beeg wrote: . . .
BUT I'd almost bet JPG's life on it that there's a burr causing it to be stuck on the shaft.
HEY!!! That is not yours squander on a bet!:D
At this point I think rust is the most likely culprit. The soaking has also created a good air seal between the chuck and the shaft end.
I think constant pressure will help initiate removal motion.(prying, not banging)
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I agree with Dusty and JPG that rust is no longer the problem. If the chuck turns freely on the spindle the mostly likely culprit preventing the chuck from coming off is a burr on the spindle. No amount of penetrating oil will fix that (nor Evaporust).
Dusty's idea about using a gear puller sounds rational to me. Open that chuck as wide as you can and you should be able to both see the end of the spindle and put a short piece of 1/2" steel in the chuck. It may be that a short piece of 7/16" steel would assure a loose fit. It's possible that the chuck won't fully open for a variety of reasons and you want the piece of steel to be loose in the jaws. You don't need to points of friction! The gear puller would place three points of pressure on the back of the chuck (if you can get it in there). The center of the gear puller would be on the steel in the chuck. As you tighten the gear puller, it will simultaneously push on the spindle and pull on the chuck. You can go slow and only use enough force to get the chuck off.
It is possible that you won't be able to get the gear puller behind the chuck. That would make this a bit more challenging. You might be able to get a 'bite' on the chuck sleeve with the three arms of the gear puller. My guess is you'd need to do some rigging to make this happen. Depending on how tight the bind between the chuck and the spindle is, you might pull the chuck sleeve off. Frankly, this isn't all bad. The chuck could be thoroughly cleaned and reassembled, if that happened. But, if it happened, you'd still need to get the body of the chuck off.
If it were my machine, I'd do everything I could to get the gear puller to pull from the back of the chuck. If I need to use some hard wood shims to wedge a little space, I'd do that. If there was a way to split a very large washer and insert it behind the chuck, I'd use it to attache the gear puller to and work from there.
As has been mentioned, this is a very close fitting piece. You can feel suction when you pull the chuck off. A small burr, possibly raised when the chuck slipped while the machine was on, could be all that's causing this havoc.
Don
Mark V (bought new, now sold), Model 520 (1989 510 upgraded)
Bandsaw, Jointer, and Planer
1951 Magna Engineering 10ER (restored for lathe use and sold)
terrydowning wrote:Another prying option would be a tie rod separator
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Just make sure the one you use will clear the spindle. Most will.
Autozone should have these for "free" rental. You pay a deposit and get it back in full when you return it. They will also probably have a bearing puller if you prefer that.
dusty wrote:
Using the chuck key, can you open the chuck so that you can see the end of the shaft?
My chuck has a blind hole that fits on the arbor. So a gear puller wood knot work.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop. .
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Bob
beeg wrote:What wood you people think about using evaporust or CLR in place of a penetrating oil?
I used evaporust that way a couple of times when I was cleaning up my 10ERs with good result. In places where parts have been stuck because of old congealed oil/grease I have had good result using silicon lube spray, not sure if it is the silicon or the propellant that cuts though the old crud and frees the part.
Ron Dyck
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10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
That PB Blaster looks like some pretty useful stuff.
However, being somewhat disinclined to trot into the chill of the day, I’ll hang with the pry, tie rod separator, gutted wood wedge, gentle tapping route for the time being. I mean, having broken the belt, it ain’t like I’ll be using the machine for anything else today. Might as well spend a little time getting intimate with the chuck and spindle.
I’ll wobble back down in a few minutes to take a look to see if what I thought was the bottom of the chuck is actually the end of the spindle.
[quote="idcook"]That PB Blaster looks like some pretty useful stuff.
However, being somewhat disinclined to trot into the chill of the day, I’]
I'm a tightwad and tend to only buy stuff that needs fixed. Old stuff. Rusty stuff. I do a lot of removing stuck parts.
If you're gonna pry, I have found the most effective method is to run a sturdy screwdriver (or prying tool of choice) along one side of the shaft, and instead of putting vertical pressure on it, rotate it. Normal prying creates pressure points on the edges of the piece and leaves dents and can bend the entire piece. It also lends itself to the piece or tool (or you) breaking. You only need to get it started, rotation spreads the load, reduces binding, and you have more control. You can also use your free hand to twist the chuck as you pry.
Also, any play you have you should exercise. If the chuck can move back up a little, work it up and down for a bit (make sure no one watches or they may have comments) and see if you start seeing a tanline or more daylight, and listen for any impact signifiying something structural in the way.
frank81 wrote:
Heat, PB Plaster, and grease are your friends.
And in this case for sure a hammer is most certainly NOT your friend. Resist the urge to use impact at this point, it will only cause for problems. Gentle persuasion in the form of an even prying effort is called for.
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Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Ironically, I just came up from using rotation with a little forward urging. This definitely moved it further along the spindle. So, I continued rotating one way and then the other.
As well, when I decided to resort to a little tapping with the shims and mallet, the result was that the thing became a bit more intractable. Fortunately, I didn’t do much of that. Returning to the rotation, since it provided, as you put it, the first hint of daylight since I started working on it.
To say the least, it’s rather slow going but it has moved.
I’ve added some more oil and letting it marinate for a spell while I rest.
(i.e. laze off to keep myself from getting frustrated and giving up)
Seeing this decent bit of improvement, I’m going to check my local suppliers to see if they have any of the lubricants suggested earlier. Maybe that weird fork-looking thingy too.
Meanwhile, a comparison. Not perfect but close enough to see, perhaps arguably, an appreciable difference.
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