Shopsmith Forums

Not knowing how familiar you are with the shaft and the chuck, I thought maybe these photos would help you to envision what you are up against.

[ATTACH]20606[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]20607[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]20608[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]20609[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]20610[/ATTACH]

Well, thanks for the photos Dusty. You’ve changed my whole outlook.

1- The spindle shaft isn’t quite as long as I’d feared;

2- The chuck may be hollow all the way through.
Looked solid when I checked, but I’ll check again for any sign that it’s open on the other end. If so, I’ll definitely lean toward the "puller" route.
(At this point I’m less concerned about the chuck so long as I can remove it without damaging the spindle.)

Gonna run to look again now.

I find that the drill chuck may have spun (loose set screw) on the quill shaft. I brought a 2 PC JACOBS REMOVAL WEDGE SET (do a Goggle search) years ago to remove whatever may be stuck on the quill shaft. These are very thin "U" shaped wedges that fit over the shaft. I use 2 hammers and tap on each wedge at the same time. Takes a bit to adjust for this action.

Sanding disks, saw arbors and hubs get stuck too. The quill shaft can be bent (more than .002" runout) just by hammering on one side of whatever is stuck. No "Y" type fork should be used.

billmayo wrote:I find that the drill chuck may have spun (loose set screw) on the quill shaft. I brought a 2 PC JACOBS REMOVAL WEDGE SET (do a Goggle search) years ago to remove whatever may be stuck on the quill shaft. These are very thin "U" shaped wedges that fit over the shaft. I use 2 hammers and tap on each wedge at the same time. Takes a bit to adjust for this action.

Sanding disks, saw arbors and hubs get stuck too. The quill shaft can be bent (more than .002" runout) just by hammering on one side of whatever is stuck. No "Y" type fork should be used.

I think Bill knows everything

If you can't get easy access to those, maybe try renting this? I don't know how much space you have between the chuck and the collar.

This is a Greenie!(or a later Goldie[Gilmer]

It has a jacobs chuck with NO through hole.

A wheel puller will not work as there is no access to the shaft to pull against.

As mentioned earlier, a hole could be drilled through the chuck to access the shaft, and then a puller might work.

I would first try the sliding weight bearing puller.

However I think the flush/twist-pull-push repeat will eventually get it done if push/pull is strong enough. The flush needs to be done with the hole over the flat.

2:25 AM… The chuck is free!

Rotation, a little winkle with a screw driver, I saw movement. More PB, vertical position, rotation… DONE!

Thanks to all for your aid.

Time … for … bed … zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

Whew!!!!!!!!!!:):):):):):):):):):)

idcook wrote:2:25 AM… The chuck is free!

Rotation, a little winkle with a screw driver, I saw movement. More PB, vertical position, rotation… DONE!

Thanks to all for your aid.

Time … for … bed … zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

Congratulations, job well done.

But what was it. A nasty burr or just crud.

G’mornin’ folks.

Dusty, after it came off I gave it a cursory glance, noted a small pool of oil gathered in the chucks hole, set it aside, announced and fell asleep.

I’d spent part of yesterday studying various pullers and even designed one myself. But time, PB oil and good old elbow grease was the ultimate answer.

I’ll go down in a bit if give it a real close goin’ over and let you if I find anything to explain the problem.

Might just be that it hadn’t been removed for years.

Again, thanks to you all for your help through this.

I use my machine so much that nothing remains on the shaft long enough to freeze up BUT if a machine is destined for storage or long term non-use, I strongly recommend that nothing be left mounted on the shaft.