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Shorty / mini sizes

Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 9:37 pm
by robinson46176
I want to cut my two restored Mark V's down as Shorties. I was looking at them tonight to decide the length I want them. I was searching the forum to see if I could find length discussions but for some reason I didn't find much. The Shopsmith fairies must be angry. :rolleyes:
I'm thinking about cutting 16" off of them. I might want to go a few inches shorter but is easier to cut a bit more off than add some back on. :)


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Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 10:03 pm
by beeg

Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 10:29 pm
by fjimp
robinson46176 wrote:I want to cut my two restored Mark V's down as Shorties. I was looking at them tonight to decide the length I want them. I was searching the forum to see if I could find length discussions but for some reason I didn't find much. The Shopsmith fairies must be angry. :rolleyes:
I'm thinking about cutting 16" off of them. I might want to go a few inches shorter but is easier to cut a bit more off than add some back on. :)
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I cut 18" off of one of mine and created a free standing over arm pin router. I quickly discovered a lack of balance and am forced to use two steady legs to support the table in an upright position. No I do not have a headstock on it. Jim

Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 11:54 pm
by backhertz
Contact Bill Mayo on the forum. He is the man.

Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 9:23 am
by pennview
If it's a model 500, cutting off 16" will allow you to operate all five functions of the Shopsmith. Plus, you'll be able to attach the belt sander and the disk sander at the same time and still get a bit of quill action for the sanding disk. As I recall, you'll get about 19" ripping capacity and the same for spindle turning. The drill press is a bit squat, however, but still usable.

If it's a later model Shopsmith, you'll need to cut off less because of the wider tables and longer length of the sanding disk's hub. To get a good fit, you could install the belt sander, then the disk, then slide the work table to within an inch of the disk, then install the auxiliary table, then measure the gap between the two tables, subtract about an inch from that measurement for wiggle room, and cut off that much from each tube.

Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 9:48 am
by fredsheldon
fjimp wrote:I cut 18" off of one of mine and created a free standing over arm pin router. I quickly discovered a lack of balance and am forced to use two steady legs to support the table in an upright position. No I do not have a headstock on it. Jim
I had the same issue. I now store my joiner on the opposite end to keep some balance.