off and calling an electrician to update or augment the wiring in your shop.

With all good wishes,

With all good wishes,

Nick wrote:... If you do start tripping circuit breakers, you may be plugged into a 15-amp circuit. If this case, I'd suggest you go back to winding down every time you switch off and calling an electrician to update or augment the wiring in your shop...

Absolutely!!!! I'm constantly reading comments about how underpowered a Shopsmith is and usually the comment goes, "I always trip a breaker when I try to cut....."

Tripping a breaker is not a sign of an underpowered machine but rather a underpowered circuit. Breakers trip when the power draw exceeds their capacity, a motor draws more power when it is put under load. Any one can do the math, the problem is not the motor but rather the fact your using a circuit that does not have the capacity to supply the power you need.

The usual come back is when I plug my "xxx" saw in I can make the cut with no problem. All that is saying is the motor in the xxx saw does not draw enough power to trip the breaker. That can be for many reasons. Smaller motor, better power cord ( I think Shopsmith power cords are sized too small), the blade (kerf and sharpness), wood being cut, mechanical advantage (blade turns slower) and etc.

Ed

Why do you say " I think Shopsmith power cords are sized too small", have you had one melt? If the power cord was too small it would heat up, if the motor was undersized it would stall (or at least slow) or overheat. Popping the breaker is an issue of pulling too much current and that tended to happen at startup (when the tool is not under load) when the speed dial was set high.

Since plugging into a 20 AMP breaker I have not popped a breaker even when starting an 8 lbs Dadonator blade at sawing speed.

is an indication than current is being drawn in excess of the breaker rating.

The Shopsmith is rated at less than 15 amps; therefore, it should come up and run on a 15 amp breaker and mine will. If I connect a shop light to the same circuit, the light dims at startup but burns brightly otherwise. I seldom popped a breaker and when I did, I could usually tell you why.

Eliminating an extension cord, by installing a four foot longer power cord on the Shopsmith, reduced that issue to almost negligible. I only made it longer, I did not increase the size of the wire (14ga).

Installing a 20a circuit, dedicated to the Shopsmith, has eliminated the issue completely. If the lights dim now, I have a real problem.

I don't know how much "over current" the Shopsmith motor will withstand but the way my shop is now wired I have the ability to provide a 30% over current without tripping a breaker.

I must admit I waited before commenting on this issue, as like Doug, I was leary of getting jumped on.

Like most people I was winding down before stopping the machine but soon got tired of that and just started stopping in whatever speed I was in. Also like many have mentioned above, I adjust the speed before starting any operation, especially when changing to the band saw.

I learned from experience that starting the band saw at high speeds resulted in a good amount of dust being blown out of every crevice, especially if the dust collector is not turned on first.

My lights might dim momentarily but I have rarely tripped the breaker.

John

paulmcohen wrote:Why do you say " I think Shopsmith power cords are sized too small", have you had one melt? If the power cord was too small it would heat up, if the motor was undersized it would stall (or at least slow) or overheat. Popping the breaker is an issue of pulling too much current and that tended to happen at startup (when the tool is not under load) when the speed dial was set high.

Since plugging into a 20 AMP breaker I have not popped a breaker even when starting an 8 lbs Dadonator blade at sawing speed.

Paul I say that because the instant I changed the power cord on my Shopsmith from the 14 gauge standard power cord to a 12 gauge replacement power cord I noticed a marked improvement in overall performance.

Let me say though I never tripped a breaker before I changed the cord I did notice slight power issues with my Shopsmith. However since changing the power cord the power of my Shopsmith is an absolute non issue with me. I would describe the difference as significant.

I think the cost (whch is very low and simple to do) of swapping a power from a 14 gauge to 12 gauge is money well spent. I would do it again in an instant, that is how sold I'm on the difference I saw.
Ed