Shopsmith Forums

I just replaced the power cord to my mid-1980's model Mark V 500 as the original cord was missing the grounding post and all chewed up. When I first got the Shopsmith the motor would not come on, nor made any noise, so first things first, take everything apart, clean it, and replace power cord. At this point, everything has been taken apart and cleaned, and I blew out all the sawdust in the motor. The motor is an Emerson. On to power cord replacement, and what I did touch, and did not touch.

I bought a 14gauge 3 prong 9ft power tool replacement cord rated for 15amps from HomeDepot yesterday and necessary connector tabs. My motor has a cord with a black and a white wire that runs from the motor to the switch, and then another cord with a black, a white, and a green ground wire that runs from the switch to the plug in to the socket. I did not touch the wires that run from the motor to the switch as they look ok visually. I did disconnect each connector tab one at a time to check the condition of the tab and connector, then reattached before going to the next. The part I replaced with the power cord part that plugs into the wall and runs to the switch. I crimped new connectors on the wires, connected the white and black to the switch, and attached the green ground to the motor. I plugged it in, switched it on, and again nothing. No hum, no noise. I used the AC volt detector shown below, and it indicated power was going along the wires from the wall socket to the switch but nothing from the switch to the motor. Before I start thinking of replacing the switch now, I was hoping someone could look at how the switch is hooked up to make sure I did it right.

The volt detector.


I have what I think is known as the B type toggle switch.


This is the back of the toggle switch. Do I have this hooked up right? I have marked in the photo which wires run from the motor to the switch, and which ones run from the part that plugs into the socket to the switch. The connector tabs with the blue plastic are the new tabs that I bought and crimped on. They are on the wires that run from the wall socket plug to the switch.


This is the green ground wire that is from the power cord portion that goes from the socket plug in to the switch. I have it attached to the screw that the original power cord ground wire was attached.

It is hooked up correctly; however, I do not run the whites through the switch. I simply connect the two white wires (that you have going to the switch) together.

What this does is provide a spare switch.

Using your voltage detector, does it sense a voltage on both sides of the switch (both black wires)? Switch it on and off to test the switch.

Does anything at all happen when you apply power? Did you open the motor to clean it or did you just blow it out?

One thing you could try i to bypass the switch with jumper wires (wires of the same gauge with alligator clips on both ends). Obviously use caution in doing this so you don't get shocked - I'd hook up the jumpers with power disconnected and then turn on the power to see if the motor kicks in. Alternatively, with the power disconnected you could just connect each of the connector tabs (black to black and white to white) with either a short piece of wire with a crimped on male tab on each end or a longer male tab that would fit in both female connectors. Basically, you are getting the switch out of the loop and then using the wall plug as your on/off switch. Obviously this is only for a quick test to see if the motor kicks in with the switch bypassed.

[quote="dusty"]It is hooked up correctly]

When I flip the switch, there appears to be nothing happening to the motor. No noise, no hum, no movement. There is power going from the wall socket to the switch, but no power, i.e. voltage detector does not light up and make noise, along the black wire from the switch to the motor.

Also I just blew the dust out of the motor. I removed several screws but could not get the motor housing open. Is there a certain way to open the motor?

When you say there is no power along the black wire from the switch to the motor I presume you mean no voltage on that wire. If that is the case then either replace the switch or jumper the switch out as described in a previous post and test he motor. (Dgale's post)
Bill V

Tomorrow I will try to find either the jumper wires or male blade connectors to try the switch bypass. In the meantime, I did get the motor case open. Before I just took out the four long screws, but could not get anything to budge. This time I did that, but also give the housing a couple of gentle taps with a rubber mallet. The motor came out and all inside was clean.

This is a task for an ohm meter or a continuity light, not a 'voltage detector'.

Checking for continuity under power is risky at best.

From your description, my thinking is the switch is bad.



I am curious if the 'voltage detector' indicated anything on the white wires.


P.S. In the motor ground wire pix, the 'cord' to the motor appears to be cut. ????

I tried to check the white wire, but since it is so close to the black wire I thought that maybe the voltage detector was picking up the black wire. With it pluged in I was not about to touch the wires to seperate them with my hands.

In the past the most electrical work I have ever done is replace face plates on light switches and wall sockets. Today was the first time I have ever touched wire.

In regards to "cut"cord to the motor, the black outer insulation that houses the black and white wire is solid. There is a like a permanent bend in the cord I think from how it was situated in the motor pan. Do you see another cut or something out of place that I do not notice?

rdavidp wrote:....In the past the most electrical work I have ever done is replace face plates on light switches and wall sockets. Today was the first time I have ever touched wire.

Well, you seem to be doing a fine job, I would suggest getting an OHM meter and checking the cord and switch for continuty, WITH THE CORD UNPLUGED. As jpg pointed out I would tend to guess it is your switch but an ohm meter will help tell for sure. Also a new cord and a good cord may be two different things...