Missing a Carriage Stop Ring

woodhead52 · Post by **woodhead52** » Wed Oct 09, 2013 4:35 pm

I'm cleaning up and servicing my new to me, 1993 Shopsmith which was upgraded to a 520. It looks like I'm missing a Carriage Stop Ring ( I hope that's the correct name for this part). I'm referring to the spacer that goes on the Way Tube separating and spacing the carriage and headstock.

Should I be looking on Ebay or Shopsmith.com?

Still feeling my way through this as I clean it and service it. Might be missing other things as well, but most of it seems to be here.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Oct 09, 2013 4:50 pm

Are ya looking for something that resembles a short, thin walled radiator hose?;)

joshh · Post by **joshh** » Wed Oct 09, 2013 5:52 pm

#189?
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/part ... xpview.htm

If so...
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/item ... =Find+Item

I bought mine through Shopsmith. They are the same price on eBay and I'd rather SS get the money.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Oct 09, 2013 6:23 pm

An Alternative!:)

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=68265&postcount=9

When sawing 'pipe' do not let it rotate!:eek:

The cutout allows them to be slipped on/off.

I like a pair(one on each tube).

Some folks like the rubber since they think it serves as a shock absorber if the raise to vertical sans locking the headstock first senior moment occurs.

Grossly inadequate for that function IMHO!;)

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Wed Oct 09, 2013 9:47 pm

When unpacking my new 510 I threw away my stop ring thinking it was part of the packing. Worked without it for years without knowing I should have one. When I found out on this forum it had two purposes - to prevent the headstock from hitting the carriage and centering the saw blade in the table insert.

So, in a larger order from Shopsmith, I ordered one and installed it. Later, I missed the versatility of not having it. So - sliced it lengthwise with a knife. Now I can use it or lose it depending on need.

Why lose it? -- Two reasons: To get closer to the tail when turning drawer knobs. (May also work for turning bottle stoppers)
Adjusting the saw blade to fit snug to the edge of my slowly disappearing panel sled. Even with the ring in place, my sled's edge became removed from my saw..

It serves it's purpose even with the slit! It is quite stable and won't squish. If I ever buy another, I'll slit it before putting it on. - - - A lot easier than removing an end and carriage, or headstock.

woodhead52 · Post by **woodhead52** » Wed Oct 09, 2013 11:02 pm

joshh wrote:#189?
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/part ... xpview.htm

If so...
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/item ... =Find+Item

I bought mine through Shopsmith. They are the same price on eBay and I'd rather SS get the money.

Thanks for the links JoshH, you probably saved me from ordering the wrong one. I had already looked up the Mark V part, not even considering it would be the wrong length. It's tough being a newbie. , hahaha Makes me glad for this forum.

JPG40504 wrote:An Alternative!:)

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=68265&postcount=9

When sawing 'pipe' do not let it rotate!:eek:

The cutout allows them to be slipped on/off.

I like a pair(one on each tube).

Some folks like the rubber since they think it serves as a shock absorber if the raise to vertical sans locking the headstock first senior moment occurs.

Grossly inadequate for that function IMHO!]

JPG40504 - Thanks for this helpful post. I had considered PVC, but before your post, was uncertain as to the exact width of the stop ring. I'll probably go with the SS part this time, but thanks to your link I went ahead and read the entire thread. It was pretty darn interesting even though I'm to new to this game and really not sure exactly what a Zero Clearance Insert is. That said, I'm a precision oriented person, so of course the discussion captured my interest. I also enjoy thinking outside of the box which is why I liked your PVC suggestion.

I appreciated your help and advice and I hope it keeps coming, because I'm sure my inexperience will produce plenty of questions and require plenty of advice.

woodhead52 · Post by **woodhead52** » Wed Oct 09, 2013 11:14 pm

charlese wrote:When unpacking my new 510 I threw away my stop ring thinking it was part of the packing. Worked without it for years without knowing I should have one. When I found out on this forum it had two purposes - to prevent the headstock from hitting the carriage and centering the saw blade in the table insert.

So, in a larger order from Shopsmith, I ordered one and installed it. Later, I missed the versatility of not having it. So - sliced it lengthwise with a knife. Now I can use it or lose it depending on need.

Why lose it? -- Two reasons: To get closer to the tail when turning drawer knobs. (May also work for turning bottle stoppers)
Adjusting the saw blade to fit snug to the edge of my slowly disappearing panel sled. Even with the ring in place, my sled's edge became removed from my saw..

It serves it's purpose even with the slit! It is quite stable and won't squish. If I ever buy another, I'll slit it before putting it on. - - - A lot easier than removing an end and carriage, or headstock.

Haha, Yeah sounds like something I might do. Might even be that I lost it when I moved the SS from where I bought it, as I disassembled it before caring it out of the seller's basement. Though, I'm pretty sure it was never there. When I get mine and can assess how sturdy it is I'll consider slitting it. I think I'll buy two, and put one on each way tube.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Oct 10, 2013 12:41 am

A zero clearance insert is typically a piece of mdf cut to the insert shape, secured by screws and the blade slot is created by slowly lowering the table so the blade creates its own slot.

It minimizes tearout, but is affected by blade height.

woodhead52 · Post by **woodhead52** » Thu Oct 10, 2013 8:03 am

JPG40504 wrote:A zero clearance insert is typically a piece of mdf cut to the insert shape, secured by screws and the blade slot is created by slowly lowering the table so the blade creates its own slot.

It minimizes tearout, but is affected by blade height.

Thanks, that clears that up nicely.

keakap · Post by **keakap** » Thu Oct 10, 2013 3:17 pm

[quote="JPG40504"]A...
I like a pair(one on each tube).

Some folks like the rubber since they think it serves as a shock absorber if the raise to vertical sans locking the headstock first senior moment occurs.

Grossly inadequate for that function IMHO!]

The laugh o the day.
Inadequate? Well it's long ago been relegated to the trash can, but how to describe one such "shock absorber" (I had been a subscriber to the myth)?
Hm, ya know what your long-sleeved shirt sleeves look like when you "roll 'em up" fer whatever? It is amazing how flexible those "hard" rubber collars are! That one was actually turned inside out.

But yes, they are useful and I also prefer one each tube. I figger if I'm a wee bit too aggressive sliding the carriage over the two will handle it. With one there can be a tad variance.