Page 1 of 2
Jim McCann's Crosscut Blade Review
Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 8:44 pm
by letterk
The following was posted with the blade specials a week or so ago. I was surprised that it didn't come up in the forum here. I know that many people swear by Forest 40 tooth blades and truthfully, I've been using a 60 tooth blade for everything since it handles pywood without tear out, crosscutting and ripping, albeit slower then a dedicated rip blade. Now, with the shopsmith it is easier to have multiple arbors and blades setup, but what do others think about the 60 tooth as an all-in-one blade?
I'm going to throw a poll in here too.
Btw, the crosscut blade from Shopsmith is a 60 tooth carbide blade.
Jim McCann's Crosscut Blade Review
“This is clearly my new favorite sawblade! I first used it over two years ago to build a Greene & Greene style hope chest with complex joinery. Since its flat-topped teeth are ground just .006" below the tops of the ATB teeth, it not only makes splinter-free crosscuts, but also cut flat-bottomed grooves and dadoes ranging from 1/2" to 1-3/4" deep.
On this project, I used it to cut both solid cherry hardwood and veneered plywoods, all with super-smooth results, whether ripping, mitering or forming the shoulders and faces of tenons. This blade is nothing short of amazing.
After I completed the hope chest, I left the blade on my saw and used it to make a cherry quilt rack with shelf... another oak quilt rack, a 4' square shooting bench from pressure-treated lumber and a tough “Trex” top... even a mahogany funerary box that was loaded with complex compound miter cuts.
To tell the truth, I haven't switched to another blade since I started using this one well over two years ago because it cuts everything so well and so perfectly.
Who would have thought that a blade designed specifically for crosscutting could make virtually every type of saw cut so well?
I'm blown away... and you will be too!”
Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 9:15 pm
by charlese
For rough cuts, I use the SS combo blade. For sawing to size I will use either the SS rip blade or cross cut, depending on the use.
I have three combo blades, allowing me to always have a sharp one on hand. one of these has a 1/8" kerf and is also used as needed. The others are narrow kerf as are the cross cut and rip blades.
Blades
Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 10:58 pm
by claimdude
My go to blade is a WWII combo blade. I also have Tenyru combo and a Freud thin cut rip blade. I just bought a used RIP20 Forrest rip blade but haven't received it yet.
Jack
Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 11:02 pm
by mrhart
I hope it would be a good all around blade, mine is in Colorado headed this way. The blades I aquired have all had some use. I splurged and had to get at least one new blade, so based on that review and the e-mail, I ordered one.
Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 8:23 am
by claimdude
mrhart wrote:I hope it would be a good all around blade, mine is in Colorado headed this way. The blades I aquired have all had some use. I splurged and had to get at least one new blade, so based on that review and the e-mail, I ordered one.
MrHart,
Are you referring to the WWII?
Jack
Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 9:16 am
by mrhart
claimdude wrote:MrHart,
Are you referring to the WWII?
Jack
The 60 tooth crosscut blade from SS that the article was about. Hope it cuts like a hot knife through butter
Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 11:22 am
by terrydowning
I checked "It depends on the cut" as I'm a firm believer in using the best tool for the job. This includes handsaws, routers, scroll saws, band saw, you name it. Use the best/right tool for the job and you will be happier with the end result.
Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 11:51 am
by letterk
terrydowning wrote:I checked "It depends on the cut" as I'm a firm believer in using the best tool for the job. This includes handsaws, routers, scroll saws, band saw, you name it. Use the best/right tool for the job and you will be happier with the end result.
I figured quite a few people would be willing to switch blades, especially for the Shopsmith when you have multiple arbors. I've used the combination blade in the past quite a bit, but since I purchased my new table saw (1 3/4hp) I've been fond of the crosscut blade. I don't know if it would be the same if I had a 3 or 5hp, or a 3/4 Greenie but cut quality has always been good.
Now I admit that I've been cutting "white wood" and sheet goods and I haven't cut any of the hard maple or walnut that I have in my garage. They might make me change my mind. I've enjoyed the crosscut blade for the smoothness of the cut and for most 2x or thinner stock I haven't felt a slowdown.
I just thought this was interesting since Jim McCann seems to be saying that a crosscut blade might also be considered a combination blade.
Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 12:10 pm
by algale
I have a Forrest WWII (full kerf) and the Shopsmith combination carbide blade (thin kerf). In my observations, the WWII is superior in terms of tear out and I use it for most through cuts. But the Forrest's high ATB design which lacks a raker leaves a pronounced "M" in the bottom (or is it the top?)of any non-through cut. So for non-through cuts I switch to the Shopsmith combination blade.
Algthough this poll isn't about dados, I also have to put in a plug for the Infinity "Dadonator" dado blade which is outstanding. I have the 8 inch version which is a very heavy beast but the Shopsmith spins it up no problem. Very flat bottom dados and rabbets.
Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 1:24 pm
by pennview
You have a couple of choices from Forrest who make a blade capable of making a near flat kerf where every fifth tooth is a raker set at .010" below the ATB teeth. You need to order a Woodworker II with a #6 grind. They also make one that makes a perfectly flat bottom kerf, the Woodworker II with a #1 grind.
Forrest also sells a Woodworker II blade with the 1 1/4" hole that costs about $20 more than the conventional blade.