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What kind of insulation do you use in the rafters of your shop?

Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 3:47 pm
by pilvr83
Hi,

I am new to this forum, just purchased my first Shopsmith last month. I also have a stand alone barn/garage that I will use for my shop once I get the proper electrical. I currently have one 15amp line that runs the shopsmith but nothing else.

What I am wondering, I have looked at a few other posts that show their shops looking at the background for insulation ideas. My garage has open rafters that are spaced 23" apart. I cannot locate 23" insulation with vapor barrier.

What do you recommend to insulate the rafter area? There is no attic.

If I am in the wrong area, please guide me!!

Thanks,

Greg

Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 4:18 pm
by sawmill
You should be able to use the 24 inch fiberglass as it is made for 24 inch centers. You will have to add something like paneling on the shop side to keep it from sagging over time. When I did mine I used 6 inch thick batts 24 wide and then I put up 1/2 foil faced 4 X 8 sheets of foam on the ceiling

Posted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 12:14 pm
by pilvr83
sawmill wrote:You should be able to use the 24 inch fiberglass as it is made for 24 inch centers. You will have to add something like paneling on the shop side to keep it from sagging over time. When I did mine I used 6 inch thick batts 24 wide and then I put up 1/2 foil faced 4 X 8 sheets of foam on the ceiling
The kind you installed, does it have a vapor backing? I found 24 inch with out a vapor barrier.

I did not think to use the foil faced 4 x 8 sheets, will look into that.

I notice you are up in Michigan, how warm does your shop stay on average?

Thanks,

Greg

Posted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 1:52 pm
by sawmill
Yes it does come with a vapor barrier. I can crank the temp up to 90 if I want and did so a few years ago when I painted a couple of tractors. It will stay at that temp for as long as I want. I heat it with hot water from our outside boiler. You can also get foam made to whatever thickness you want and precut to size so that it drops in between the tresses but id you have one off a little bit it will mess everything up. There is a place here that makes it and they will make it whatever thickness you want. I know of a couple of guys that had 14 inch thick blocks made. I figured with the foil faced stuff it would direct the heat back down. I keep my shop at 50 degree all winter long

Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 6:08 pm
by danr
pilvr83 wrote:Hi,

I am new to this forum, just purchased my first Shopsmith last month. I also have a stand alone barn/garage that I will use for my shop once I get the proper electrical. I currently have one 15amp line that runs the shopsmith but nothing else.

What I am wondering, I have looked at a few other posts that show their shops looking at the background for insulation ideas. My garage has open rafters that are spaced 23" apart. I cannot locate 23" insulation with vapor barrier.

What do you recommend to insulate the rafter area? There is no attic.

If I am in the wrong area, please guide me!!

Thanks,

Greg
A note about your electrical service: 15 amp will prove to be barely adequate. I suggest at least a 50 amp sub-panel as long as you're in the planning stage. Put electrical boxes everywhere that you 'may' have a need. They are cheap and easy at this point. And make sure that you have 20 amp service where your SS plugs.
Needs have a way of growing so plan ahead.
Dan

Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 6:43 pm
by billmayo
sawmill wrote:You should be able to use the 24 inch fiberglass as it is made for 24 inch centers. You will have to add something like paneling on the shop side to keep it from sagging over time. When I did mine I used 6 inch thick batts 24 wide and then I put up 1/2 foil faced 4 X 8 sheets of foam on the ceiling
Excellant method. I seem to remember that I needed a way for air to flow between the insulation and roof for a vaulted ceiling. I installed a ridge vent and screening along the soffit. I believe I needed at least 2" of air space between the roof and insulation. This helps prevent ice dams during snow and prevents mold from forming. It was a very long time ago. The paneling went directly on the rafters, not the joists. There were exposed joists/beams about 4' apart to keep the walls together.

Great Advice

Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 7:20 pm
by pilvr83
Thank you for the advice. I had not thought about the electrical much. Still have only enough to run the SS without any lights. Do need to upgrade the electrical.

Posted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 10:34 am
by garys
That is a standard size insulation. The Kraft facing is your vapor barrier.
http://www.menards.com/main/building-ma ... c-5780.htm

Any building supply dealer will have it in stock. Just buy the thickness you need.