Shopsmith Forums

I am setting up a bandsaw to resaw only. This saw has an aluminum table, cool blocks, Shopsmith brand Kreg fence and urethan rubber, upgraded ball bearings installed. When I adjusted for blade drift the fence must be set a an extreme angle. So extreme that the t slot is about 1/2 inch off. I tried to adjust the table so the tslot is equal but do not not have enough adjustment in the table mounting. The urethane tires seam the be loose and convex not flat. The cool blocks are very close but not touching the blade. I also am using a new 1/2 inch blade 3 tooth type. What up? Any comment will be appreciated.

RICK

Rick, how does the bandsaw resaw wood? If you're getting clean cuts without using excessive force to feed the stock, I wouldn't worry too much about the drift angle. The blade itself may be the cause of what you're experiencing, so if you have another blade to try you can see if things improve. You might also try adding or reducing the blade tension a bit. Those urethane tires should be snug on the wheels, but overtensioning the blade can stretch and ruin them.

Refer to this thread for a discussion on resawing and blade drift. Drift, to some degree, is natural with any blade not specifically designed/manufactured to overcome drift.

If you have a clean cut (clean enough for your use), I would not be concerned with the drift. Just adjust the fence to compensate.

Hello there my friend . Read this blog about tuning a band saw for resawing. here . It helped me out when I was tuning up my bandsaw.

#1: lose the urethane.

keakap wrote:#1: lose the urethane.

'Hard', 'cracked' rubber works better than squishey, melted/stretched urethane. JMHO!


On the 'good' side, they are easier to install! . . . . . . . . . Mixed Blessing.

JPG40504 wrote:'Hard', 'cracked' rubber works better than squishey, melted/stretched urethane. JMHO!


On the 'good' side, they are easier to install! . . . . . . . . . Mixed Blessing.

Urethane tires are really easy to install, lasts longer and doesn't need gluing.

When resawing it is a whole lot easier to use a single point fence rather than trying to adjust a bandsaw fence to the right angle. All drift is not caused by the blade alone. The changing patterns in the grain of the wood can also temporally alter the calculated drift, giving a narrow or wider cut in places.

To counter this situation, most professional woodworkers use a single point fence. With a single point the board can be shifted to compensate for any wavyness in the cut. Here is one available from Rockler. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=30327&site=ROCKLER

There is a very simple single point fence shown in the issue of Woodsmith received today - Vol 34/ 204. It is a board that can be clamped to the table and it contains an 1 1/2" vertical dowel that is used for the point.

charlese wrote:When resawing it is a whole lot easier to use a single point fence rather than trying to adjust a bandsaw fence to the right angle. All drift is not caused by the blade alone. The changing patterns in the grain of the wood can also temporally alter the calculated drift, giving a narrow or wider cut in places.

To counter this situation, most professional woodworkers use a single point fence. With a single point the board can be shifted to compensate for any wavyness in the cut. Here is one available from Rockler. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=30327&site=ROCKLER

There is a very simple single point fence shown in the issue of Woodsmith received today - Vol 34/ 204. It is a board that can be clamped to the table and it contains an 1 1/2" vertical dowel that is used for the point.

When you use a single point fence, do you still use a wide resaw blade?