Shopsmith Forums

mountainbreeze wrote:Interesting...

I never thought one would use the plunge base in a router table. It's not clear to me why that would be better than the fixed base. Guess I'll have to do more research.

Ed in Tampa wrote:Not to derail the thread Router Recommendations I started a new one. Yea! Ed! See I am learning

Thanks Ed!

I'm wondering why people like combo routers for router stand usage.
I think the best base in a router stand is the plunge base since it is easiest to adjust, that leaves the fixed base for hand routing, which is okay but again plunge is nicer.

I can see your point for some router tables, I have one that I attach my 3-1/2 hp router to and it is a full time plunge router. The router has a top adjustment for setting the height. The router also mounts directly to the top of the router table.

I have for the most part used it by taking the springs out so I don't have to fight them. However if I want to work with it out of the table you have to put the springs back in... more effort, less fun but it works.

This is the only set up I have like this. All of the rest I use a fixed base in the table. Since I have a few arrangements that are table inserts I keep the fixed bases on the plate and move the routers to where I want to use them. Having the old OPR I keep the top router in place, held by the OPR, this freed up the fix base to be used else where. The lower router is also always mounted and on a fixed base. I have an oak-park table with a fixed base mounted to it. I have a jointech table with fixed base mounted. My shopsmith joint-matic has a fixed base mounted.... Well you get the idea.

I have a "kit" that I keep for "have router will travel" situations. It has both a fixed and plunge base because it nice to have the option.

For my 690's I have standard bases and purchased at a premium both a plunge and a D-handle. A year or so ago sears was getting rid of the dewalt 618's for about $40, I picked one up but ended up getting a plunge base to complete the set. The plunge base is about $100. I really like the option of selecting which base I want to use.

When I picked up a compact router I went with the dual bases again. Just can't help myself.

Also most combo don't have a really good way to height adjust the router in the stand where most standalone plunger routers do.

Most of my fixed base routers are adjusted by unlocking and turning the router then relocking. Sees to be a easy straight forward way to do things. Plus they have visable marking that you can zero then twist to set the depth.

Most combo router combinations will allow the router to fall out of the base when the collar locking strap is opened to make a height adjust so you have to hold the motor.

I have only one router that has the fall through feature. It is one from 1976 with a twist knob heigth adjustment. I did use it for many years and never had it happen but it worried me. It is now retired from table duty.

The others have a interlock where you have to raise the the router to get past the threads to take it out. Simple and easy to do and a whole lot safer.

Also if you buy an after marker height adjuster (one that doesn't use the original base) you now have two bases and router motor tied up in the router table.

I realize I made some generalizations here but to me combos usually end up costing more than buying a router to use by hand and one to use in a router table.

I think we have looked at this before. If you buy two different routers, one cheap fixed base and another plunge base it might be cheaper but if you get a name brand router with fixed base and want to upgrade by adding a plunge base it will cost you more. I've had to do that several times and paid for it each time. If you ever expect to need both a fixed and plunge base get them at the same time.

If someone is looking for a router to use in the stand I would say check these items.
1. Power usually a table router should have the highest power you can get.
1a. A lot of tables will not let you use big bits. If the table limits you to a 2" bit you will not need the extra power.
2. Ease to release plunge mechanism from above the table.
2a. Unless you go with a fixed base in which case this is not needed.
3. Ability to raise collet above table level to ease changing of bits.
3a. I like to pull the router out and use the two hand wrench squese to remove and tighten the bits so I don't like or use this feature.
4. Ability to raise and lower bit height from the top side of the table.
4a. Unless you have enclosed your router motor it is just as easy to twist the router for height adjustments.
5. Air intakes, many routers have unprotected air intakes on the bottom of the motor when turned upside down wood dust tend to readily fall into the air intakes.
6. Ease to use speed control adjuster when router is mounter upside down in table.
7. Locking collet that can be locked and unlocked easily while in the table.
8. Wide range of collets so all bit sizes can be used.
9. Round motor so the router can eventually be mounted in an OEM router table height adjuster (most if not all require round motors)
10. Base shielding for dust control. With the router upside down some of the dust deflectors are nearly useless.

My biggest frustrations were router motors that fell out of the base when the height adjusting lock was released, motors that hide the start and speed controls when the router was upside down, routers that had poor poor dust control when used upside down, and lastly routers that had to be removed from the table to make bit changes. Hated them and thankfully I have sold all of them off in garage sells or thrown them across the shop into the wall.

Love Hitachi, most Porter Cable and Triton routers. And I will not buy a combo, when I sit down and do the math they cost far more.

Funny that when I do the math it works out the other way. So people YOU do the math before you purchase.

berry wrote:I guess that’s why the crayon box has more than one color. Individuals see value differently.

A person could purchase a decent router with a fixed base or plunge from $90 to $180. So if one purchases one of each at the median price $135 - times 2 routers – you’re looking at $270 before tax and or shipping. The Bosch combo set I’ve had for a couple years cost under $200 at Amazon. So, from my perspective, I’ve saved a few bucks and have most of the advantages of both types or routers.Those of us on a budget think this is important.

I’ve found the 2 ¼ hp more than adequate for my needs, but I don’t make raised panel doors. But for tongue and groove joints, rabbits, picture frame moldings, dados, mortising etc. this motor size works fine.

I use my combo router in the fixed base mode exclusively in a router table. In fixed base mode the motor has two releases, so if it is position in a router table, it does not immediately fall out when the cam-lock is opened. However, releasing the cam-lock allows the user to adjust bit height from above the table. (There are about 11-12 combo kits on the market now and about half allow lowering and raising the bit from above.)

Given that the motor is moving from one base to another – it’s a feature that they slide in and out of the base housing simply and easily.

I always add and remove bits with the router lying on router table with the router table insert plate attached. Bosch uses the two wrench system which is fine. I’ve used the spindle lock system and that’s fine too.

I use my combo router with the plunge base for all above the work routing. Cutting rabbits, flush trimming, dados, profiling and so on.

I don’t think my combo unit is perfect. I miss having the switch on the handle, the thumb lock on the plunge can be difficult for my size hands, if you use the fixed base for above work routing it’s top heavy.

But I still thinks it’s good value for the money and I’m glad all the crayon’s in the box aren’t red.