Shopsmith Forums

Hi,

This jig is based on the one presented here:

http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/1 ... ingjig.pdf

I've made a few changes. The runner has be sized for the shopsmith, it is just a little wider, the edge where the cuts are made has been redone with a piece of hardwood (which can be cut off and replaced if needed), the back rail is now flush with the top, and some starter slots were added for the t-nuts.

Some of this will be familiar as I used the this information for another thread on making hold downs.

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=10700

I'm not going to detail the build but I will show a few things that that I have changed.

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"A" is the cut side edge. I think this will be better for a couple of reasons but it did cover the slot openings... The edge can get under cut by way of different width blades, changes to the table position during readjustments, user error, when that happens you can re-trim a few times before doing a replacement. I should point out that is also the reason I did this to fit to the right of the blade, quill feed can reposition cut line pretty easy.

"B" is the thinner stock on these hold downs, this if for the stop function. On my previous build I went with the "C" thickness because of how I intended to use them. I made just 2 of these thin ones but I might make another pair if I can find enough scrap wood laying about.

"D" with the front now redone with a solid strip I was forced to make a wider slot to drop the t-nuts into. This change was after I started the build so they are not as clean a job as they could have been, but still functional.

"E" is the low rail. This allows for larger pieces to be done on the jig. If I start to see any warping then I might have to add another tall fence to counter act that but for now everything seems fine.

The runner was one of those guesses as to width. I have done other runners to have them swell to the point they no longer moved and this runner is about 33" inches long. I made it so it slides nicely... the future who knows. I should also point out I used maple for all of these sort of parts on the jig.

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After the runner is installed you can then run the sled using the miter slot to "size" the jig.

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Next post I'll show it in action, but most of the details are pretty easy to under stand.

Ed

Hi again,

Here I will show a simple cut for this jig. I have a board that I want to start a taper on 3" down from the end and I want to go from full width to taking off 1" at the bottom.

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This is an eyeballed 3" as is the 1" so if they look a little off they might be.

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You simply line up the 3" mark where the jig edge is and then do the same thing at the bottom. We will get into the stop and clamp feature in the next post.

Ed

Yes another part of the jig is to have a positive stop and then clamp the work piece in position.

First the stop works as shown here:

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Then the clamp is applied as shown here:

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In actual use you don't have the clamps off, just loose. I think it make the idea clearer when pictured is way but in use it is faster to keep them together.

Ed

One of the really cool parts of the jig comes into play when you want to taper a leg on all 4 sides, we will do that in a moment starting with the setup.

If you are getting lost on some of this please look back at the pdf as they have a good deal of information in there on the jig.

We are now going to set up to cut the leg. As you can see from here and from the reference pdf we have added some other hardware. Please note the brass pin that is shown. This pin will provide the support for the end of the leg. The height and location need to be setup to get the desired results.

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The end of the leg needs to be drilled to fit the brass pin in. If you can live with that hole then fine other wise you may need to make the leg a little longer and then trim it off later.

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When you have every thing set up and clamped you are ready for the first cut. This is a scrap of old wood I'm using here but you should get the idea.

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So here is the first cut. You now need to rotate the wood to do another face, the first 3 faces are easy on almost any jig.

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When you get to the 4 face you now have only tapered sides to mount with, this is when you have to tape a cut off wedge of some how support the end that is sticking up in the air. This jug uses the pin and it cut this with no issues at all. The next picture might help you see that issue better.

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I'm only going to cover one more function of the jig, that will be in my next posting.

Ed

Seems I had one more picture which really fits with the last set, but here it is in this post.

This is the leg with all four sides cut.

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This next set of pictures show how you would set up to cut a straight edge on a piece of "odd" shaped wood.

I didn't have a piece that looked like this so this is a simulation using cardboard. This is how it would work anyway.

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OK I think I'm done now.

Ed

Ed,
I like the modifications you made to the original plan. I had downloaded/filed the PDF you referenced a couple of months ago for a "when I need this type of jig".

Good job, and thanks for posting.

Bud

I'm not to sure why but this posting has a lot fewer reads then I expected so far. To simple to advanced to obscure....

After playing with it for a few days I'm really liking it. One thing I noticed was that there are some areas where having a full length stop might be better. So I added one.

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The slots in the bar also except t-nuts to help with clamping.

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Not so sure that was worth the extra effort but maybe time will tell a different story.

Ed

A fabulous build thread for a very useful and well designed jig.
Thanks a bunch, Ed.

You are so nice by doing those very useful threads for us.
Very well illustrated with those nice pictures that you do.
Posting a thread like that takes more than a few hours if we include the woodworking, taking pictures, conceiving the whole Jig, references and etc ....
Thanks for all this work.

reible wrote:Seems I had one more picture which really fits with the last set, but here it is in this post.

This is the leg with all four sides cut.

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This next set of pictures show how you would set up to cut a straight edge on a piece of "odd" shaped wood.

I didn't have a piece that looked like this so this is a simulation using cardboard. This is how it would work anyway.

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OK I think I'm done now.

Ed

Not sure how I missed this the first time around. I think the 'New Posts' search sometimes gives me credit that i did not expect. Anyway I always look forward to your next goodie