Hand Plane Class
Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 8:42 am
There are so many ways we learn woodworking. Magazines. TV shows. Podcasts. Books. Web Forums. Trial and error. I’m sure I left a few out. Last weekend I decided to take a class at Mike Siemsen’s School of Woodworking just outside of St Paul. The full weekend class was broken into 3 sections. (1) Sharpening Chisels, Plane Irons and Scrapers. (2) Tuning Hand Planes. (3) Using Hand Planes. It was a great way for me to learn about planes and scrapers and meet some nice people too. I feel a lot of the mystery of hand planes has been cleared up for me.
I had never used a scraper before. Using a file, sandpaper taped to glass and a burnisher we were able to get the scraper set up with the proper burr. I’m looking forward to putting this to work in my shop.
I finally understand what planes I should buy. I actually was able to buy a very nice Stanley No. 4 smoother from Mike for $25, which I then proceeded to sharpen and tune for the rest of the class.
Mike owns hundreds of planes of all shapes, sizes and type. He demonstrated many of them to us but pointed out the 3 basic planes we need. I added a 4th to my list.
1) A Fore plane like a Stanley No. 26 with a curved blade. Could substitute a jack plane. The curved blade removes a lot of material quickly.
2) A Try Plane Like a Stanley No. 8 for jointing the edge or flattening the face after the rough work is done with the Fore plane.
3) A Smoothing plane like a Stanley No. 4 to make a very smooth surface after steps 1 and 2 above. Needs no sanding, maybe a little scraping.
4) I added a low angle block plane to my list, like a Stanley No. 60 ½. Very useful for so many things.
Mike edge joined 2 large white pine boards with hide glue the second morning. He made sure each edge was perfect, laid one board on edge in the side clamps of his joiner’s bench, applied the hide glue to both boards, then just set the second board in place on top of the first, no clamps. Toward the end of the afternoon he surprised us all by kicking the top board hard. The board broke, not the glue joint.
I’m sure I left a lot out but I would encourage everyone to get out of the shop and take a class some time.
I had never used a scraper before. Using a file, sandpaper taped to glass and a burnisher we were able to get the scraper set up with the proper burr. I’m looking forward to putting this to work in my shop.
I finally understand what planes I should buy. I actually was able to buy a very nice Stanley No. 4 smoother from Mike for $25, which I then proceeded to sharpen and tune for the rest of the class.
Mike owns hundreds of planes of all shapes, sizes and type. He demonstrated many of them to us but pointed out the 3 basic planes we need. I added a 4th to my list.
1) A Fore plane like a Stanley No. 26 with a curved blade. Could substitute a jack plane. The curved blade removes a lot of material quickly.
2) A Try Plane Like a Stanley No. 8 for jointing the edge or flattening the face after the rough work is done with the Fore plane.
3) A Smoothing plane like a Stanley No. 4 to make a very smooth surface after steps 1 and 2 above. Needs no sanding, maybe a little scraping.
4) I added a low angle block plane to my list, like a Stanley No. 60 ½. Very useful for so many things.
Mike edge joined 2 large white pine boards with hide glue the second morning. He made sure each edge was perfect, laid one board on edge in the side clamps of his joiner’s bench, applied the hide glue to both boards, then just set the second board in place on top of the first, no clamps. Toward the end of the afternoon he surprised us all by kicking the top board hard. The board broke, not the glue joint.
I’m sure I left a lot out but I would encourage everyone to get out of the shop and take a class some time.