dusty wrote:OKAY Tell what I do wrong to make it wander. Mine - just like the one you posted here from HF, is laying on my work bench. It was on its way to the trash can but if you can tell me what I do wrong, I might keep it.
It even came with a replacement cutter.
BTW - I have cut literally piles upon piles of pipe but with a bit more expensive Rigid pipe cutter. This thing from HF is not a Rigid even though it looks a lot like one.
I do not know what made yours wander.
Having successfully cut two tubes with one I can only describe my 'technique'.
Even with a 'better' pipe cutter I consider the initial start critical.
With the cutter just about to contact the pipe, the back rollers need be pressed against the pipe to insure the cutter will contact the opposite side at the correct position(both yer mark, and relative to the back rollers). The easiest way to do that is to position the rollers above the pipe and allow gravity to help.
Advance the cutter until it just barely contacts the pipe.
Keeping the cutter vertical, rotate the pipe and observe 'tracking'. Notice if it went off of the original cut mark. Loosen and shift cutter if needed and repeat.
Advance the cutter(again) very slightly. You want the starting groove as straight around the pipe as possible.
Gradually increase the cutter feed until deep enough to prevent 'wandering'.
With a SS tube(harder than most plumbing pipes) it shall come to pass that the torque required to advance the cutter and to rotate the pipe(probably rotating the cutter by this time) will become muscle development.
I may have succeeded since I did not have the pipe clamped down and was holding/feeding it by hand. This allowed the HF cutter to bite through very slowly.
I felt like godzilla for a couple of days afterward.
I did not look forward to the second tube!:D
So now you know why I jumped at a ridgid pipe cutter at a yard sale. I have yet to use it for this task. Will be interesting to see if it works better.
BTW I also just finished(last night) reassembling a Skilsaw(yes a powered hand saw that was made by Skil) that I needed to 'turn' a safety interlock button for(hey it
was woodworking) that I picked at the same yard sale. The thumb portion was broken off, but the stem remained, but was inside a hole. A PO had wedged a piece of hard carved wood in the hole thus holding the interlock in and thus eliminating its function. The switch became always 'active'(not power on, just always 'turn on able').
Third time was the charm. Made from a short piece of 3/8" red oak dowel. Third time I drilled the center hole(that fit over the stem)before turning the shaft od and the button. A 1/8" hole in what was to be turned down to an od of 0.225". Cutoff at top of thumb button. Lessons learned not the least of which was
respect for those who turn teeny tiny things!!! and that red oak is not a good material for doing so(porosity).