Major edit on this post.
It seem interesting to me that some people were reporting that they did not have a fit problem and many others had the same issue that I did. Today Dec 27, 2016 I went back to revisit the situation.
It turns out that there are two ways to mount some parts and depending on which way you went you either have the interference or not. But it also shows me that either way has an issue.
Since people often looking for information start a thread and begin reading at the beginning I've chosen to edit this post with the new information I have now found.
Below is part of the original post:
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Now I left a lot out because it seem pretty straight forward from the book and no use repeating a lot of what the manual says.
The backer board can be adjust to many positions and flipped over for even more "backing". It is 1/4" MDF and seems to be a piece of cake to make more of.
Here are a couple of cuts I made. It looks like it might take a few tries to get the feel for how it all works together.
As for me, I'll be taking a step back from additional postings for now. I have a project in mind but it will be a while before that starts. Until then I hope to make a few practice cuts and get the feel for the fit. No use having you watch that time of adjustment but those who wish to adventure forth think about helping us all out with some of your details.
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Now here is the new information as of 12/27/16. First in case there are any questions as to the mounting of the hardware up to this point here is a picture with the "I" mounted on my shopsmith. Note the red knob is to the left and the left miter slot is used.
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Now here is the new information that I found today. First I have recreated the situation where the mounting hardware interferes with the mounting bolt. The original bolt head ran in to the head of the screw holding the miter bar on. The fix was a "toilet" bolt and the heads of the two parts slid past each other rather then butt heads. It has been too long for me to remember if I tried many solutions but this was the fix I was informed of so I did it. The other situation was that the tunnel in the blade guard needed to be slightly trimmed. This was not a big deal and no metal parts were harmed. You will notice that I have labeled this blade guard "A".
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Now had I decided to select the other blade guard which I have assume some people did things look quite different. I labeled this "B" In this case the tunnel is located in quite a different place and the mounting holes are no were near being in the same location. You can see that here:
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How ever on my system it would appear this is not a perfect choice either. The nut ends up being about have way in/out of the channel below. I don't find that to be a good situation either but I think either way will work and I have no idea which is the correct way. Anyway here is a picture of what I'm seeing.
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Perhaps someday I'll get the manual back out and have a look at this part of the assembly to see if they make it clear as to how it should go.
Ed
