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I don't think this is how one is supposed to have ones hand when using the table saw.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... racket.htm

freedomlives wrote:

I don't think this is how one is supposed to have ones hand when using the table saw.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/swd_exttablebracket.htm

That would depend upon how much farther he extends his left hand and the index finger thereupon. Also the right hand is protecting the thumb and the small finger is serving as a sacrificial lamb.

Not the way I would do it, but my way is likely considered less safe. I be a control freak and consider that the prime objective. Meet that and all those other scenarios become irrelevant(moot). Kick back occurs after losing control. Slicing flesh occurs after the brain loses control.

Go ahead, my thick skin is prepared.

[quote="JPG40504"]That would depend upon how much farther he extends his left hand and the index finger thereupon. Also the right hand is protecting the thumb and the small finger is serving as a sacrificial lamb.

Not the way I would do it, but my way is likely considered less safe. I be a control freak and consider that the prime objective. Meet that and all those other scenarios become irrelevant(moot). Kick back occurs after losing control. Slicing flesh occurs after the brain loses control.

Go ahead, my thick skin is prepared.]

You won't get much disagreement from me. When ripping a long piece, I usually start out with that same position but I change it as I progress through the cut. At least he is standing out of the "line of fire."

Okay, guys, please educate me. Yes, I think his left hand is too close to the blade also. But I don't see how he can change position toward the end of the cut when the infeed tables are in his way.

I'd probably clamp a featherboard to the table about where his left hand is, stand to the right side of the infeed tables, and finish pushing the stock through with a pushblock in my left hand. Also, I'd probably want additional outfeed support at the end of the cut.

Thanks for the advice,

Gary

I rarely use a push stick on workpieces that large.

I sometimes wonder how many of the kick back 'incidents' occur while using a push stick.

I would also be more inclined to position myself to the right of the rip fence so as to be able to 'handle' the workpiece after it passes the blade without reaching over the blade.

As long as the workpiece maintains contact with the fence(properly aligned to the blade) I think kick back is not likely(watch out for warped boards that ripping relieves internal stresses).

For something that large I would not have use the table extension. He's already using a roller stand on the other side, might as well use two.

For something smaller, push stick.

But that's just me.

Rip it on the band saw and alleviate the kick back issue entirely.

terrydowning wrote:Rip it on the band saw and alleviate the kick back issue entirely.

Quicker anyway. Less material loss in kerf.


Then worry about drift!:D

IMHO Drift is NOT an issue if your saw is set up properly and you use a sharp blade.

If you have drift,

First - check/change your blade Band Saw blades are way less expensive that TS blades
Second - do an alignment

freedomlives wrote:

I don't think this is how one is supposed to have ones hand when using the table saw.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... racket.htm

Doesn't matter where the hands are when the machine isn't turned on.