Shopsmith Forums

’lo all,

I’m new to the forum and have found the reading, so far, very interesting and informative.

This, however, is my sad entry to the forum:

I just picked up an old Mark V "greenie" at pretty fair price, but can’t seem to keep a 3/4" bit locked into the drill chuck.

That is —
I purchased an Irwin 3/4" bit from my local hardware store, I loosen the chuck and open the jaws, I put the bit in, I tighten the chuck, I tighten the jaws, I drill and, though it drills the hole the bit tends to free itself from the chuck.

There, I said it (whew).

I’m perplexed. I’m not new to using a drill, though it‘s been a long long while since I’ve used anything beyond a hand power drill.

WHY IS THIS HAPPENING???

Does this baby require that I only use Shopsmith bits?

I thank you for any help you can offer.

Cheers.
- idcook

PS — Thinking about handing the stockhead over to a guy who can restore it to peak condition.

No, there are no special drill bits, Shopsmith or otherwise, that you need to use. Are you using the chuck key at all three locations on the chuck? This ensures all three jaws are tight.

algale wrote:No, there are no special drill bits, Shopsmith or otherwise, that you need to use. Are you using the chuck key at all three locations on the chuck? This ensures all three jaws are tight.

Hello algale,

Yes, I’m using the key on all three locations. I’ll continue testing how well I’m prepping the chuck/bit and drill holes until this stops.

One suspicion I have is that there might be some wobble involved. i.e. - It appears the chuck may not be properly aligned. Just off enough to maybe cause the bit to stick a little inside the hole as it turns. Ultimately causing it to pull free of the chuck.

Not sure what, but I’ll continue workin’ on it till it stops doing this.

Thanks for your input.

First, let me bid you a welcome to this forum. I am sorry that you cold not have entered on a more positive note.

I don't think that it really makes a difference but do you know what brand of chuck you are using?

Inspect the chuck to make sure it is clean (free of any debris that could prevent the 3 jaws from closing)?

As you adjust the chuck to close the jaws, does it seem to move freely? Without a bit, do the jaws go all the way closed?

When you lock a bit in the chuck, do you use the chuck key in all three positions around the chuck? It is said that this secures the bit in the chuck better and with less chance for improper alignment. I'm not sure I buy that but I do it anyhow (because that is what I was taught).

BTW I have had this same thing happen on my keyless chucks but never on the keyed chucks.

’lo Dusty,

The bit brand is IRWIN. Pretty narrow shaft — I guess about a 1/4" or so.
There doesn’t seem to be any real issue with the chuck or jaws.

UPDATE:
Decided to go downstairs and check my chuck locking competency. After a couple of tries I was finally able to drill three holes without the thing becoming undone. (just drilled one more to make sure I wasn’t lying to myself) …

Being so long out of practice I think I might’ve been doing a few things wrong:

1- I would shove the bit as far in as possible; so that the cylinder of the bit was partially inside the jaws. I adjusted it to only have the hexagonal section of the shaft inside the jaws;

2 - Using the key, I tightened, tightend and tightened again till it seemed I just couldn’t tighten it any more no matter what;

3 - I had been likely forcing the bit into the wood as opposed to letting the bit do the work.

These seem to have solved the problem.

Thanks to both of you for your insistence that I check how I’m handling the chuck/bit process. Made me think and observe more carefully, and it appears the issue is finally resolved.

You have restored my faith that I might actually build something one of these days.

Thanks again! :-)

Of the three possible causes you listed, I would definately suspect #1 as being the culprit.

Roger

I agree that #1 is the problem. When using stepped drill bits they can not be bottomed out when you put them in the chuck. They will only bite on the fillet at the transition of the different radii. Same with router bits. They should be put in all the way until they bottom out and then withdrawn about 1/4 inch so the collet grabs the straight part of the shank. Don't grab a router bit on any of the teflon coating or the small radius at the transition of the shank and the actual body of the cutter.
BIll V

Welcome to the forum and yes I agree #1 is probably the problem.
It is very common problem with routers. When a bit is bottomed out in a chuck or collet there is no way for inward movement of the collet or chuck jaws that occur naturally when they are tightened.

The jaws can't move in so they appear tight but in fact aren't.

Thanks to all for the welcome.

Right now I’m looking over one a them thar Sjobergs Workbenches.

Someone is offering it for a mere $30.
(Appears to be about what it’s worth in my mind)

Looks sorta rickety, but the top might be useful added to a better built base.
But I can’t find any pictures of what it looks like underneath.

Anybody know how the top of this thing is built… Hollow, thin…?
Are the vices any good?

Should I just continue with plans to build my own?