Shopsmith Forums

I have a 10ER I'm fixing up, and the caster assembly needs some work. The two rods running through each assembly have caked on rust and I'd like to take the whole assembly apart so I can really clean the whole thing up good.

It looks like both ends of each rod, as well as the lever/handle, are held in by some type of expanding rivet-like fastener. Does that sound correct? Is there a trick to getting those out, or should I just spray with PB Blaster and pound away with a drift? I'm trying not to destroy anything, and this is the only part of the machine I'm getting my mallet near so best to ask first.

I restored a set of these a few years ago (see here).

These casters are put together with roll pins (also called spring pins). You need to get a roll pin punch set - since you only need it once, you can gt a cheap set at Ace, WalMart or similar. I managed to get the pins out with other pieces of steel (nail punch, nails, rod, and similar) for the first set, but it was much easier using the roll pin punch for the second set and for reassembly.

I had to drill through the center of the pin all the way through since the pin was in a blind hole. After drilling through, I enlarged the hole to the same size as the original hole on the opposite side. Then the pin may be driven out. I recommend a pin punch but anything correctly sized may work.

Thanks, its really hard to google things when you don't know the name!

I already have the Crafstman roll pin punch set, I use them all the time on steering and wheel bearings...most of my garage time is spent on old motorcycles. I didn't know what a roll pin was before now though. I gave it a few taps last night with the punch, but its rusted in good. I'll soak it tonight, whack it with a little more confidence, and resort to drilling if that doesn't work.

Did you replace with new roll pins, or is a cotter pin sufficient? This isn't a restoration in the collector sense, I just want a clean, functional piece of machinery and the fun of fixing it up.

I sure wish I had the patience, forethought, and battery life to take before and after pics, your gallery and a few others I found on here will be a big help.

How timely, I was just about to ask the same question. Are you able to reuse the pins or do you need to acquire new ones? Also, does anybody see any harm in just bathing the whole setup in a shallow pan full of evapo-rust. I was thinking that the bearings in the casters might be rusty and could use a bath as well.

I'm in the market for 3rd set and was wondering what would be a fair price to pay for a set off of e-bay. Are they in short supply like the speed changers? There's one on e-bay that's up to $65.00 with 4 days to go

frank81 wrote:Thanks, its really hard to google things when you don't know the name!

I already have the Crafstman roll pin punch set, I use them all the time on steering and wheel bearings...most of my garage time is spent on old motorcycles. I didn't know what a roll pin was before now though. I gave it a few taps last night with the punch, but its rusted in good. I'll soak it tonight, whack it with a little more confidence, and resort to drilling if that doesn't work.

Did you replace with new roll pins, or is a cotter pin sufficient? This isn't a restoration in the collector sense, I just want a clean, functional piece of machinery and the fun of fixing it up.

I sure wish I had the patience, forethought, and battery life to take before and after pics, your gallery and a few others I found on here will be a big help.

Roll Pin, Spring pin, Tension pin, names used interchangably today, but the roll pins were different. The pins should be reusable, and cotter pins just will not work well(the joint needs to be tight). Drill the pins only as a LAST resort!!!:eek: The pins are hard and the aluminum soft and twist drill bits tend to wander.

fredsheldon wrote:How timely, I was just about to ask the same question. Are you able to reuse the pins or do you need to acquire new ones? Also, does anybody see any harm in just bathing the whole setup in a shallow pan full of evapo-rust. I was thinking that the bearings in the casters might be rusty and could use a bath as well.

Bearing idea reasonable.

I do not like putting aluminum parts in either evaporust or an electrolysis tub.

I do not know of any reasopn not to other than the chemistry 'might' get confused.

Steel, rust and 'soda' water(electrolyte) only. Oh and sometimes paint when used as a paint remover as well.

JPG40504 wrote:The pins are hard and the aluminum soft (

You're just speaking about the lever correct? Warming up the aluminum with a heat gun will expand the metal and make the presumably steel pin easier to remove. That's how you remove a steel bearing from an aluminum wheel, and put the bearing (pin) in the freezer before reinstalling.

The steel rods are a different story. Sounds like those are just going to be patience and effort.

JPG40504 wrote:Bearing idea reasonable.

I do not like putting aluminum parts in either evaporust or an electrolysis tub.

I do not know of any reasopn not to other than the chemistry 'might' get confused.

Steel, rust and 'soda' water(electrolyte) only. Oh and sometimes paint when used as a paint remover as well.

Putting aluminum in with steel during electrolysis will cause galvanic corrosion. You will create more pits than already existed under the rust.

frank81 wrote:You're just speaking about the lever correct? Warming up the aluminum with a heat gun will expand the metal and make the presumably steel pin easier to remove. That's how you remove a steel bearing from an aluminum wheel, and put the bearing (pin) in the freezer before reinstalling.

The steel rods are a different story. Sounds like those are just going to be patience and effort.

The pins if rusted will be stubborn to get started, but once broken loose, they will come out(still tight though). The freezer trick is not necessary once the pins are cleaned up. I doubt the heat trick will help, as the pins are usually frozen to the rod holes, not the aluminum foot pedal. IIRC, the pins are 1/8", but once the end reaches the steel rod, a smaller punch may be needed to clear the hole in the rod.

Avoid mushrooming the pin end.