Shopsmith Forums

I have finally did what I consider, a prime component breakdown so I can start cleaning. I have a ton of images and some video.
1 funny thing I ran into was how far do I take down the corrosion of the 10ER? I did not know original color. I am however changing its paint scheme to a copper or black. The way tubes will remain their polished ways.

Anyways...The original (real) 2"x4" table, tail stock, carriage, way tubes, saw table, base plate, and base plate arm are all 95% clean. Not the legs yet. I used many methods of chemical baths, electrolysis, steel wool, elbow grease and lots of free buzzes due to the chemicals.

I did make sure all components that touched(metal to metal) were shiny and lubed for reduced friction. I also replaced all hardware to fit an 1/8" allen head so 1 tool fits the whole system in any event of changing out the footprint of the table.

I also switched out the old prime power system switch with an illuminated bump guard toggle. I did this due to the fact I was worried about how many more "throws" it had.

I also have started the Arduino board mock up for the tach I am making. It will include a thermostat. I just have great concerns about the thermal eveloping in the head stock. I promise, to all who cares(all 2 of you) I will have pics and vid up in under a day.

I did find 1 integrity issue. The head stock pulley has a crack 40% around the base of the largest pulley.
Another issue is the quill spring seems to have no memory left.

What is the metal I am actually working with on the saw table and accessories? I have learned a valuable lesson of wire wheels and the material. I left a gouge and am looking for a better way to clean it.

This all sounds like wives tales but I promise pics and vids soon.

The tables are aluminum. Most everything else is cast iron. And I'd be very interested in seeing the pics!

These are all after pics. Due to my OCD its part of a categorization that I have to do to manage all parts.
This includes this montage is my base plate, headrest, and tail stock.

These pics are of my tie bar, carriage way tubes and tables.


Thank you for your reply on the metallurgy. That is extremely helpful. Thank you again.

The saw table

Any idea what the screw in the carriage was for? In the bottom right corner of your picture of it, next to the way tube hole.

That screw holds together some poor guys electrical drop for his bungaloo in Germany. Every time I turn it his lights start to go on and off.

To be somewhat serious...No, I do not have a clue what the screw is for. It has no "corrosion" footprint as if at 1 time held something there. However there are a plethora of mysterious hardware through out this machine. In replacing all hardware that gets me somewhat intimate with all of the the primary pieces and helps with the discerning of the tertiary ones.

On the Shopsmith itself, when it comes to painting...Would you use a primer before rattlecan-ing it? I know what I would want to do but did not know if that would complicate anything down the road. Again I am referring to the painted pieces already none of the tables and periphs(aluminum).

What did you find that works best for cleaning your aluminum parts?

I find myself somewhat savvy on multiple levels and computers being one however I am embarassed to ask...
HOW DO I UPLOAD A VIDEO?

Thank you very much for your help.

heathicus wrote:Any idea what the screw in the carriage was for? In the bottom right corner of your picture of it, next to the way tube hole.

My guess would be a base for the ss light might have been installed there or something like that.

Bad_Synapse_Labs wrote:On the Shopsmith itself, when it comes to painting...Would you use a primer before rattlecan-ing it? I know what I would want to do but did not know if that would complicate anything down the road. Again I am referring to the painted pieces already none of the tables and periphs(aluminum).

If your headrest is aluminum (earlier ones were cast iron, but they changed them to aluminum at some point) you might want to prime it with some self-etching primer. Otherwise, I don't think it matters. When I painted my second ER, I primed some pieces, left others un-primed as an experiment and I can't really tell a difference in the final product.

Bad_Synapse_Labs wrote:What did you find that works best for cleaning your aluminum parts?

Depends on how bad it is. Maybe some high-grit wet/dry sandpaper? A brass wire or nylon brush wheel on a drill? What are you hoping for - clean and smooth, or mirror finish?

Bad_Synapse_Labs wrote:I find myself somewhat savvy on multiple levels and computers being one however I am embarassed to ask...
HOW DO I UPLOAD A VIDEO?

Thank you very much for your help.

As far as I know, you can't upload a video the forum. You'll have to upload it to YouTube or some place similar then post the link here.

To everyone who has replied, Thank you very much for all intel.

Everyone's experience is and will be utilized on my end.

My Headrest is cast iron. Funny thing is that going over the attachments for this post I noticed the corrosion on the headrest. Battling corrosion has been a constant battle. A lot of lessons have been learned so far.

As for the aluminum, I have carriage bolts I want to really put a great amount of attention to detail to. This goes for all Aluminum parts. I have already did about 3 hardcore cleanings to main saw table(both underneath and topside) and still not happy. Understand the table is a workhorse and will eventually get "beauty marks". I am trying to find the most efficient way to clean these aluminum pieces and I am doing this study via process of elimination.

Also...I am in the beginning process of custom knobs and face plate for my 10 ER using my 3D printer. If interested or know how to build up your CAD I just need .STL file and will be more than happy to help. Hell, if you're interested about 3D printing and Shopsmith send me a shout.