Shopsmith Forums

PO dropped headstock on this. Any fix?

Any fix? Yes, but replacement would be the best solution.

You could try J-B Weld, but the straightening and smoothing would be quite chore-some. Really not worth the effort, in my opinion.

Here's the cost of replacement - $27.80 Here's Shopsmith's web order page for inserts. http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/swd_tableinserts.htm It looks like you want item B. Looks like the broken insert was badly in the need of wax prior to breakage.

EDIT - - Oh for Pete's sake:o . Forgot to include the link to the insert. Sorry! But now it's there.

db5 wrote:PO dropped headstock on this. Any fix?

Probably you could use epoxy like JB Weld. If it were me, however, I would not mess with it because if the insert fails you could have projectiles flying back at you. You can make your own zero clearance insert without too much work. Use the search feature and you will see several methods for making these.

Charlese beat me to it. I agree: buy a new one or make your own ZCI

algale wrote:Probably you could use epoxy like JB Weld. If it were me, however, I would not mess with it because if the insert fails you could have projectiles flying back at you. You can make your own zero clearance insert without too much work. Use the search feature and you will see several methods for making these.

Charlese beat me to it. I agree: buy a new one or make your own ZCI

I feared as much. I thought heat, hammer or something would work. My wife said that if we we packed it and took it on a cruise to Bermuda that it would fix it. So, before I make a final decision, what do your wives say about the Bermuda Cruise Fix?

db5 wrote:I feared as much. I thought heat, hammer or something would work. My wife said that if we we packed it and took it on a cruise to Bermuda that it would fix it. So, before I make a final decision, what do your wives say about the Bermuda Cruise Fix?

My wife would go for a Bermuda Cruise Fix in half a heartbeat. Great concept. Bet it cost more than $28, though!

My wife told me that a Viking River Cruise would be an absolute definite fix.
Bill V

I would never use JB Weld for a mechanical or load bearing part. It's great for some applications but that's getting borderline and it's not low enough viscosity to get down into cracks like a proper reapir needs.

If its steel get it welded. If it's cast, get it brazed. Most muffler shops could do the weld for you on the cheap, brazing would require a machine shop and a little more money but not awful.

But ff the part is only $27, ignore all that and buy the part.

frank81 wrote:I would never use JB Weld for a mechanical or load bearing part. It's great for some applications but that's getting borderline and it's not low enough viscosity to get down into cracks like a proper reapir needs.

If its steel get it welded. If it's cast, get it brazed. Most muffler shops could do the weld for you on the cheap, brazing would require a machine shop and a little more money but not awful.

But ff the part is only $27, ignore all that and buy the part.

Besides that, it is aluminum. Reduces the chances of 'successful' welding.

JPG40504 wrote:Besides that, it is aluminum. Reduces the chances of 'successful' welding.

Depends on the welder. There are a couple hundred guys and 2 million pounds of aluminum on the other side of my office wall that would beg to differ!

Welding aluminum requires a TIG welder (or certain MIG welders can do it as well with the correct attachment)...but welding aluminum is much more tricky than steel and requires some expertise and experience...even with that, it's hard to see that the end result will be as good as a new one (or quality used one), much less that it can be done <= the price of a new/used one.