Shopsmith Forums

I have new Mark 7. The anti-kickbak device sticks and does not move up and out of the way when feeding wood. It causes the wood to stop and I'm not able to complete the cut. I thought about WD-40 or oil, but that would just gunk up with sawdust. Suggestions?


After reading several of the posted replies, I looked at the splitter to see that the pawl unit is too tightly fitted/riveted to allow it to move freely.

On Sunday, July 28 I sent an email to Customer Service at Shopsmith about this issue. Today, Monday, before noon, I received a call from Customer Service saying they were shipping a new upper guard, properly inspected; and gave me an RMA to return the one I have to their Quality Department. Thank you, Shopsmith.

And, thank you to all who suggested fixes for my problem.

On Wednesday, July 31, the replacement guard arrived. The washers on the new one are different from the ones on the old unit, and the prawls seem to function properly when I ran a 2 x 4 down along the saw blade. I put the old one back on and tried the same feed, but it just didn't work properly. The new upper guard sent by Shopsmith appears to fix the issue.

drs wrote:I have new Mark 7. The anti-kickbak device sticks and does not move up and out of the way when feeding wood. It causes the wood to stop and I'm not able to complete the cut. I thought about WD-40 or oil, but that would just gunk up with sawdust. Suggestions?

Are you referring to the anti-kickback pawls on the upper saw guard splitter? I noticed the same thing when I ordered a replacement splitter (my old one got bent) for the upper saw guard. As soon as I installed the new replacement splitter in the upper guard I noticed that the pawls would get stuck for no apparent reason I could ascertain. This never happened on my original upper saw guard splitter, which was from 2001.

I called customer service and got some NOT very good advice: loosen the pawls by pinching the pawls inward toward the splitter. The rivet holding the pawls promptly snapped and the pawls fell off. I thought about sending the whole damn thing back but didn't. I am now not using the pawls when I use the upper guard (although I tend not to use the upper guard now that I have the riving knife).

Frankly, I was surprised that customer service seemed relatively unconcerned with the defect in this safety device. I am saving up some money for a Shark Guard, which looks like a better design, has built in dust collection and has a more robust build. I think Shopsmith has dropped the ball on this one.

Good luck.

Al

After my recent first major kick-back incident, I reinstalled the upper saw guard to see if I could get used to it as I had never used it before (shame on me). I too noticed the pawls would sometimes stop forward progress of the workpiece. After some investigation, I found the problem happened when ripping only a small amount of width off of a board. The problem seems to be that when the right pawl is raised by the workpiece but the left pawl is not, the pin that ties them together becomes cocked and binds and then will not raise up any further. This is what was stopping forward movement for me. Seems like a dangerous situation. In an attempt to remedy this, I waxed all of the surfaces I could access with some JPW. This seemed to help but I'm still fearful of that cut I make right after the last little bit of wax wears away.

I have found that sometimes the pawls get turned over and will not let wood pass. Making sure the pawls are free to allow gravity to rotate the pawls so the proper side is down and they freely pass up and down through the slot, is all that's needed. Yes, a little oil will help. If you are afraid to use oil so close to wood, try graphite.

Something is wrong with the upper saw guard. Unless you are looking for excitement, I would not recommend operating with the upper saw guard.

The advice received from Customer Service is faulty. The pawls should dangle there and move freely. As Charlese has said, they can be rotated the wrong direction.

Running without the pawls (either type of guard) provides you with splitter action but NO KICKBACK PROTECTION. Sorta like buckling your seat belt before you get in and then sitting on it.

Talk to CS again.

algale wrote:Are you referring to the anti-kickback pawls on the upper saw guard splitter? I noticed the same thing when I ordered a replacement splitter (my old one got bent) for the upper saw guard. As soon as I installed the new replacement splitter in the upper guard I noticed that the pawls would get stuck for no apparent reason I could ascertain. This never happened on my original upper saw guard splitter, which was from 2001.

I called customer service and got some NOT very good advice: loosen the pawls by pinching the pawls inward toward the splitter. The rivet holding the pawls promptly snapped and the pawls fell off. I thought about sending the whole damn thing back but didn't. I am now not using the pawls when I use the upper guard (although I tend not to use the upper guard now that I have the riving knife).

Frankly, I was surprised that customer service seemed relatively unconcerned with the defect in this safety device. I am saving up some money for a Shark Guard, which looks like a better design, has built in dust collection and has a more robust build. I think Shopsmith has dropped the ball on this one.

Good luck.

Al

Could you replace the rivit with a screw?

JPG40504 wrote:Could you replace the rivit with a screw?

Not a screw but a bolt maybe. Comparing my old splitter/pawl assembly with the new, it appears they painted the washers that fit between the Paul's and the splitter (I can only find one). The old washers were not painted. Don't know if this might affect how well the pawls slip but it might.

algale wrote:Not a screw but a bolt maybe. Comparing my old splitter/pawl assembly with the new, it appears they painted the washers that fit between the Paul's and the splitter (I can only find one). The old washers were not painted. Don't know if this might affect how well the pawls slip but it might.

I need to explain the difference between a screw and a bolt(courtesy of MickyD the screw/bolt expert).

I have had to alter my own habit of calling a screw a bolt.

Most threaded fasteners are screws(both wood and machine screws).

A screw has a 'precision' machined surfaced head that accepts a 'tool' for turning.

A bolt either has a roughly made head or a head with no 'tool' surface.

So carriage 'bolts', lag 'bolts' or lag 'screws' (depending upon the quality of the head shape) and buildings are held together with bolts that have non-machined heads.

That is according the the 'standards' folks. Not necessarily common use however!:D

Even the manufacturers are inconsistent(especially those across the pacific).

[quote="JPG40504"]I need to explain the difference between a screw and a bolt(courtesy of MickyD the screw/bolt expert).

I have had to alter my own habit of calling a screw a bolt.

Most threaded fasteners are screws(both wood and machine screws).

A screw has a 'precision' machined surfaced head that accepts a 'tool' for turning.

A bolt either has a roughly made head or a head with no 'tool' surface.

So carriage 'bolts', lag 'bolts' or lag 'screws' (depending upon the quality of the head shape) and buildings are held together with bolts that have non-machined heads.]

Good points. Whatever it is called, I think it would be best not have threads along its entire surface as these would tend to get caught in the splitter.

algale wrote:Good points. Whatever it is called, I think it would be best not have threads along its entire surface as these would tend to get caught in the splitter.

Agreed! A screw like a saw handle retainer. Smooth shank outside, threaded internally. This small size would have to be (from a hollow rivit most likely).

I concur re the painted washers.

Those pawls MUST be free to move around the 'shaft'.