Shopsmith Forums

Sorry to repost this the top blade and tire are being thrown off

Can you provide a bit more info? How are you putting the tire back on, glue? If not then it will come off again. Are the bearings in the upper wheel OK? What speed are you running? Anything above "slow" is too fast if the tire is not glued on. Pictures are worth a 1000 words so if you can provide pics it may help a lot.
Bill V

I have nothing to offer in the way of a solution. I have and use two bandsaws both of which have the original tires. One is getting close to where new tires may be in order but every time I see one of these posts, I decide that they can wait.

I hear/read very few really good reports about changing tires on te Shopsmith bandsaws.

Post a pix of the upper wheel with a straight edge extending from the top rim to below the top of the lower wheel that reveals the top of both wheels.

Black rubber or that orangeish stuff?

Rubber tires need to be glued on.

Poly whatever tires can become stretched and will perpetually come off.

I am like Dusty, if it ain't broke do not fix, and that includes(in my case) considerable dry rot!

I replaced mine when I first got it home. I also replaced the bearings that the blade runs against at the same time. I bought the black ones and glued them on. Everything went well for a short time and then it scared the crap out of me. The top tire came off and wedged inside of the guard. I thought I was going to have a heart attack from the noise. I call ShopSmith to see what I did wrong and they said I had done everything right so I ordered the other style bands I think they were the orange ones and that was a few years ago and all is well. If I remember right they were a bear to put on.

I installed the orange tires on mine and didn't have a bit of trouble. Following the instructions, it was fairly simple and easy.

Amazing....just like the night before Christmas.....follow directions everything works out...two part epoxy on slow speed simpliy amazing

dusty wrote:I have nothing to offer in the way of a solution. I have and use two bandsaws both of which have the original tires. One is getting close to where new tires may be in order but every time I see one of these posts, I decide that they can wait.

I hear/read very few really good reports about changing tires on te Shopsmith bandsaws.

Yes, getting the Shopsmith tires to stay on can be a struggle. I found the contact cement left ridges under the tires and caused the blade to vibrate. I switch to 3M 77 spray on ahesive years ago and not found any tires coming off after that. I roll a dowel under the tire and spray behind the dowel. I use the 3M 77 on the orange tires too. Getting the blade too hot will cause the blade to dig into the orange tires causing them to be replaced.

First thing was to get the upper wheel tilted correctly. Do not try to bend the upper arm by pulling on the upper bandsaw wheel. I remove the wheel and use a pipe on the axle each time. I have been able to somewhat straighten a few upper wheels that was bent by the owners but had to discard a few as being too crooked which reflects on the blade tracking.

I prefer the black tires as replacements but they have become about as expensive as the orange tires now. I find belt conditioner sprayed on the black bandsaw tires often seems to extend their life and prevent cracking. I have really sanded the outter surface of the black tires to help extend their life. You have to very careful if you do this and I am sure it is not recommended by Shopsmith.

JPG40504 wrote:...
... and that includes(in my case) considerable dry rot!

Ouch! Living in the tropics I know that can be a real nuisance. But I hear there all sorts of remedies available, from skin creams, lotions and salves, that at least stop the itching...

;-)

I'm just finishing up a complete re-do of a Shopsmith thickness planer and, after a loose assembly of the cutter head, I'm ready to set the knife height but I did not get a setting gauge with the planer. and I've watched sawdust Session #20 showing the alternate method.

I have a dial gauge but would have to make up a jig to do it that way and before I take the time to do it, I thought I'd ask if anyone knows of a scale PDF of the setting gauge that might be cut from some thin plywood or plastic.

Maybe that wouldn't be precise enough. Just wondering.
Also, He mentioned that the knife height above the cutterhead is .0132. The video isn't real clear, but I'm guessing that is the distance measured from the tip of the sharp side of the knife directly down along the knife to the cutterhead body. If that's so, has anyone just made a little block that (.0132) thickness & held it to the knife & cutterhead & set the knife accordingly?