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Advice on waxing tubes and other SS parts
Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 10:46 am
by dgale
I have a big tin of the Minwax Paste Finishing Wax and am overdue to give my machine a waxing...I read the alignment and maintenance booklet that SS sent to me and all it really says about this is to apply sparingly and buff out. So I thought I'd check with others on what their preferred approach to this is - I assume I just apply with a lint-free shop towel but what do people advise for the buffing part? Also, my plan was to wax the bench and way tubes, support tubes, and quill, but I noticed the SS booklet mentioned waxing the main and extension table surfaces, miter gauge slots and bar, and both sides of rip fence. Any advice on all of this? I definitely want to do a thorough maintenance job on my machine as it's overdue to say the least but am a bit worried about residual wax being on things like the tables, rip fence etc.
Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 10:53 am
by pennview
I use paper towels (Bounty) to buff off the dried wax. I also use Minwax wax, but many prefer Johnsons paste wax. You should wax everything you mentioned including the tables and fence, which make your lumber glide over the table surfaces. Buffing removes whatever residue is there after application. If you have a jointer, planer, or bandsaw, wax on the tables and fences should be done as well.
Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 10:54 am
by JPG
I apply with fingers! I buff with what ever is handy
(clean rag preferred).
Body heat(from the fingers) helps liquify the wax for coverage.
Main thing is to get an even, thin coat.
Ever shined shoes? Same thing. Same wax!
Everything slides smoother when waxed.
Table tops - make sure there is no residual 'soft'(paste).
Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 11:01 am
by dgale
Okay, thanks - so nothing fancy in terms of applying and buffing - just don't over-apply and then buff off with a rag to remove excess. Thanks for the reminder on the jointer and bandsaw (and jigsaw for that matter) - I wasn't even thinking about those.
I got a good laugh out of the shoe shining reference - hadn't thought about it in years but shining all of my days shoes every week was one of my many childhood chores...of course there I used all sorts of horsehair brushes and whatnot for buffing and no matter how hard I buffed, my Dad would come by and find some flaws and tell me to keep at it. Man, my kids have it way too easy today - time to go ratchet up their chores for the day in honor of my Dad

Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 12:39 pm
by randyrls
To join the thread; I use Boeshield T-9 spray can on the tables, and fences. It works well and the small amount used will last forever. It is a solvent and small amount of paraffin wax.
Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 12:46 pm
by beeg
Don't forget to wax the holes that the support tubes go into.
Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 12:52 pm
by dgale
beeg wrote:Don't forget to wax the holes that the support tubes go into.
Any tips on how to effectively do that?
Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 1:14 pm
by heathicus
[quote="randyrls"]To join the thread]
Isn't that an anti-rust spray? I bought a small can of that to coat hard to reach areas that don't get frequent attention (such as the bars that hold the bench tubes in place). In my experience, it leaves sort of a tacky, not quite "gummy" surface. Not really sticky, but definitely not slick. I still prefer the Johnson's Paste Wax to any surfaces where things need to slide.
Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 2:52 pm
by saminmn
dgale wrote:Any tips on how to effectively do that?
I use 1/4" smaller dowel with rag over it to buff excess.
Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 3:17 pm
by beeg
dgale wrote:Any tips on how to effectively do that?
I just use a small rag to apply the wax in the holes. After it's dry I use a hand towel to pull up and down through the hole to buff it out.