Shopsmith Forums

I keep going back and forth but I need advice on sizing the drawer bottoms for my tool chest. My drawers are approximately 29" wide by 18" deep. Most of the drawers are 5-1/4" deep with a couple of them being 3-1/4" deep. (Yes I used a Porter Cable dovetail jig) Sides of the drawers are made out of approximately 3/4" pine. In fact the whole thing is made out of pine. Not the best wood to be using but it is free so who am I to argue. But my question is what thickness should I use. 1/4" or 3/8". I would be buying some type of plywood to use for the drawer bottoms. I have the drawers parts made up but I haven't routed in the grooves for the drawer bottoms yet. If I use 3/8" should I rabbet it so it goes into a 1/4 groove on the sides of the drawers or use a 3/8" groove? I know that there is not necessarily only one correct answer but since I have never made a wood tool chest before I would like some opinions. The drawers themselves will be put together with half blind dovetails so they will be strong. I don't know exactly what I will be putting into the drawers. They will be woodworking/Shopsmith related so the heavy tools like hammers, wrenches and other items will stay in my metal tool chests. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Reference "American Woodworker" Feb/Mar issue # 164: There is a good plan for a large tool, chest. Drawers are 29"X17.5". They call for 1/2" maple plywood drawer bottoms.

Seemed like a little over kill to me, but it is what it is!

For that size drawer and for that potential load, I'd go with at least 3/8" and maybe 1/2." 29"x17-1/2" is a pretty good span to expect 1/4" plywood not to sag or give way (especially if something is dropped into the drawer - not that you would ever do that on purpose).

anmius wrote:For that size drawer and for that potential load, I'd go with at least 3/8" and maybe 1/2." 29"x17-1/2" is a pretty good span to expect 1/4" plywood not to sag or give way (especially if something is dropped into the drawer - not that you would ever do that on purpose).

Whatever you decide, make sure they float. Have you met space balls?

Nothing wrong with pine for tool boxes. Years and Years ago pretty much all work benches and tool boxes were made form more plentiful and less expensive softwoods (pine, fir, hemlock, spruce, etc.) The hardwoods were reserved for tool handles and merchandise that was sold for profit. Woodworking/joinery was a business before it was a hobby and the Master Joiner/small business owner had to keep his costs down (or go out of business).

You're using the best wood "Free Wood"

Don't forget to share pics of the project.

I'd go with 3/8 ply over that distance BTW.

First, as has been stated, if you drop something, you want the bottom to remain strong.
Second, as previously stated, that is a large span for a thin material. And, I would not make the bottom thinner for fitting into the dados or rabbets. Your bottom will only be as strong as its weakest point.
Thirdly, depending on what tools will be stored or potentially stored by the you or the next user would be better served with thicker and stronger material. Maybe, overkill, but it sure beats trying to go back and bracing when it begins to sag. Just MHO.

Do you already have the plywood?

If not I'd go with 1/2 inch thick.

I would have the dado allow at least an extra 1/2 inch from the bottom so that if the drawer bottom does sag from whatever you put in there, you can install braces and cleats to span the width and bolster the corners. Actually I'd probably attach diagonal cleats in the corners and run two supports under the bottom, front to back. Belts, suspenders and duct tape! oh my!

Since the material is nearly 3/4 thick I'd set the depth of the dado half that thickness to hold the drawer bottom.

But then I'm too lazy to plan on fixing something if I can build it to withstand abuse.

Just my 2 cents

Ben

Correction to post #3 - - The drawers in this plan are 30" x 171/2.

The 1/2" plywood bottoms are not fit into grooves. They are screwed (1" wood screws) and glued to the bottom of the drawer sides and fronts. All drawer sides are also 1/2" - joined at the corners with dovetails.

The first post (#3) was from memory:rolleyes: Always questionable;)

I'm gonna build one of these things after finishing two projects ahead of it. Time? Maybe end of Summer.

I agree with all the above. Especially -- with the generous depth of your drawers, you've got room to spare for a thick bottom panel. Only if the drawers were very low-profile, would a thinner bottom be in consideration.... to leave more space, and allowable since the drawers wouldn't be holding as much mass/contents.