Shopsmith Forums

idcook wrote:’lo Don, Josh, rpd …

Thanks for all that useful information.

There’s an Autozone not too far from me.

PB Blaster is amazing and they sell it at autozone

Probably hard to make yourself do this but at this point I would tap it back on while attempting to keep it rotating on the shaft. My theory is that doing this will dislodge whatever has it stuck.

You'll have it off later today or tomorrow. I have faith.

Just don't revert to force or impact greater than tapping. That shaft being straight is absolutely essential.

'It' being an older model, the chuck has a blind hole for the spindle mount.

The chuck can be drilled to provide an access hole to the arbor shaft end.

That would allow use of a puller(and eliminate"vapor lock":D).

The hole is drilled 'through' the jaws(fully opened to clear the bit).

This would allow getting penetrating oil to the 'other' side of any rust.

The hole need not be larger than 1/4" since a short 'pin' can be used with a puller.


I suggest this as a 'last' resort when(if) all else has proved unsuccessful.

A bearing puller that consists of a 'clamp', a straight rod, and a sliding weight might work here. It exerts pull only pressure(no 'prying' against collar).

As has been mentioned Auto Zone has a very agreeable loaner program.

JPG40504 wrote:A bearing puller that consists of a 'clamp', a straight rod, and a sliding weight might work here. It exerts pull only pressure(no 'prying' against collar).

As has been mentioned Auto Zone has a very agreeable loaner program.

OK, here's a brain-dead idea.

Get a long piece of 3/8ths rod, with a big nut on one end, and a weight from a "weight" exercise set. Slide the weight on the rod, clamp it in the chuck jaws, and use the weight like a slide-hammer, to pull the chuck off. You may need some fender washers, to keep the weight from sliding off.

Since we're dealing with a drill chuck, it has a clamp built in.

steve

skou wrote:OK, here's a brain-dead idea.

Get a long piece of 3/8ths rod, with a big nut on one end, and a weight from a "weight" exercise set. Slide the weight on the rod, clamp it in the chuck jaws, and use the weight like a slide-hammer, to pull the chuck off. You may need some fender washers, to keep the weight from sliding off.

Since we're dealing with a drill chuck, it has a clamp built in.

steve

I predict the 'built in clamp' would prove 'inadequate'.

Good morning —

Okay,

Following last night’s various rotations, tappings and wiggles, as well as a promise of tickets for two to Aunt’s Julia’s Chicken Shack, the chuck moved no further.

So, this morning, I toddled down the hill to the AutoZone and grabbed a can of PB Blaster.

Smells sorta like bug spray with a surprisingly thinned oiliness. I was concerned about how I would get the contents directed at the offending join, but it didn’t deliver itself in a mist but a thin jet-stream. Making it easy to direct to the target.

For some reason that bug spray smell evokes confidence.

A Nick Engler book arrived yesterday. So I’ll do a lil learnin’ while it’s burnin’ and check back in an hour or so to see what gives.

Did you tap it back on to see if once you did that you could return to where it was before tapping it on?

If you did that successfully, I suggest you bug spray it, let it set awhile and then repeat that procedure until it comes off. (the tapping on and off procedure that is)

IT WILL COME OFF!

dusty wrote:Did you tap it back on to see if once you did that you could return to where it was before tapping it on?

If you did that successfully, I suggest you bug spray it, let it set awhile and then repeat that procedure until it comes off. (the tapping on and off procedure that is)

IT WILL COME OFF!

Good morning Dusty,

I have to admit that I did attempt to tap it back to the original position, but was timid in my effort. Afraid that I might cause more damage.

I’ll go down to check it in a minute and I’ll tap another few raps at it to see if I can make move it back and then down again.

I definitely understand the validity of this approach. If it can be moved back up that might dislodge whatever is causing the problem.

Of course I’ll extend updates as I go along.

I’m sure it will be removed, though I may have to resort to the ultimate penetration process — Let’s call it Smith & Wesson oil.

idcook wrote:Good morning Dusty,

I have to admit that I did attempt to tap it back to the original position, but was timid in my effort. Afraid that I might cause more damage.

I’ll go down to check it in a minute and I’ll tap another few raps at it to see if I can make move it back and then down again.

I definitely understand the validity of this approach. If it can be moved back up that might dislodge whatever is causing the problem.

Of course I’ll extend updates as I go along.

I’m sure it will be removed, though I may have to resort to the ultimate penetration process — Let’s call it Smith & Wesson oil.

Patience and perseverance rein supreme. No Hammers.