Shopsmith Forums

I recently purchased a miter express when on sale at SS. Tonight, I spent several hours trying to decide just where to cut the drop panel. It is pretty straight forward if you are only usine the ME for miter cuts, but the problem becomes more difficult if one contemplates making bevel cuts.

My question, does anyone here use their ME for making bevel cuts, and if so, how do you maintain any kind of ZC?

tomp wrote:I recently purchased a miter express when on sale at SS. Tonight, I spent several hours trying to decide just where to cut the drop panel. It is pretty straight forward if you are only usine the ME for miter cuts, but the problem becomes more difficult if one contemplates making bevel cuts.

My question, does anyone here use their ME for making bevel cuts, and if so, how do you maintain any kind of ZC?

I haven't used it for bevels yet, but if I remember creckly the way to deal with ZC for that, and maybe for any ZC, is with multiple panels, either with blanks from Incra or from a piece of finished ply. Easy enuf to cut extras, and install also easy.

(btw, is there anything easy about bevel cuts? Just thinkin...)

Thanks for the reply. I was beginning to think that I was a pariah, but now believe that no one uses their miter express for bevel cuts.

Yes, I see how I would need to make new panels if/when I get into that.

I have it going now; what a pleasure to make accurate miters.

Tom

Sorry I didn't get to this post before now. I've had mine out this afternoon and took a couple of pictures so people can see how this works.

First this is just a simulation, no actual wood was harmed getting these shots.

For normal cutting the setup should look something like this.

[ATTACH]21485[/ATTACH]

As the table tilts the blade moves away from the sled

[ATTACH]21486[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]21487[/ATTACH]

Of course the side table then looks like it should be getting cut.

[ATTACH]21488[/ATTACH]

What I do is flip that side table around and move the runner to another of the hole sets, this way it stays away from the blade. That picture didn't turn out but I can shoot another if it is not clear what I mean.

I normally don't make cuts with this sled if the table is tilted but I have and it does work. You start loosing support under the work piece and the wood can have a tendency to start chipping out... ie the lack of a zci function.

Ed

Is there a reason why you cannot make a zci for use in the tilted configuration?

Do these types of choices/issues also apply if you have a standard issue miter express and try to cut bevels on a tilt-arbor saw?

dusty wrote:Is there a reason why you cannot make a zci for use in the tilted configuration?

Not sure where to begin and it would require some extra out of the box thinking. For me it simply isn't worth the effort.

Ed

algale wrote:Do these types of choices/issues also apply if you have a standard issue miter express and try to cut bevels on a tilt-arbor saw?

The same issues apply no mater what type of arrangements you have on your table saw. For "standard" table saws the mount is to the left as the tilt is the other way.

Ed

dusty wrote:Is there a reason why you cannot make a zci for use in the tilted configuration?

You would need to buy another drop panel and rail for each angle. The drop panel is $35 and the rail is $16 plus shipping. In "theory" you could buy one or two sets and cut them at generic angles, maybe 22 1/2 and 45. Then those might get widened a bit as you use them for various cuts, but it would offer a semblance of zero cut. The effort to attach the miter side piece might get frustrating unless you were planning a batch job of lots of the same angles cut.

Mine should be here in a short while (ordered on the 7th), but I plan to make a jig like Nick had in the video to help with cut pieces falling toward the blade, but will have to figure other way to help with chip out when cutting at a tilt.

Just my thoughts,

Ben

Ed,

Thanks for the great explanation, and taking the time to include the photos. It is all clear to me now.

Tom