Shopsmith Forums

My son-in-law is director of a Bible camp in Iowa. They have a quilt auction each year as a fund raiser. Other items had been donated and auctioned off in a silent auction. But the last few years the "other items" have been auctioned off within the quilt auction itself. I believe it breaks things up a bit and a good idea. I turned 5 pizza cutter kits from Rockler. These are really nice cutters. 4" stainless steel blade with either chrome or bronze finish. Cutter assembly does unscrew from the handle so it can be placed in the dishwasher. I had ordered 2 cutters a few years ago and they have made improvements since then. Mainly the threaded insert is turned in with a hex wrench (included) rather than a slotted screwdriver.
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Left to right: Maple with cherry deconstructed celtic cross inlay; Ash from barn built in 1905; Redheart; Olive, and Maple with walnut celtic cross inlay.

This set of Royal twist pens from Penn State Industries:
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L to R: Pink and white acrylic; bamboo; tulipwood; blue/white acrylic; and purple/white acrylic.

This set of Compson click pens also from PSI:
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L to R: Bethleham olive; gold/black acrylic; red oak (from the camp campus); cocobolo; and paduck.

With around $200 invested in materials, the bid total for all was $1,385. The pizza cutters were nicely received.

Regaards,
Dwight

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Beautiful work! That redheart handle on the pizza cutter is especially striking.

I was thinking of a doing some similar inlays on a pepper mill. Did you create them by sandwiching sheets of the inlay wood into the blanks? If so, is the segmented blank simply glued together, or did you do something special because of the endgrain joints?

Just "thinking out loud" here .. I suppose that you could "core" the segmented blank once glued up, and then glue a full-length "dowel" back in for strength.

So how DID you do it?

The inlays were inserted like this young man did in the video:
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=mcafe ... or+college

I have made a number of pens using his technique with no known failures. For the pizza cutter handles I used the kerf width of my SS table saw combination blade. I felt the width of the inlay needed to be wider than the bandsaw kerf I use for pens. By not cutting all the way through the blank there is no problem getting pieces clamped back together. Just slide the inlay into the kerf and let the glue set. Key being that the inlay is ever so slightly narrower than the kerf. In this case I cut the inlay wood around 1/16" thick. I then setup the SS with a drum sander (100 grit sleeve) with the table parallel under the drum and sand the inlay a bit at a time (by raising the table--used adjustable stop collar for minute adjustments http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... collar.htm ) until it slides in the kerf with not very much pressure. I glue my inlays with 5 minute epoxy. I have found it best to wait overnight before turning for the epoxy to fully cure. Otherwise the heat from turning (especially if using a skew and riding the bevel) and sanding will cause the glue to fail. The inlay is ripped so long grain is glued against the mitered cut in the handle. Others do cut all the way through the blank and I have done it also, but getting the inlay and blank pieces glued back together with mitered joints bring on anxious moments. What would work OK if a glue up jig was made or one of the other fine members of this forum disclose their procedure. Pepper mill sounds like a good application for this type of inlay. Good luck.

Regards,
Dwight