Shopsmith Forums

The Shopsmith mitre gauge slot, and the channel along the top of the saw table fence is notionally 3/4 inch, as seems standard for most manufacturers of woodworking accessories. Except the Shopsmith versions are fractionally narrower than 3/4 ins, so no accessories other than Shopsmith will fit - and before discovering that I bought quite a few non Shopsmith accessories.

So do I attempt to modify each of my bought accessories, or try to widen the Workshop slot and channel? I think that the Shopsmith mitre gauge would still work in a slightly widened slot, having some built in adjustment. I am less sure about Shopsmith's fence mounted feather board, or the tenon jig.

And if widening the Shopsmith slot and channel seems appropriate, how best to do that accurately?

IIWM, I would NOT modify the SS slots(not enough material to retain structural strength and machining accuracy must be perfect).

That said, the existing stuff needs to be looked at to determine how to accommodate the narrower slot. The obvious choices are to either replace the existing bar or mill it narrower. The first is more desirable, but the second is more realizable.

A hard decision to be sure!;)


Or trade yer Mark V for a 10ER!:D

mbinmk wrote:The Shopsmith mitre gauge slot, and the channel along the top of the saw table fence is notionally 3/4 inch, as seems standard for most manufacturers of woodworking accessories. Except the Shopsmith versions are fractionally narrower than 3/4 ins, so no accessories other than Shopsmith will fit - and before discovering that I bought quite a few non Shopsmith accessories.

So do I attempt to modify each of my bought accessories, or try to widen the Workshop slot and channel? I think that the Shopsmith mitre gauge would still work in a slightly widened slot, having some built in adjustment. I am less sure about Shopsmith's fence mounted feather board, or the tenon jig.

And if widening the Shopsmith slot and channel seems appropriate, how best to do that accurately?

I DO NOT recommend altering the width of the miter slots in any of the Shopsmith equipment. Doing so may weaken the item being modified. The rip fence might be stout enough but I still would not do that.

The much easier modification would be to mill down the miter bar to fit the "Standard Shopsmith" miter slot which is 47/64" wide. Mill 1/64" off most 3/4" miter bars and you have a fit (maybe still snug but a fit). Mill another 1/64" off and you have a sloppy fit.

I wonder how that modification could affect resale options or value. I for one would suggest leaving them alone. Jim

fjimp wrote:I wonder how that modification could affect resale options or value. I for one would suggest leaving them alone. Jim

It all depends on what you bought the tools for: to use them or to resell them. If you bought them to use them then make the adjustments and when you resell them (along with your Shopsmith?) you shouldn't have a problem.

mbinmk wrote: And if widening the Shopsmith slot and channel seems appropriate, how best to do that accurately?

I do remember someone saying that they bought the Incra sled that has the built in T-tracks so they could use their other accessorizes. I "think" the gauge that comes with it has a standard width bar.

I did see an L shaped jig that was made to bolt on to the Shopsmith fence that has Rockler T-tracks on both faces so that he can use standard accessories (feather boards and a roller clamp that stops kick back) but that doesn't solve your problems with the table.

Lastly, I'm certain that I would NOT do this, but when talking to a local machinist (sp?) about widening the slots he said that for him to do it would be expensive but if I had A LOT of spare time I could get some long diamond honing stones that would fit within the slots and use them to widen the slots to fit conventional accessories. I presume it would be like using a long hand plane to flatten a board where the length helped prevent dips and such. When I asked about how long a lot of spare time would be, he said hours and hours. He said creating a jig to hold the stones at the 90 degree angle for the table would be simple but plan on working one side and then the other and counting stokes to get the distance from the center equal would be a good thing. Not certain the T-slot in the table would be wide enough for other miter bars either so then you would have to find a way to grind it, too.

A 'way' to mill down the 'wide' bars is to use the disc sander similar to sand disk jointing a board. The bar would need to be separated from whatever it is attached to. Very light passes alternating sides. Shallow 'fence'. Table/way tube protection. A good way to hold the bar while grinding.

Not easy but not expensive either. Only about 0.010 need be removed from each side.

I do not recommend 'honing' aluminum!

JPG40504 wrote: Not easy but not expensive either. Only about 0.010 need be removed from each side.

I do not recommend 'honing' aluminum!

Why take from both sides? How about 0.020" from one side. Seems to me - exact centering by 0.010" in the slot is not necessary.

charlese wrote:Why take from both sides? How about 0.020" from one side. Seems to me - exact centering by 0.010" in the slot is not necessary.

Depends upon what the bar is attached to. Very well may not matter.

More than likely the bar will have a finish(blox/plating...) that may or may not affect things.

I just like symmetry!:)

I would add a honing step to the bar so as to get a smoother surface sliding against the aluminum table slots.

Comes a point when salvaging the existing stuff becomes too cumbersome.

An alternative would be to sell the 'standard' stuff on e-bay or cl and get ss versions if possible.

Wouldn't the easiest solution be to buy some of these and fit them to the accessory in question?
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/swd_slidingmiterbars.htm

$25 per accessory would be much cheaper than taking to a machinist not to mention a lot less tome consuming and more accurate than trying to "make it fit".

Just a thought.