How to nail...without damaging wood?

teamtj · Post by **teamtj** » Wed Oct 10, 2012 3:44 pm

I am in the middle of building a coffee table.

I made a poor wood choice (my last projects were in high school wood shop 21+ years ago) and made it out of Pine, but I had purchased and cut the wood before I came to that realization, so I decided to continue.

I will need to nail 4 side pieces and 4 end pieces, but am afraid that I will damage the wood in the process because it is so soft.

Is there a way to avoid that damage?

Thanks!

rpd · Post by **rpd** » Wed Oct 10, 2012 4:08 pm

I am not a big fan of nails especially for furniture, so I think the answer is found in the question.

Don't use nails.

Use glue and pocket screws or biscuits or dowels.

wrmnfzy · Post by **wrmnfzy** » Wed Oct 10, 2012 4:42 pm

Nail gun if you have one, but I like the dowels, glue or pocket screws.

john · Post by **john** » Wed Oct 10, 2012 4:52 pm

I agree with the two previous replys, but there may be another way if you don't want to use dowels, etc

Use screws and then plugs to fill the hole. The plugs will show but sometimes a contrasting wood can add something to the project. If you are not familiar with this method, just ask.

Good luck.

John

SDSSmith · Post by **SDSSmith** » Wed Oct 10, 2012 4:59 pm

If you decide to nail, drive the nail leaving the head slightly exposed and finish with a nail set.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Wed Oct 10, 2012 5:00 pm

These answers (above) are all good solutions. When using nails to be hammered in by hand - make sure you hit the nail and not the wood.

My favorite nails are used with a nail gun. They make a small indentation in the wood that can easily be filled with a patch.

If you are using larger nails - pre-drill the holes before nailing. Even older pine (dry) furniture will split if not careful.

As for method; I would chose pre drilled holes and wood screws covered with plugs.

saminmn · Post by **saminmn** » Wed Oct 10, 2012 5:20 pm

Most will agree with rpd, but if you go with nails or nails and glue use finishing nails and nail set anywhere a hammer ding would show. For inept souls like me, drilling a pilot hole for the piece the nail goes clear through might help. For soft woods like pine a hole smaller than the nail shank will still help you get the nail started with just taps of the hammer. Too big a pilot hole and the finishing nail won't be able to hold. I have also seen a tip for starting nails and brads where the nail is pushed through a scrap of corrugated cardboard saving ones fingers from errant hammer blows. This approach might save the wood from a ding also.

I am one year since I restarted WW interest. HS shop class was over 50 years ago. One of my first projects last year was a small bench or footstool that used finishing nails and glue for its construction. The book I was using had me use wood filler over the nail holes. If the nail punch slips off the nail, it is just another hole to fill. If you get a ding in the wood, you may be able to raise it a bit with water. My bench was a painted item, so I did not half to match the filler to the wood. Project came out well except (for brush strokes in the paint).

Good luck on the project.

lv2wdwrk · Post by **lv2wdwrk** » Wed Oct 10, 2012 5:26 pm

Here is an option that might help you out.

http://www.ronhazelton.com/tips/how_to_ ... dium=email

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Oct 10, 2012 10:17 pm

With soft pine, a hammer ding(not a gouge) can be 'fixed' (maybe) by raising the grain(apply water to the indentation). Spit also works!:D

BTW nails hold structures together!;) 'Furniture', not very well.

One method is to 'carve' a groove(but leave cut out attached on one end), nail at the groove, then glue the cutout back over the nail. Gross, but better than filler etc.

teamtj · Post by **teamtj** » Wed Oct 10, 2012 11:15 pm

Not quite done (still need to attach the side rails <pocket screws and the nails that started this thread.>) but I think it looks pretty good...