Shopsmith Forums

I recently inherited a shopsmith 10ER from my grandpa that is in really good condition. I honestly don't know if it was ever used. The only problems are that the original wiring is crumbling and the wood base is not in great shape (dry rot?)
It came with all of the extras, including the speed changer.

I read somewhere that the 1/2 horse motor is underpowered. I have a motor that I think might be a good alternative to the stock motor... But I wanted to get some professional opinions on it.

It's a Dayton single phase, 2hp, 115/230 motor. Here's a link to a picture of the nameplate:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/heg0yqhx280bs ... 6%20PM.jpg

Other than the size of the new motor, is there any reason that it would be a bad swap?

gurrenteed wrote:I recently inherited a shopsmith 10ER from my grandpa that is in really good condition. I honestly don't know if it was ever used. The only problems are that the original wiring is crumbling and the wood base is not in great shape (dry rot?)
It came with all of the extras, including the speed changer.

I read somewhere that the 1/2 horse motor is underpowered. I have a motor that I think might be a good alternative to the stock motor... But I wanted to get some professional opinions on it.

It's a Dayton single phase, 2hp, 115/230 motor. Here's a link to a picture of the nameplate:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/heg0yqhx280bstd/Photo%20Sep%2008%2C%201%2024%2036%20PM.jpg

Other than the size of the new motor, is there any reason that it would be a bad swap?

IIWM, I would use it and swap it only if 'I' came to that same conclusion. Two things come to mind as potential problems.

Shaft size vs motor pulley bore size.

Location of the start capacitor on the motor(typically on 'top') which becomes the bottom when mounted to a 10 E/ER(clearance to bench).

I've run quite a few ERs with the 1/2 HP motor, and, for the most part, you'll have enough power. The table saw is the most demanding, when it comes to power, especially dadoing in hard wood.

Like JPG said, shaft diameter and capacitor placement are important. However, if you need to, you can always cut a hole for the cap.

If you have metal legs, replacing the benchtop is just 2 pieces of 2X8 lumber. (I might consider 2X6s, and leave a gap for the capacitor.) Since I like my ERs a bit higher, I'd run 2X4s under the 2X6s and at the ends, too. Put an 18 inch piece, across the top of the metal legs, lay the 2X8s from leg to leg, and attach 2 more long 2X4s under the 2X8s, touching the short pieces at the ends.

steve

It is the correct RPM for the 10ER. The motor information shows it is a CW/CCW rotation motor. There should be a diagram some where on the motor showing what wires to connect if the rotation is in the wrong direction. If no diagram, you can determine the start and run winding wires with an ohm meter. Of course, I like the idea of having a reversible motor on any Shopsmith like the PowerPro offers now.

Wow. A lot of great info and feedback on this! Thanks!
I have a table saw with plenty of power now, so I know I won't need to worry about that. Maybe I will just hold off on replacing it until it proves to not be enough power (or if it even proves to not be enough.) No sense in doing extra work for nothing.
I planned on completely rebuilding the base out of some free solid wood doors I picked up. I'll make sure to leave clearance for a bigger motor in the future if needed.
Thanks again fellas.

Just so you know, general opinion around here, the ER is STILL the best lathe. By far.

Since you're going to be rebuilding the bench, make it heavy.

Oh, does yours have the Shopsmith metal legs and casters?

My first one had the plans-built base, but the rest have had the metal legs and casters. (Would anyone think I was too weird, if I said I had an ER bench as a coffee table? Well, I do!)

steve

skou wrote:Just so you know, general opinion around here, the ER is STILL the best lathe. By far.

Since you're going to be rebuilding the bench, make it heavy.

Oh, does yours have the Shopsmith metal legs and casters?

My first one had the plans-built base, but the rest have had the metal legs and casters. (Would anyone think I was too weird, if I said I had an ER bench as a coffee table? Well, I do!)

steve

No, you are not weird, but yer significant other is unusual if she tolerates it!:D

The bench on this one is wood with casters, but it doesn't look nice enough to be anything that was stock.
After carrying this thing up a flight of stairs, I know that the bench needs to be solid to support that mammoth. The 10er weighs a freaking ton!

The doors I have are 2" thick solid oak doors out of an older building. They are stout. I planned on using it on the bottom, 3 sides, and the top (leaving the front open for a drawers.) I have some metal support brackets that I plan to use for extra support. The new bench should be nearly bombproof when done.

And since this almost turned into a runaway SS while cleaning my garage the other day, I definitely need some locking or retractable casters.

I liked this design and was thinking about doing a steel version of it:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dv0qs71ioknkp ... 4%20PM.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/96qe4p4tgnycv ... 0%20PM.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mvmvy6q5uyhp1 ... 5%20PM.jpg
Having one handle to completely immobilize this beast sounds kind of appealing.

JPG40504 wrote:No, you are not weird, but yer significant other is unusual if she tolerates it!:D

My significant others are 3 cats. (OK, that alone makes me weird!)

But, female friends have said that they like the rustic, or "antique" look of it.

Yes, it's temporary, until I get my old FrankenSmith restored, and this one turned into a (semi)dedicated drill-press base.

But, I DO like the coffee table. I may find another ER for "parts."

Sorry for the thread-jack!:D

steve

skou wrote: . . .
Sorry for the thread-jack!:D

steve

Sweat not! You had 'help'!;)