Shopsmith Forums

I could use some advice (which I probably should have asked for before beginning the build).

I needed to make a rolling cabinet/stand to get my DW735 off of my bench. I knew the DW735 was heavy, but with a 21 x 21 foot print for the cabinet, I figured 1/2 inch ply (12 mm) would be strong enough. I am regretting that decision. I put the planer on the stand and while it is solid there is a small amount of sag on the front edge of the top which I suspect will worsen over time.

[ATTACH]21804[/ATTACH]

Question, is, what is the best way to reinforce the cabinet? Should I retrofit in a frame to solidify the edge of the top or would it be sufficient to glue/screw another piece of 1/2 inch (12 mm) to the existing top, doubling its thickness? I had planned on installing a single drawer under the top and under the drawer an open space with a door, so I am not inclined to put a center support in.

Thanks in advance,

Al

algale wrote:I could use some advice (which I probably should have asked for before beginning the build).

I needed to make a rolling cabinet/stand to get my DW735 off of my bench. I knew the DW735 was heavy, but with a 21 x 21 foot print for the cabinet, I figured 1/2 inch ply (12 mm) would be strong enough. I am regretting that decision. I put the planer on the stand and while it is solid there is a small amount of sag on the front edge of the top which I suspect will worsen over time.

[ATTACH]21804[/ATTACH]

Question, is, what is the best way to reinforce the cabinet? Should I retrofit in a frame to solidify the edge of the top or would it be sufficient to glue/screw another piece of 1/2 inch (12 mm) to the existing top, doubling its thickness? I had planned on installing a single drawer under the top and under the drawer an open space with a door, so I am not inclined to put a center support in.

Thanks in advance,

Al

The weak point is the load in the center of the top, so unless you run a center support a frame would not directly solve that. Doubling or tripling up the top piece of plywood would be your best bet.

I recently bought the same planer and am faced with the same need - it's too bulky and heavy to use without a mobile stand. What about making an internal frame out of 2"x2"s?

A set of 2x?(what ever size is 'handy') cut to 21" placed front to back(ends over the sides) will transfer the 'load' to the sides. I assume they are not now bowing themselves, but might in the future. A center shelf pulling them in will help that.

Hi,

I don't have one of those planers so I'm not sure what kind of weight is involved but I do guess you have a fair amount of $$ tied up.

From the picture it looks like you have some pocket screws (3/side) into 1/2" material, perhaps some glue was added but to be honest I'd be worried that if you are rolling along and hit something on the floor the whole box is going to collapse putting the big $$ item in peril.

Also remember that the wood being planned will add weight plus there will be vibrations, farther stresses on stand.

I'd say keep the stand as is with a little reinforcement for some thing lighter (tool) or stoage, then either buy a metal stand (doesn't need to be dewalt) or make another version out of 3/4" plywood. If you want to use pocket screws again that is fine but you need a lot more of them. You will also want a face frame on/in the front opening.

My planner is mounted on a metal stand and is very stable, cost was about $80 (with locking casters) some years back. I don't recall where I got it but if you look up tool stands you will find a lot to pick from.

This would be your starting point

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW7350-Pla ... uctDetails

Anyway that is my opinion.....

Ed

reible wrote:Hi,

I don't have one of those planers so I'm not sure what kind of weight is involved but I do guess you have a fair amount of $$ tied up.

From the picture it looks like you have some pocket screws (3/side) into 1/2" material, perhaps some glue was added but to be honest I'd be worried that if you are rolling along and hit something on the floor the whole box is going to collapse putting the big $$ item in peril.

Also remember that the wood being planned will add weight plus there will be vibrations, farther stresses on stand.

I'd say keep the stand as is with a little reinforcement for some thing lighter (tool) or stoage, then either buy a metal stand (doesn't need to be dewalt) or make another version out of 3/4" plywood. If you want to use pocket screws again that is fine but you need a lot more of them. You will also want a face frame on/in the front opening.

My planner is mounted on a metal stand and is very stable, cost was about $80 (with locking casters) some years back. I don't recall where I got it but if you look up tool stands you will find a lot to pick from.

This would be your starting point

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW7350-Planer-Integrated-Mobile/dp/B0000CCXU9/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_2#productDetails

Anyway that is my opinion.....

Ed

Gotta admit that is very good advice!:)

JPG40504 wrote:A set of 2x?(what ever size is 'handy') cut to 21" placed front to back(ends over the sides) will transfer the 'load' to the sides. I assume they are not now bowing themselves, but might in the future. A center shelf pulling them in will help that.

Let's make sure we are both viewing the cabinet the same way. Even though the "front" (infeed) of the planer is facing the left in the photo, I consider the "front" of the cabinet to be the open part of the cabinet where the drawer and lower cabinet door will eventually be located.

I assume you are suggesting running the 2 x ?s from left to right in the photo? If so, I am with you. I agree a fixed "shelf" would prevent side bowing.

reible wrote:Hi,

I don't have one of those planers so I'm not sure what kind of weight is involved but I do guess you have a fair amount of $$ tied up.

From the picture it looks like you have some pocket screws (3/side) into 1/2" material, perhaps some glue was added but to be honest I'd be worried that if you are rolling along and hit something on the floor the whole box is going to collapse putting the big $$ item in peril.

Also remember that the wood being planned will add weight plus there will be vibrations, farther stresses on stand.

I'd say keep the stand as is with a little reinforcement for some thing lighter (tool) or stoage, then either buy a metal stand (doesn't need to be dewalt) or make another version out of 3/4" plywood. If you want to use pocket screws again that is fine but you need a lot more of them. You will also want a face frame on/in the front opening.

My planner is mounted on a metal stand and is very stable, cost was about $80 (with locking casters) some years back. I don't recall where I got it but if you look up tool stands you will find a lot to pick from.

This would be your starting point

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW7350-Pla ... uctDetails

Anyway that is my opinion.....

Ed

You are correct about the build -- the top and bottom are glued and screwed to the sides with pocket screws; the back is screwed with 1" wood screws (4 per side, 3 each in the top and bottom). Perhaps this would be better for the tasks you suggest for the reasons you suggest...

algale wrote:Let's make sure we are both viewing the cabinet the same way. Even though the "front" (infeed) of the planer is facing the left in the photo, I consider the "front" of the cabinet to be the open part of the cabinet ME TOO where the drawer and lower cabinet door will eventually be located.

I assume you are suggesting running the 2 x ?s from left to right in the photo? If so, I am with you. I agree a fixed "shelf" would prevent side bowing.

Assumption accurate!;)

On my last trip to Lowes, I bought the supplies to make a flip-top stand for my planer and miter saw. Just like the one here: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49493 That plan called for 3/4" plywood. With the weight involved with even just a planer and no flip top, I don't think I'd want to go down to 1/2" ply. I think I agree with reible's suggestion to re-purpose the stand you made and build another one out of 3/4" ply.